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Pushing water out radiator under boost help

 
Old 12-05-2015, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak2685 View Post
I buy it 75 gallons at a time and I get it from the pump. I test it every time I get it to make sure its consistent. This isnt the issue here.
Never said it was. Good luck!
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Old 12-05-2015, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mekkadon View Post
Never said it was. Good luck!
Yea I know. Sorry if I came off wrong.
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Old 12-05-2015, 11:08 PM
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Has 22 degrees at the very top. Going to back it down to 20 and see what happens.
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Old 12-06-2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak2685 View Post
Has 22 degrees at the very top. Going to back it down to 20 and see what happens.
Put a pressure tester on the coolant system for the heck of it. Pumped to 20# and holds pretty steady. Leaks down but really slow. Normal right?
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Old 12-06-2015, 03:40 PM
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Lifting heads, Bending cranks.. Sounds like aggressive tuning to me. What does your mid range timing look like?

Last edited by oscs; 12-06-2015 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 12-06-2015, 03:44 PM
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It could be E75-80 and it wouldn't make a difference. Your fuel is not the issue

Last edited by oscs; 12-06-2015 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 12-06-2015, 04:07 PM
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Old 12-06-2015, 04:38 PM
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I was doing some thinking a second ago with a buddy and he pointed out that my current coolant overflow is useless. Its actually a "catch can" type that has both fittings at the top so its not actually a recovery tank so when the coolant gets hot, radiator pressurized like normal ect it just flows into the can and not back to the radiator when cold. Hence why it just fills up and eventually overflows. Think this is the ultimate problem?

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Old 12-06-2015, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak2685 View Post
What do you mean by hot? i think timing is 21 degrees at the upper RPM's
21*? That's it? There's more left in it!
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:37 AM
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I have forgotten almost all of my g/cyl knowledge, but that looks like a pretty stout timing map.

...and coming from me.......that could be an expensive way to live.
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Old 12-07-2015, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak2685 View Post
I was doing some thinking a second ago with a buddy and he pointed out that my current coolant overflow is useless. Its actually a "catch can" type that has both fittings at the top so its not actually a recovery tank so when the coolant gets hot, radiator pressurized like normal ect it just flows into the can and not back to the radiator when cold. Hence why it just fills up and eventually overflows. Think this is the ultimate problem?

Yeah, that will not allow it to be pulled back into the rad.

& uhhuh, it shouldn't lose pressure on a pressure check if the tester has a good seal & Unless you can visually see a place the coolant is coming out it is probably internal somewhere. I have been known to yank the plugs & poke a stethoscope into the spark plug of every cylinder & listen for any sounds of air or bubbling while performing the pressure test. You can hear it, even if very slight, providing it is quiet around you.

Did you check all your plugs yet for signs of burning coolant?
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
Yeah, that will not allow it to be pulled back into the rad.

& uhhuh, it shouldn't lose pressure on a pressure check if the tester has a good seal & Unless you can visually see a place the coolant is coming out it is probably internal somewhere. I have been known to yank the plugs & poke a stethoscope into the spark plug of every cylinder & listen for any sounds of air or bubbling while performing the pressure test. You can hear it, even if very slight, providing it is quiet around you.

Did you check all your plugs yet for signs of burning coolant?
I didn't hear any noises or see any leaks. It seems as if the tester was leaking slightly. You could bump the piece that attaches to the radiator and it would let a spirt of air out so it couldn't have been a tight seel. I started the car after having the tester pumped up twice for like 30 minutes and it started fine. No moisture out of the exhaust ect.

As far as plugs, the only 2 I have pulled so far is 3 and 5 and I posted them. I'll pull the rest tonight. What would a plug that's been burning coolant look like?
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown06 View Post
I have forgotten almost all of my g/cyl knowledge, but that looks like a pretty stout timing map.

...and coming from me.......that could be an expensive way to live.
Yea I can't say I know either. I'm going to take 2 degrees out across the board regardless and see what happens.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:52 AM
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If you are burning coolant the insulator will be dis-colored the shade of the coolant you are using.
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
If you are burning coolant the insulator will be dis-colored the shade of the coolant you are using.
Makes sense. I'll pull the rest today and check. I really don't think it's burning coolant though.
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:44 AM
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If not, it's the lack of a sealed coolant return reservoir. Did you test the cap or get a new one.
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
If not, it's the lack of a sealed coolant return reservoir. Did you test the cap or get a new one.
Would I need a sealed reservoir instead of a vented one? The stock one is vented. I did replace the cap and it didn't leak from the 3-4 pulls I made yesterday so that part is solved.
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:56 PM
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Return is more important than sealed. Just so you're not losing coolant. It's not cheap anymore.
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:56 PM
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You need a vent-air needs to displace the water
that res. looks like a trans catch can
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Old 12-07-2015, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by forcd ind View Post
You need a vent-air needs to displace the water
that res. looks like a trans catch can
It is a catch can. I don't know how I built the whole car and overlooked that! It was on the stock motor setup too and had basically the same problem with coolant. Go figure!
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