6.0/7875/TR6060 '06 BMW 325i E90 Build
#1
6.0/7875/TR6060 '06 BMW 325i E90 Build
Decided it was time to build a new car. I wanted a platform with a newer body style, 4 door, decent handling, not commonly swapped and could be built correctly to be daily driven. The goal with this car is to be a super responsive daily that will do great burnouts when I need it to and be mild enough for anyone to drive.
Motor setup is pretty common parts. Megasquirt 3x, Gen4 iron 6.0, ls2 pistons, cheapo trickflow cam and springs, seimens 80lb injectors, vs7875 turbo. Transmission is a tr6060 out of a 2010 Cts-v with an ls7 clutch. Stock BMW rear end to start.
I found a 2006 BMW 325i with a locked motor for a great price. From my research I have not found anyone who has swapped one of these yet. Seems like most people are too scarred of the fully integrated canbus system. I would like to keep the factory HVAC working and will tackle that project when the time comes.
Lots of photos to follow.
Motor setup is pretty common parts. Megasquirt 3x, Gen4 iron 6.0, ls2 pistons, cheapo trickflow cam and springs, seimens 80lb injectors, vs7875 turbo. Transmission is a tr6060 out of a 2010 Cts-v with an ls7 clutch. Stock BMW rear end to start.
I found a 2006 BMW 325i with a locked motor for a great price. From my research I have not found anyone who has swapped one of these yet. Seems like most people are too scarred of the fully integrated canbus system. I would like to keep the factory HVAC working and will tackle that project when the time comes.
Lots of photos to follow.
Last edited by snapc3; 01-02-2016 at 04:23 PM.
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Homer_Simpson (07-07-2022)
#2
Did things a little backwards and built the turbo kit before I even had engine mounts. I figured it would be easier to build mounts to clear the hot side rather than the other way around.
Passenger side is a truck manifold forward and down with the first runner chopped off and replaced with a 2.5" stainless elbow. Plumed the removed runner back into the elbow and dropped on a T4 flange.
Driver side was a little more tricky to clear the steering and ac/heater lines. I used a C6 manifold and chopped off the stock flange, milled the runners at a slight angle, then welded on a new flange. The result was a C6 manifold that was about an inch closer the block but still had good plug access.
Cross over is 2" and passes under the oil pan in front of the cross member.
Wastegate has not been placed yet. Starter and Ac compressor need to be installed to check fitment.
Passenger side is a truck manifold forward and down with the first runner chopped off and replaced with a 2.5" stainless elbow. Plumed the removed runner back into the elbow and dropped on a T4 flange.
Driver side was a little more tricky to clear the steering and ac/heater lines. I used a C6 manifold and chopped off the stock flange, milled the runners at a slight angle, then welded on a new flange. The result was a C6 manifold that was about an inch closer the block but still had good plug access.
Cross over is 2" and passes under the oil pan in front of the cross member.
Wastegate has not been placed yet. Starter and Ac compressor need to be installed to check fitment.
#4
The motor I bought did not have any accessory brackets so I decided to just build them to fit the bay the best. I also wanted to reuse the stock BMW power steering pump so they entire system would stay stock. I drew up some flanges and checked their fitment with a few paper mockups. I still need to build a few spacers and get an idler pulley.
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#8
I am using a TR6060 from a 2010 Cts-v which normally uses a remote mounted shifter. I needed to have the shifter basically mounted on the tail housing to line up with the stock BMW shifter location. I started by building an offset lever similar to what is used in a t56 and buying a cheap t56 short shifter. I built an adapter plate that would mount to the transmission and allow the shifter to be mounted on the tail housing.
It took a couple iterations to get the geometry right but now it shifts great.
It took a couple iterations to get the geometry right but now it shifts great.
#11
I think it will fit 255s without an issue. Haven't found much information about the strength of the rear end. It is an open diff and there are no reasonably priced limited slip options. I plan on running it to get the car going then swapping it out with an 8.8" irs or something similar.
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