67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

Ran last night at Famoso in Bakersfield, CA in the bird. Still on straight 91. Best ET of the night was 11.47 with a 1.83 60' @ 122MPH. Best MPH of the night was 124MPH. It was making ~9psi in first, 11psi in second, and spiked to 13.88psi and settled at just over 12psi in third, all of this at 14º, and 11.20-11.40AFR.

I for the life of me could not get this thing to hook! I have a 1/16" gap between the bar on the caltracs, set in the top hole, and caltrac split mono leafs. I've got CE front shocks, set at 60/40 because I drive this thing, Rancho 9 ways out back set on #5 (they feel awful stiff). The 1.83 60' was leaving on 1.88psi on the footbrake, then it'd spin, any more than that and it just boiled the tires instantly. I had the ET Street SS radials set to 18psi.

I'm using a competition engineering shock relocation bar and have the shocks mounted inboard. What's strange is calvert racing said they don't sell a shock short enough to work with this. I had to dig through rancho's products to find a shock short enough to work, but only have ~2.50" travel each way. Between the eye mounts on the caltracs and the CE relocation bar, I have 11.750" with the car on the ground, between the lower eye mount, and the top stud mount on the CE bar, I have 13.500".

I'd roll into the first beam, stand on the brakes as hard as I could (power brakes), start revving (had to disable my 2-step because I didn't have time to run get a switch installed to disable it for the burnout) and then get into the second beam, and give it ~50% throttle to get just above 100kpa.

I haven't wired in the transbrake yet, and planned to run the brake and the 2-step off the same switch when I do. A 1.83 60' time is horsecrap, so I would love to hear your recommendations!

ls3fox

Videos would help

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

I didn't have any good quality videos, especially close to the line, the damn barrier blocks the tire. It leaves baby soft, and then some.

Blk92notch

What's your wheel and tire set up

Bad Apache

If your asking for chassis set up tips, without any good video. My suggestions would be loosening the front shocks to 90/10 and try going up and down 2 psi on the ET Streets and see if you get any improvement. 1 change at a time. I prefer the ET Street R's over the SS's. I can't imagine them holding a brake/2 step launch under some real boost. Are you knocking them loose immediately or as boost comes in? You need to "hit" a radial hard to make them stick.

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

They're draglites, 275/60/15 ET Street SS at 18psi.

They're getting knocked loose instantly. I do only have 5" stroke rancho shocks, they're set in the middle, so 2.50 compression, 2.50 extension which I hear is not enough although my friend running a 69 camaro (4 speed car on bottle) ran high 9's at almost 140 last night with the same relocation and shorty shocks. Calvert racing said 2.50" either way would be great for my setup, but I need to get under it and look at the 'clean' spot on the shaft to see what it's doing I guess. I have the caltracs set in the top hole with a 1/16" gap between the 'bolt' and the leaf for a hard, but shorter hit to get them to bite.

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

I just pulled the car out of the garage after testing my 2 step (wired to my brake switch). Standing on the brake in 1st, tires start spinning if I have it set to 2500rpm even. I set it to 2300 and it's borderline. I bet on the track 2400 might work. Only makes 2psi, so I might log and see where my timing/fueling is. I have a feeling this converter is tighter down low than I think it is, which is why it's so damn streetable even with the 3.25's out back.

Ben.

Can't help with setup, but wire your 2 step to the transbrake, not your brake switch or you wont be able to do a burnout. Seen somebody else make this same mistake before. Or put a secondary switch in line if it's easier.

Bad Apache

Unless you're topping the shocks out very quickly, which I doubt, I think the rear shocks are all good. Any idea of pinion angle?

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

That was the plan, but ran out of time. I've got a T-handle with a button on it I was going to use to wire the T-brake and 2-step to, already ran the 10ga wire under the console and all for the solenoid, again, just ran out of time. hahaha

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

-2º. I need to pull back the boot to check the 'clean' spot on the shaft, to see what kind of travel it's been under.

ken6881

Try to get someone out there with an iPhone 6 that has slow mo 120 frames per second and you can learn alot on the first pass. My buddies truck was having issues took a video and got it working fairly quick. Here is one video we shot.

baronsmith98

iTrader: (2)

I would play with the caltrac bars some as well. Try them just touching one pass, then try with a 1/4 turn of preload. Try all the settings in the top hole then do it again in the bottom hole and see which is best

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

That's a hell of an idea Ken, my Nexus 6P does 240FPS and would definitely be useful!

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

Agreed, I'll definitely give that a whirl. I had seen many people recommending to start out in the top hole, then 1/16" gap. I was happy not to have any wheel hop, it was smooth, just spun like hell, didn't shake or anything when it did, just like I was on water.

Appreciate all of you guys chiming in to try and help a pal out!

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

I attached a crappy cell phone video a friend took from the stands. You can see it run like hell just barely loading the converter to keep from spinning, this pass was 1.83, ran 11.47 @ 122 when I added more fuel.

Bad Apache

Yeah no weight transfer at all. Just straight out. Pinion angle sounds good. Looking forward to a "good" video of a launch. As stated, much can be learned from that. You could always throw ET Drags on it and leave off the brake and let her eat!!

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

Heck yeah, find the next weak link

I'm thinking without the chassis being preloaded, I'll be able to utilize even 2.50" of extension/compression in the shock and at least get it to bite some, then use the 2-step to control it some until I get an eboost2 (or AMS). This thing is a money pit and the wife wants to kill me as it is, hahaha.

Bad Apache

What springs are in the front? Is it stiff or soft? Lots of stored energy in nice soft front springs = weight transfer. What bushings in the front end? Well lubed poly bushings will help with allowing the front end to move as well. Or worn sloppy originals, lol. Work with what you have, that'll keep the Mrs. happy!

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

I've got moroso trick coils in the front, CE 3-ways in the front set at 60/40 (should be 90/10?), I've got rubber bushings in the front that I replaced a few years ago, maybe I should disassemble the control arms again and replace with some poly units. I pulled up on the front end last night and it seemed 'soft' to me. The rear end is pretty stiff and I can hear the bushings squeak when I push down on the *** end.