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97 S10 with 6.0, 224 Isky JFR cam, S482 turbo, Powerglide, 9" rear

Old 06-11-2016, 07:27 PM
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Got a little bit done since last weekend. Installed the back window and installed the dual Bosch 044 pump setup. I need to get a couple of fittings and more fuel line for the inlet of one of the pumps. I am most likely going to get a couple of different fittings to straighten up the lines from the pumps.



Old 06-26-2016, 06:18 PM
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Worked a little more this weekend and got the seat mounts built and installed. Also finished up the fuel pump mechanicals. I decided to run a Hobbs switch for the 2nd pump, so that meant installing a 1 way valve on that one. And I finally started pulling some wires this afternoon. Last weekend I worked on building the main electrical panel. I'll post some pictures of that when its finished.



Old 06-26-2016, 10:07 PM
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What did you use for the 1 way valve? Looking good!
Old 06-27-2016, 12:04 PM
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Getting it done and looking good.
I got a Kirkey seat and some belts for you, call me.
Old 06-27-2016, 01:46 PM
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The one way valve came with one of the pumps I bought from One Fast Z06 here. Not sure of the brand. It goes into the leaving side of the pump and has an AN fitting on the other end. Its the black fitting on the bottom pump in the picture.

And I called you but no answer. I have 2 new Kirkey seats with covers, but I might be interested in the belts if they are what I need and the dates are good.
Old 07-03-2016, 04:42 PM
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I finally finished the dash layout. Now the wiring details and finishing the master controls panel. Man I hate wiring. LOL The ARC 8 switch panel on the dash goes to the 8 relay panel on the board.



Old 07-03-2016, 08:46 PM
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Coming out sick man, keep it up.
Old 07-04-2016, 10:07 AM
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Thanks. If it wasn't so damm hot and humid here, and me being older now, it would get done faster. I hope to get the engine back this week. Then I can start building all the turbo stuff. I have no clue what I am doing there but hell, you never know. It might run awesome. LOL
Old 07-04-2016, 02:00 PM
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Love this truck. This new build is a killer in the making.
Old 07-04-2016, 08:04 PM
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Thanks. I am looking for a class to race in as well. Thought about the TEX275 class, but they have a 80mm turbo limit, I have the 82mm and they are freaking fast LOL. Mid to upper 4 second 1/8 mile to actually be competitive enough to get a check. I don't think I can afford this class right now. So I might run some truck shootouts. Going to be tough with a stock bottom end but I might get lucky. I'll have to get the suspension sorted out too. Right now its on stock shocks and springs. Ill most likely need another rear gear too, the 3.90 may be too much for it with the powerglide.

Just bought a set of up and forward headers. Now looking at the cam. The TU2 I have looks like its too big for my needs. I'm new to the turbos so getting advice from others is helpful.
Old 07-05-2016, 09:59 PM
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Don't take this the wrong way, but I think your a lot like me. Your wanting to change the cam, and it's not even in the truck yet. Maybe learn from my mistakes, and get it running first. I know what your saying, trust me, but, lots of guys have had good luck with that cam. I think with your turbo, it might be a good combo, but your only going to know, if you run it. I looked at that cam for quite awhile before I finally got what I have now.
Old 07-06-2016, 06:54 AM
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Im not. But after talking to guys that knkw a lot about tubos and cams, they both said the same exact thing. Too much overlap which will allow the exhaust gases to get into mix with the intake which could cause detonation. I will most likely have back pressure issues. Even speedinc says its really now good for my combo. I need more cubes, higher rpm and maybe another turbo. Its made for over 1200 rwhp. The TU1 will make up to 1000. And with my SBE thats more than I need to be safe. Id like to hit 1000 but.....

Basically it will run with it. But it wont run like it should. Ill also have to be very careful and watch for low rpm detonation due to the mixing.

With all of this said, yea, it may get built with it and just aee what happens. It may work well enough until I get really hooked on grudge type racing and buy a rotating assy for it. Then it could stay in it.
Old 07-06-2016, 10:03 AM
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Love the build! How much boost do you plan to give it, or expected power level?

