When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also based on what I have been told with the setup I have, I can expect about double the spring pressure for max psi. So with a 10.7lb spring, I should expect to be able to achieve 21 and maybe a touch over. Which should get me where I need to be.
I am swapping the plumbing tonight. I hope it works. The tune so far has been good to 16.6 psi. I am going to the track Saturday for testing. I will make 1 hit at the current 16psi. Then if that works I will bump it to 18psi, then 20psi as long as each step goes well. I plan to log each run to see what is happening. Currently the knock sensor has been turned off. I plan to activate it so I can be safe just in case the timing is off when I make the bump up in pressure.
Just so you know where the tune was compared to where it is now. The VE table on the higher rpm was about or just over 100, he had to bring this down to the 60's and a touch over 70. Again, as he said it, he pulled a couple megatons of fuel out of it. It was actually so safe that is was dangerous. It would kill the engine like a rev limiter at high rpms, just choking the crap out of it. The timing was at 11 degrees, we ended up at 16. He tried 17 but it didn't help so it was left at 16.
I plan to pull 1 to 2 degrees for each 2psi jump to be safe. Then add it back in once it looks safe to do so.
If you guys see anything else I should be doing, or maybe just do something different feel free to let me know. I love experienced input.
That's a lot of power to start out with on a new build. I would start off around 10 psi for your first hit just to make sure everything is ok. 16 psi on my 76 mm damn near put my 3600lb car in the 8s.
It will depend on how many cars the track gets. I need to use the track time wisely and get as much done as I can. Ive driven it on the back road by my house to 120mph so far in testing it. So far everything seems solid and ready to go. I do need another brake master cylinder as the one I bought that should have worked is pretty hard but stoppable. I also need to put a rack & Pinion on it to help the steering since I am not running a PS pump now.
On the track I normally just have it setup to make a full power pass but on the first hit maybe run it to 300 ft or so and if its still feeling ok then run it out. I'm not planning on running it to the 1/4 as I'm not sure I have enough gear for it. So I am only running it to the 1/8th. If it gets loose or out of the groove I just let off. I'm not racing anyone yet so there's no reason to be stupid with it. I think I will be more worried about traction and hooking up than I am about the drivetrain.
I've been in the low 7's at around 190mph in my dragster spraying it. Sideways at 150 or so in it too. That was fun. LOL..
The only thing I don't have yet is a chute. I am installing one for safety. If its out of shape I can throw it to hopefully straighten the truck up before it hits something hard. I have never raced on a non prepped surface. And when I walked on it at the last no prep race here it was pretty slick.
Well its time for another update. Some of you guys saw the other thread I made for white specks on the heads and running issues. Well....
I had the heads rebuilt by H Squared engines in Houston. He set them up correctly this time as they were not right from the previous machine shop I used. we installed new Manley Severe Duty exhaust valves. The reason for this is that the Morel 5315 lifters, I think was, were having issues. We think that they were bleeding down and causing the rockers to bounce and possibly the pushrods to flex. This bouncing caused the tops of the exhaust valves to become mushroomed. The intakes were fine and were reused. I spoke to Trevor Manton and orders stage 5, 3/8" .095 wall pushrods. He also agreed that the issue would cause the problems I was having. Which one was hitting about 6k rpm and the rpm just falling off when everything in the data log looked fine. That I was having exhaust valve fluttering and bouncing which was causing the random pop through the exhaust. And this problem was most likely caused by the pressure in the cylinder under boost overloading the lifter and pushrod trying to open the exhaust valves. So.. This should not be an issue any longer. I have also installed a new set of Johnson 2116LSR tie-bar lifters.
I am also going to a colder spark plug. This with a couple tuning changes we are hoping to eliminate any detonation or plug overheating issues.
Today I took the transmission to my builder and we are changing the 1.69 first gear to a 1.80 to improve my 60ft which was pretty bad so far.
If everything goes well and i can get it running again by Saturday I am going to try and make it out to our track for testing. If we can get it right on the first couple of passes maybe I can get a couple of grudge races. They are having the Atomic Dog grudge fest Friday and Saturday.
Sounds like you’re ready to make some steam! I was wondering how your setup was doing.
Looking at Capazzi turning 8500 RPM on the factory LS7 lifters and stock rockers (trunnion upgrade)… I can’t imagine needing much else! Unfortunately everything from Baker is “hush-hush”. But if you keep having issues, I’m sure you could call them and say I want the “capazzi valve train package” and they could set you up.
Well I havent finished it just yet. Even though the shop that builds big power LS engines stated there was no need to clearance the heads for 3/8th pushrods,,,,, Well. And this was found after I torqued the heads down. Only need to get the hot pipes back on and some fluids in it. Hoping it fires up and idles right. Thats the first sign that I should have the issues fixed.
