Pushing water out radiator under boost help
12-09-2015, 08:53 AM
#101
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That's on the gas scale, sorry for the confusion.
I'm installing the larger overflow box this weekend and am also going to re-torque the heads to 85ftlbs for good measure. I never did the second pass after the heat cycles.
I'm installing the larger overflow box this weekend and am also going to re-torque the heads to 85ftlbs for good measure. I never did the second pass after the heat cycles.
12-09-2015, 09:56 AM
#104
That is not how the black goo comes about. I did the same thing, PTFE everything, cleaned out the tank, and new pumps but the goo was always there. It has to do with gas additives that come out of solution (I think Chevron is the worst). Idling and short trips seem to make it accumulate faster but it will still do it with highway driving it just takes longer (my car is a daily). Definitely worth checking injectors if you are going to have to take the heads off anyways. You don't need any special inspection tools methods to see it either; it will be obvious if you have a problem. Since your AFR was good it would be more of a just in case check.
12-09-2015, 10:04 AM
#105
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That is not how the black goo comes about. I did the same thing, PTFE everything, cleaned out the tank, and new pumps but the goo was always there. It has to do with gas additives that come out of solution (I think Chevron is the worst). Idling and short trips seem to make it accumulate faster but it will still do it with highway driving it just takes longer (my car is a daily). Definitely worth checking injectors if you are going to have to take the heads off anyways. You don't need any special inspection tools methods to see it either; it will be obvious if you have a problem. Since your AFR was good it would be more of a just in case check.
12-09-2015, 10:14 AM
#106
Did you say you don't have your back ports tied into the cooling system?
12-09-2015, 10:21 AM
#107
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A leak down may not be enough pressure. It is comparatively low compared to actual cylinder pressure, but it's the first thing I would have done along with a coolant system pressure check. Both at the same time.
Did you say you don't have your back ports tied into the cooling system?
Did you say you don't have your back ports tied into the cooling system?
I DO have the rear steam ports tied in.
This whole instance baffles me as the car runs completely fine under all circumstances from cruising around to WOT and doesn't get hot, even on the night when I made the WOT pulls multiple times back to back.
12-09-2015, 10:47 AM
#108
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A leak down may not be enough pressure. It is comparatively low compared to actual cylinder pressure, but it's the first thing I would have done along with a coolant system pressure check. Both at the same time.
Did you say you don't have your back ports tied into the cooling system?
Did you say you don't have your back ports tied into the cooling system?
12-09-2015, 12:22 PM
#109
That's a leak down. You need two gauges, an air regulator & enough air capacity to maintain pressure. You set your first gauge to 100psi then hook it to the cylinder. What the second gauge reads after the reg. is reading in a 100% scale of the inlet pressure, providing it (inlet pressure) remains stable. If it reads 90psi you have 10% leak down.
Do every cylinder to see trends.
Having the leak on the other hose would cause the issue, now you are just double checking stuff.
Add: Did you set the pressure on the gauge prior to starting it? That's really not the way to do it. You want to just put the coolant gauge on & let it warm up. Let it get warmed up & see what the pressure is. Then go from there.
Do every cylinder to see trends.
Having the leak on the other hose would cause the issue, now you are just double checking stuff.
Add: Did you set the pressure on the gauge prior to starting it? That's really not the way to do it. You want to just put the coolant gauge on & let it warm up. Let it get warmed up & see what the pressure is. Then go from there.
Last edited by gtfoxy; 12-09-2015 at 12:35 PM.
12-09-2015, 12:30 PM
#110
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That's a leak down. You need two gauges, an air regulator & enough air capacity to maintain pressure. You set your first gauge to 100psi then hook it to the cylinder. What the second gauge reads after the reg. is reading in a 100% scale of the inlet pressure, providing it (inlet pressure) remains stable. If it reads 90psi you have 10% leak down.
Do every cylinder to see trends.
Having the leak on the other hose would cause the issue, now you are just double checking stuff.
Do every cylinder to see trends.
Having the leak on the other hose would cause the issue, now you are just double checking stuff.
12-09-2015, 12:39 PM
#111
Question is whether it would blow past the rings before making its way past the gasket. With the amount of coolant your saying you are seeing it sounds like the leak (if there is one) is pretty big. Pressurising the cylinder would probably be a good starting point.
12-09-2015, 12:40 PM
#112
You can do that. Only thing is you don't see the pressure drop.
If it's bad enough it will make it past the fire ring. Otherwise it may take engine temp & pressure to make it go.
12-10-2015, 09:40 AM
#119
Blown's video should be called "Plight of the 4 bolt head LS Owner"
I wonder how many enthusiasts have had their build budget blown to hell over watching that video. lol
I wonder how many enthusiasts have had their build budget blown to hell over watching that video. lol