Pushing water out radiator under boost help
12-07-2015, 03:40 PM
#62
That should be adequate. Just fill it 1/3 full to begin with & see how much the level changes when hot. Then add accordingly.
12-07-2015, 03:51 PM
#64
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That's what I was getting at. That kind of set-up would work if the inlet runs to the bottom of the tank & the vent was at the top. It just needs to be of adequate volume for how full you want/need the coolant system to be.
That should be adequate. Just fill it 1/3 full to begin with & see how much the level changes when hot. Then add accordingly.
That should be adequate. Just fill it 1/3 full to begin with & see how much the level changes when hot. Then add accordingly.
12-08-2015, 02:21 AM
#69
Well, for starters, if it is a scaled tune we need to see a histogram to see what cells it is actually hitting.
Also, OP your doing this *** backwards. Starting at big timing numbers and knocking it down a couple at a time till it quits pushing water will never get you anywhere.
I'd probably knock about 8* out that thing everywhere and then work up.
12-08-2015, 06:38 AM
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Here's a chance to learn something:
Well, for starters, if it is a scaled tune we need to see a histogram to see what cells it is actually hitting.
Also, OP your doing this *** backwards. Starting at big timing numbers and knocking it down a couple at a time till it quits pushing water will never get you anywhere.
I'd probably knock about 8* out that thing everywhere and then work up.
Well, for starters, if it is a scaled tune we need to see a histogram to see what cells it is actually hitting.
Also, OP your doing this *** backwards. Starting at big timing numbers and knocking it down a couple at a time till it quits pushing water will never get you anywhere.
I'd probably knock about 8* out that thing everywhere and then work up.
That being said, I don't want to come across as defensive and ignorant. I DO know there is a obvious problem with the resivore that's currently on it. I'm already addressing that.
Can someone point me to how the plugs would indicate heads lifting of a harmful situation? Just trying to learn here is all. I tooked the motor apart when I bent the factory crank making 938. It had dang near the same tune and timing ect as current and I found no signs if detonation of the heads/pistons ect. I lowered compression .4 from that setup as well.
Like I said, not trying to start a argument. Just trying to learn.
12-08-2015, 10:10 AM
#71
Problem is you’ve more than likely already done the damage. Re-tuning the car at this point isn’t going to correct that problem. I’m all for getting a good coolant recovery setup, but I wouldn’t bother running the car without at least checking the HG’s. If you catch it early it will be much less work/$. I was in a very similar situation and instead of stopping and correcting the leaky head, I choose to run the car again. Torched the head and deck the 2nd run the next track outing. Ruined a great alum block and a nice head.
Unless Tick Performance went with you to the track and tuned the car by the plug readings… then I don’t see how the tune would be considered complete. Tuning for peak dyno numbers, and trying to run that tune with real world loads at the strip usually ends badly. (though I’m not claiming that’s what happened). Usually a shop will get the customer a nice dyno number and then detune the car for a safe “Street tune” before giving it back. I always go overly conservative when tuning someone else’s car. Then tell them to finish the tune by bumping timing slowly, watching plugs and MPH at their own risk.
What heat range plug again? You can tell by the pic’s that your plugs have too much run time on them to get an accurate fuel reading. You need to install a new set, make a pass, and pull them immediately after to get a solid read on plugs. Going by the threads/strap you are on the edge heat/timing wise, as others have said. Personally on my turbo setups I like to see about 1 thread of heat in the body and the heat mark about 1/2 way down the strap, still well away from the bend. I’d drop 8-10* out of the tune across the board above 5psi or so. Get a good plug read after a pass and go from there.
Unless Tick Performance went with you to the track and tuned the car by the plug readings… then I don’t see how the tune would be considered complete. Tuning for peak dyno numbers, and trying to run that tune with real world loads at the strip usually ends badly. (though I’m not claiming that’s what happened). Usually a shop will get the customer a nice dyno number and then detune the car for a safe “Street tune” before giving it back. I always go overly conservative when tuning someone else’s car. Then tell them to finish the tune by bumping timing slowly, watching plugs and MPH at their own risk.
What heat range plug again? You can tell by the pic’s that your plugs have too much run time on them to get an accurate fuel reading. You need to install a new set, make a pass, and pull them immediately after to get a solid read on plugs. Going by the threads/strap you are on the edge heat/timing wise, as others have said. Personally on my turbo setups I like to see about 1 thread of heat in the body and the heat mark about 1/2 way down the strap, still well away from the bend. I’d drop 8-10* out of the tune across the board above 5psi or so. Get a good plug read after a pass and go from there.
12-08-2015, 10:29 AM
#72
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Problem is you’ve more than likely already done the damage. Re-tuning the car at this point isn’t going to correct that problem. I’m all for getting a good coolant recovery setup, but I wouldn’t bother running the car without at least checking the HG’s. If you catch it early it will be much less work/$. I was in a very similar situation and instead of stopping and correcting the leaky head, I choose to run the car again. Torched the head and deck the 2nd run the next track outing. Ruined a great alum block and a nice head.
