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Looking for solutions to heatsoaked IAT with Holley mid-rise intake + 417 intercooler

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Old 12-26-2015, 03:54 PM
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Default Looking for solutions to heatsoaked IAT with Holley mid-rise intake + 417 intercooler

Title sort of states it. But to keep full information here:
  • Engine will be rebuilt to stock 5.3L engine(LM7)
  • Turbo is VS Racing 78/75inducer .96ar T4
  • Intake is going to be Holley mid-rise intake(all aluminum)
  • 417 water to air intercooler IN Holley intake.
  • Intake Air Temperature(IAT) will be a threaded gm cyclone version

My understanding is the IAT sensor has to be after the intercooler. Which in my case basically puts it in the intake toward the bottom half under the intercooler.

My further understanding is the IAT will suffer heat soak is I install it into the aluminum intake whether I weld a bung to the intake or drill/tap the intake.

So what creative way can I fight heat soak of the IAT?

Can I do a plastic fitting in the intake to hold the IAT then do a two wire bulkhead fitting to get the wiring out?
Old 12-26-2015, 06:59 PM
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If it's getting hot I would want it to be pulling timing.. I really think you're worrying about a non issue. But let others chime in
Old 12-26-2015, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SteenH
If it's getting hot I would want it to be pulling timing.. I really think you're worrying about a non issue. But let others chime in
I'm in the middle of building up the engine/turbo setup.

My research here showed many claiming heat soak of IATs that are screwed into metal intakes.

On the intake, I'm going to be powder coating it so I need to figure out my IAT mount sooner than later.
Old 12-27-2015, 03:18 AM
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It wouldnt be too hard to make a threaded sleeve of delrin or nylon 66. maybe add a distibuter hold down type tab to secure it.
Old 12-27-2015, 08:21 AM
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Then put it in the boost plumbing same way everyone else does.
Old 12-27-2015, 11:03 AM
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^the sensor needs to be post intercooler..... this is what brings up the issue. OP, fwiw i just drilled and tapped a hole in the dead center of the hi ram base
Old 12-27-2015, 11:37 AM
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In my experience the only time you will see much of any evidence of real heat soak is at idle after an extended period of time. The body of most IAT's are brass which will hold heat, but not much is trasftered to the wired resistor. As asoon as air passes it, it will read correctly. Not sure what the latency of this in a worst case secario would be (idle in staging-immediatly makign a pass there after) but I bet it would me minimal.

They also may plastic bodied IAT's which would in theory nullify this issue.
Old 12-27-2015, 12:02 PM
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Here is an example of the setup I will be running next to a truck intake:


No idea on what sensors/switches are on the back. Guess is IAT at very bottom, MAP on right, and purge valve on left.

Unfortunately, I do need vacuum for brakes.

Originally Posted by coltboostin
In my experience the only time you will see much of any evidence of real heat soak is at idle after an extended period of time. The body of most IAT's are brass which will hold heat, but not much is trasftered to the wired resistor. As asoon as air passes it, it will read correctly. Not sure what the latency of this in a worst case secario would be (idle in staging-immediatly makign a pass there after) but I bet it would me minimal.

They also may plastic bodied IAT's which would in theory nullify this issue.
This is going to be a daily driven vehicle with hopefully 10-20% of the time spent off road in rocks(ie technical, off-idle) There is no mud, rock racing/bouncing, etc.

Tanus, That is something I considered. Buy a 1/2" to 3/8" nylon adapter to mount it.
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Lil'John
Tanus, That is something I considered. Buy a 1/2" to 3/8" nylon adapter to mount it.
or just a piece of pipe. Go to home depot with the sensor and find some black plumbing or pvc pipe that your sensor will not quite slide in. Tap it, I'd taper the inner threads to achieve the desired protrusion of the sensor and the outer threads to aid the sealing and fastening. Could also probably find something in the sprinkler parts aisle. Which, now that I think of it, might be better choice cause its a more malleable material.

If you wanted to over-engineer it you could add some cooling fins on the manifold in that area or somehow added to the nut/wrench part of the sensor. Probably a waste of time but it would look cool



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