You guys talking about the Speed Inc cams caught my eye as I currently run the TU1 cam in a stock 5.3L and its seen boost from a 76, 80, and 88mm. It seems to work well but I think it could use a little more cam.

Reading your comments makes me think as I have a forged 5.3L (.030 over) sitting on the floor waiting to go in and I put a TU2 cam in it. I plan to feed it with a billet S480, rev it higher, and will be used with a hi-ram intake manifold. Interesting they say the TU2 may be too much cam for a 6.0L with a S482? I would think with a Glide and 3.90 gears it wouldn't be in low RPM much at all. I have a TH400 and 3.45 gear and its hardly ever below 3k RPM.
Old 07-06-2016, 01:16 PM
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I am trying to keep the revs at or below 7k due to the stock crank, rods and hydraulic lifters.

As for boost. Not sure yet. I want to be around 6-700 whp on the street, but I'll need to be at 900 or more for the truck shootouts and grudge type racing.

More than likely it is getting built with the cam I have. I'll learn the systems and tuning for a little while and in the meantime have a cam built. This way I have the actual truck weight ( which I wont have until its running and at the track ) and what final gear ratio I need to be at. So basically work out the bugs and final details and then have the cam matched to what I have.
Old 07-06-2016, 07:49 PM
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I am thinking that having a baseline with your current camshaft will be some valuable data if you do need to make a change.
Old 07-06-2016, 09:02 PM
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I agree. If it doesn't go low 5's in the 1/8th then it gets the change.




HAHA, I can only hope.
Old 07-07-2016, 03:39 PM
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As mentioned you can throw any cam in and make decent power. Higher you go on overlap the smaller the tuning window will be. I don’t understand the allure of the larger duration camshafts on SBE type builds and relatively low rpm. You are going to have 2:1 or higher back pressure ratios depending on boost. Even the 1.32 T6’s with the big 87/96 exh wheel is going to produce 2:1+ BPR’s at 25+lbs. Which is where the OP will need to be to hit the numbers he is wanting.

I don’t see how a cam like the TU2 with 50*+ of overlap can be the “best” choice with a 2:1+ BP ratio. Stock48 had the best running “small” single turbo SBE 6.0 I’m aware of (Weight VS trap) He ran a 218/218 @ 112 .56x lift cam with a T4 S476. Copying the guy that’s pushed the SBE 6.0 single “small turbo” combo the farthest seems like a great place to start IMO. Most of the guys running the larger duration cams have the 1:1 back pressure ratios and or methanol/alky based fuels to help with the reversion/detonation issues. OP will be running race gas and won’t have the additional CC cooling you get with alky based stuff. I’d go smaller if the TU2 wasn’t sitting there ready to try for nothing. Or run a larger single turbo capable of 1:1 back pressure ratios and cam it like an NA “race car”.
Old 07-07-2016, 03:56 PM
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My question then is the cam he ran going to work for my 482 T6 1.25ar setup? There is actually that exact cam on sale that I texted a guy about and haven't heard back.
Old 07-07-2016, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86

I’d go smaller if the TU2 wasn’t sitting there ready to try for nothing. Or run a larger single turbo capable of 1:1 back pressure ratios and cam it like an NA “race car”.
This was exactly my point, he already has it, and since he has no data to work with so far, start there.
Old 07-07-2016, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Taxman20
My question then is the cam he ran going to work for my 482 T6 1.25ar setup? There is actually that exact cam on sale that I texted a guy about and haven't heard back.
Sure it would run fine with that turbo. That intake your running is more of a factor than the turbo difference IMO. I’d guess you’ll make more average HP across the board with the smaller cam and have less reversion with a larger margin for error in the tune. There’s more overlap than I’d be comfortable with in a TU2 with a setup like yours.

If you really love the mean sound you can run a moderate duration cam with low lift. You’ll be leaving power on the table, but it will sound cool. Check out the “LS1 hot cam” idle clips on utube. Howards makes a little more aggressive hot cam that is still low overlap and boost friendly.

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