Microsquirt/Megasquirt people please help
10-22-2016, 03:42 PM
#1
Microsquirt/Megasquirt people please help So ive got an LM7 with twins running off Microsquirt. It reads rpm, it starts fine, revs fine, even idles decent. Gets into boost good, etc. But it always shows "not synced" in red at the bottom of tunerstudio. Its literally never showed "synced".
Im fighting a weird problem and im wondering if this could be the source. When the engine is first started, it idles and runs great. Then as it starts to warm up a bit, it starts randomly popping out of the exhaust. Individual cylinders, all of them at random, but never seems like more than one at a time. Not big backfires, just quiet little pops. And i can see the pops on my wideband.
The longer the engine runs, the worse these pops get, and after its running for about 10 minutes, it will start cutting out. Its like momentarily shutting the key off for a split second. And the wideband will cut out full lean when it does it, i assume because none of the cylinders are firing for that split second.
So heres what ive done to attempt to fix this issue over the last year.
-redid the entire harness 3 times (its all soldered and heatshrinked)
-sent the microsquirt back to efi source to have the revised coil resistors put in
-added mulitple engine and chassis grounds
-moved around the microsquirt grounds to different parts of the cylinder head
-new fuel injectors
-new fuel regulator and all new lines
Anyone have any advice on what i do next? I'm planning on trying a new crankshaft sensor tomorrow. After that, im out of ideas. This has been a year long fight that im just done with. Its very close to getting the turbos ripped off, the microsquirt **** sold, and going to a high compression NA build with a stock pcm.
Any help is greatly appreciated. And sorry for the long winded post.lol
Im fighting a weird problem and im wondering if this could be the source. When the engine is first started, it idles and runs great. Then as it starts to warm up a bit, it starts randomly popping out of the exhaust. Individual cylinders, all of them at random, but never seems like more than one at a time. Not big backfires, just quiet little pops. And i can see the pops on my wideband.
The longer the engine runs, the worse these pops get, and after its running for about 10 minutes, it will start cutting out. Its like momentarily shutting the key off for a split second. And the wideband will cut out full lean when it does it, i assume because none of the cylinders are firing for that split second.
So heres what ive done to attempt to fix this issue over the last year.
-redid the entire harness 3 times (its all soldered and heatshrinked)
-sent the microsquirt back to efi source to have the revised coil resistors put in
-added mulitple engine and chassis grounds
-moved around the microsquirt grounds to different parts of the cylinder head
-new fuel injectors
-new fuel regulator and all new lines
Anyone have any advice on what i do next? I'm planning on trying a new crankshaft sensor tomorrow. After that, im out of ideas. This has been a year long fight that im just done with. Its very close to getting the turbos ripped off, the microsquirt **** sold, and going to a high compression NA build with a stock pcm.
Any help is greatly appreciated. And sorry for the long winded post.lol
10-22-2016, 04:06 PM
#2
change that crank sencer and see . but I have never seen one run out of sync. what tune is in it the tune that comes from efisource has gave me issues before . I always load one from denmah's sit and have less trouble. what is the combo,injectors, engine , fuel type. I might have a good tune for you to start with myself.
10-22-2016, 04:11 PM
#3
Tune was initially one of Denmah's off the sloppy wiki site. Hos fairmont 2 gas tune i think it was. But ive changed it a **** ton.
Its an 04 LM7. Completely stock long block with ls6 springs. SD 80lb injectors. Ls1 stock intake and rails. Twin t3 55mm's. Tuning it on 93, but its going to be on e85 if i can ever get it to stop doing what its doing.
Im willing to try anything you tell me to at this point.lol
Its an 04 LM7. Completely stock long block with ls6 springs. SD 80lb injectors. Ls1 stock intake and rails. Twin t3 55mm's. Tuning it on 93, but its going to be on e85 if i can ever get it to stop doing what its doing.