Well she is finally on the road again as of today. Turned down the boost duty so it would run a little easy for the first test drive. From a near stop, it made 19 psi, ran up to 6600 rpm on a recently paved road which hooks well. Smooth pulling and a controlled tire slip " yea and a little rear drifting LOL " the entire way with no flutters or rpm drops ect. Ran just like it should. Now to the track for real testing and tuning. Its going to be very ready for the Redemption 9.0 True Street class. Just waiting for the new date.
Went to the track last night for testing. The track was well prepped because they had a promod and fuel altered series race.
I had made 1 street test hit and it ran great. I had the trany 1st gear changed from a 1.69 to a 1.80 to help the 60ft times. It did. We left the tune alone just to see what the gear would do for me before making any other changes. Slip shows the times. I was told the front got about 3ft in the air but hell I couldn't tell. I did burp the pedal to get it back down easy and then it had a couple sputtering moments about 150ft and a little further down track so the ET and MPH are down from what it should have run. It also left on 19.7psi and it normally leaves on 13.5. Not sure what the hell happened there. I shut it off at the 1/8th because we wanted to check plugs at WOT for tuning. Still ran quick to the 1/8th lol. Im not sure but it may have gotten into the 8's.
Now for the problem, yea, because RACECAR.
2nd test pass. Tried to leave on about 14psi or so, it left, for about .1 seconds, laid down and I coasted down and off the track. Drove it back to the pit. I hear a rattle in the exhaust and its enough oil smoke to get rid of every mosquito in the county. So I thought the turbo was gone. Checked the shaft and it feels good. Little movement but the impellers are not hitting the housing. But lots of oil in the exhaust housing. I am going to rebuild it to be safe. Engine seemed to have a miss. I need to check compression and a leak down. The oil catch can has never had oil and that pass filled it up and pushed oil past the filter on top. So I am thinking rings or even a broke piston. At this point if the engine needs to be rebuilt, I will be looking for a good deal on a forged crank, nice rods and turbo pistons. So now its time to check it all out and decide the move on this thing.
I agree on that 60. I am a little doubtful the lights were accurate. I was going to be happy with 1.30s. But Im not sure so Ill take it. The rest looks right.
I agree on that 60. I am a little doubtful the lights were accurate. I was going to be happy with 1.30s. But Im not sure so Ill take it. The rest looks right.
the more I think about it I have no doubt it really cut a 1.16
At that boost it probably left the line at over 700whp
Im comparing it with my old dragster. 1800 lbs with 1000 hp NA. Its 60 was normally 1.10-13.
Btw did a compression and leak test. Looks ok. Most cylinders are 170psi, 1 at 180 and lowest at about 160. Leaks are at 12% with 1 at 20 and 1 at 25%. But this is cold so a leak down wont show perfectly accurate. Most of these numbers are lower than the last time I checked it. I had some in the 20s and now they are 12. I need to pull the turbo and check for oil in the hot pipe preturbo. If no oil in the exhaust pipe from the engine I am thinking its just the turbo that failed. Problem with that though is the shaft spins free, no rubbing but it does have some side movement. More than it used to have.
Im comparing it with my old dragster. 1800 lbs with 1000 hp NA. Its 60 was normally 1.10-13.
Btw did a compression and leak test. Looks ok. Most cylinders are 170psi, 1 at 180 and lowest at about 160. Leaks are at 12% with 1 at 20 and 1 at 25%. But this is cold so a leak down wont show perfectly accurate. Most of these numbers are lower than the last time I checked it. I had some in the 20s and now they are 12. I need to pull the turbo and check for oil in the hot pipe preturbo. If no oil in the exhaust pipe from the engine I am thinking its just the turbo that failed. Problem with that though is the shaft spins free, no rubbing but it does have some side movement. More than it used to have.
check for oil in your pre turbo pipes, but chances are good the motor is fine
I know Barry cook did 1.2x 60fts with maybe a little more power but at 3600lbs
The 60ft would be nice. Since it ran a 6.35 with less boost and a 1.65 60ft when it had a 1.69 1st gear which is now a 1.80 . It should be in the high 5s now with a good pass. Just frustrating to keep having issues.
Engine checked out fine. All the smoke was from the turbo. I rebuilt it and it feels much better.
The engine miss was a bad injector driver which caused #6 cylinder to be a dead hole. So I sent the MS3 box back to EFI Source for repair. Looks like the trans brake can cause power spikes that mess with the controller. They are sending a diode to resolve this issue.
If all goes well I can make a couple races in the next month. Fingers are crossed.
Engine checked out fine. All the smoke was from the turbo. I rebuilt it and it feels much better.
The engine miss was a bad injector driver which caused #6 cylinder to be a dead hole. So I sent the MS3 box back to EFI Source for repair. Looks like the trans brake can cause power spikes that mess with the controller. They are sending a diode to resolve this issue.
If all goes well I can make a couple races in the next month. Fingers are crossed.
I know a couple guys that friend their Gold Boxes off the TB.
04-20-2017, 02:22 PM