Unless Tick Performance went with you to the track and tuned the car by the plug readings… then I don’t see how the tune would be considered complete. Tuning for peak dyno numbers, and trying to run that tune with real world loads at the strip usually ends badly. (though I’m not claiming that’s what happened). Usually a shop will get the customer a nice dyno number and then detune the car for a safe “Street tune” before giving it back. I always go overly conservative when tuning someone else’s car. Then tell them to finish the tune by bumping timing slowly, watching plugs and MPH at their own risk.
What heat range plug again? You can tell by the pic’s that your plugs have too much run time on them to get an accurate fuel reading. You need to install a new set, make a pass, and pull them immediately after to get a solid read on plugs. Going by the threads/strap you are on the edge heat/timing wise, as others have said. Personally on my turbo setups I like to see about 1 thread of heat in the body and the heat mark about 1/2 way down the strap, still well away from the bend. I’d drop 8-10* out of the tune across the board above 5psi or so. Get a good plug read after a pass and go from there.
Unless Tick Performance went with you to the track and tuned the car by the plug readings… then I don’t see how the tune would be considered complete. Tuning for peak dyno numbers, and trying to run that tune with real world loads at the strip usually ends badly. (though I’m not claiming that’s what happened). Usually a shop will get the customer a nice dyno number and then detune the car for a safe “Street tune” before giving it back. I always go overly conservative when tuning someone else’s car. Then tell them to finish the tune by bumping timing slowly, watching plugs and MPH at their own risk.
What heat range plug again? You can tell by the pic’s that your plugs have too much run time on them to get an accurate fuel reading. You need to install a new set, make a pass, and pull them immediately after to get a solid read on plugs. Going by the threads/strap you are on the edge heat/timing wise, as others have said. Personally on my turbo setups I like to see about 1 thread of heat in the body and the heat mark about 1/2 way down the strap, still well away from the bend. I’d drop 8-10* out of the tune across the board above 5psi or so. Get a good plug read after a pass and go from there.
12-08-2015, 10:32 AM
#73
I concur with what is being said.
I don't know what Tick is doing in regards to other aspects of the tune. Lack of information at this point.
I already mentioned the temp variance & that needs to be checked out in the overal spark adder. While his main timing table may show 21* the spark adder vs IAT could be even more. We need to see the actual log, not a timing table. If running a MAP retard, it may not have quite the effect if IAT is adding a portion or more back in.
Number 7 May be brown not just from heat but corrosion. I have noticed that in the past on leaking HG's. The vapor burned in the chamber impregnates the ground strap. It oxidizes the metal & appears rusts very quickly. I've noticed good speclings of rust on plugs left on the perimeter of the plug but it is never as severe as the ground strap, however. I think the direct current in the ground strap has a lot to do with it.
I don't know what Tick is doing in regards to other aspects of the tune. Lack of information at this point.
I already mentioned the temp variance & that needs to be checked out in the overal spark adder. While his main timing table may show 21* the spark adder vs IAT could be even more. We need to see the actual log, not a timing table. If running a MAP retard, it may not have quite the effect if IAT is adding a portion or more back in.
Number 7 May be brown not just from heat but corrosion. I have noticed that in the past on leaking HG's. The vapor burned in the chamber impregnates the ground strap. It oxidizes the metal & appears rusts very quickly. I've noticed good speclings of rust on plugs left on the perimeter of the plug but it is never as severe as the ground strap, however. I think the direct current in the ground strap has a lot to do with it.
Last edited by gtfoxy; 12-08-2015 at 10:42 AM.
12-08-2015, 10:39 AM
#74
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I concur with what is being said.
I don't know what Tick is doing in regards to other aspects of the tune. Lack of information at this point.
I already mentioned the temp variance & that needs to be checked out in the overal spark adder. While his main timing table may show 21* the spark adder vs IAT could be even more. We need to see the actual log, not a timing table. If running a MAP retard may not have quite the effect of IAT is adding a portion of more back in.
I don't know what Tick is doing in regards to other aspects of the tune. Lack of information at this point.
I already mentioned the temp variance & that needs to be checked out in the overal spark adder. While his main timing table may show 21* the spark adder vs IAT could be even more. We need to see the actual log, not a timing table. If running a MAP retard may not have quite the effect of IAT is adding a portion of more back in.
12-08-2015, 12:22 PM
#78
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Just out of curiosity but the last two times I took the car out I was street racing with snout 6-8 2nd-4th gear pulls dang near back to back. Would this have caused the excessive heat in the plug you all are seeing?
12-08-2015, 01:07 PM
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Just as a quick check. Attach the radiator pressure tester to the radiator. Pressurize to 15-16 PSI. Start the engine and bring it up to 2000 RPM. If the pressure is jumping up and down on the gauge, you have a head gasket leak.