Im willing to try anything you tell me to at this point.lol
10-22-2016, 05:21 PM
#5
you built the harness I'm guessing. is the 12 v power wire going to the crank senser tied into anything else directly? how about the senser grounds
that is a new issue to me so I'm trying to think about what is going on .
just a thought but is it running good on the warmup enrichment and just going lean when it gets to 160*as the warmup goes away. ?
try to start it up and as it warms up and leans up try highlighting the area it is idleing in and add fuel and see if it helps
the crank out of sync has me though as I cant see how it runs if it never syncs. you don't have a 58x senser in a 24x engine or something do you.
just thinking out loud.
that is a new issue to me so I'm trying to think about what is going on .
just a thought but is it running good on the warmup enrichment and just going lean when it gets to 160*as the warmup goes away. ?
try to start it up and as it warms up and leans up try highlighting the area it is idleing in and add fuel and see if it helps
the crank out of sync has me though as I cant see how it runs if it never syncs. you don't have a 58x senser in a 24x engine or something do you.
just thinking out loud.
10-22-2016, 05:21 PM
#6
There was a change in TS and firmware along the way where the dash board indicators changed. Right click on the not synced and choose the rpm sync indicator. It's been a while since I've done it, but searching the icons should find you what your looking for
Edit, you'll have to save and reload the dash board too. It's in the release notes for the firmware in the zip file
Edit, you'll have to save and reload the dash board too. It's in the release notes for the firmware in the zip file
Last edited by Nathaninwa; 10-22-2016 at 05:48 PM.
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10-22-2016, 07:18 PM
#8
Gonna try to answer all these questions in one go on my phone.
Ive run compression and leak down on all cylinders. All check out. Also, it goes around to both banks and all cylinders. Its not just one cylinder. Thats the first thing i checked.
I'd have to doube check the cmp power, but i know all my sensor ground splits at the firewall and goes to all the sensors from there.
Its not actually going lean. It likes to run around 11-12.5afr when not totally warm. Warmup enrichment is all set up, and ive tried to give it fuel/take away fuel to keep it from popping, but nothing seems to change anything.
To my knowledge, everything is 24x. The engine ran in the truck before i got it.
I do not have a datalog of it, but i can get one tomorrow.
Ive run compression and leak down on all cylinders. All check out. Also, it goes around to both banks and all cylinders. Its not just one cylinder. Thats the first thing i checked.
I'd have to doube check the cmp power, but i know all my sensor ground splits at the firewall and goes to all the sensors from there.
Its not actually going lean. It likes to run around 11-12.5afr when not totally warm. Warmup enrichment is all set up, and ive tried to give it fuel/take away fuel to keep it from popping, but nothing seems to change anything.
To my knowledge, everything is 24x. The engine ran in the truck before i got it.
I do not have a datalog of it, but i can get one tomorrow.
10-23-2016, 05:39 AM
#9
have you checked your coils I'm wondering if you have one shorting out. as it warms up.
the harness is built from denmah's post. I'm guessing as mine is the same. and has worked but the last few I have built I bought the harness from efisource and it is a nice harness.
do you have a set of coils to try. sounds like you have had a good look at the harness. if the ecu is good and the engine is good the only thing left is the harness.
are you sure you are powering it up with a good 12 volt feed. not with a resistor wire or ballast resister or something. thinking out loud here.
I have used 5 or 6 micros and love them.
the harness is built from denmah's post. I'm guessing as mine is the same. and has worked but the last few I have built I bought the harness from efisource and it is a nice harness.
do you have a set of coils to try. sounds like you have had a good look at the harness. if the ecu is good and the engine is good the only thing left is the harness.
are you sure you are powering it up with a good 12 volt feed. not with a resistor wire or ballast resister or something. thinking out loud here.
I have used 5 or 6 micros and love them.
10-23-2016, 09:05 AM
#10
I do not have another set of coils, but i could buy a set. The harness was built using denmah's how-to thread. All main powers come off a fuse panel i installed, and key on power is coming off the factory fuse box under the dash. I suppose there could be problems with the factory fuse box connection. I can move it to my constant 12v panel and see if it changes anything.
10-23-2016, 09:29 AM
#11
Check your coil bulkheads as I had it come up on me at Dragweek this year. While the engine is running grab the bulkhead and wiggle it to see if that changes anything. I had to zip tie the bulkhead connector together and that fixed the problem. Evidently there is a pin fitting loose in there.
10-23-2016, 09:32 AM
#12
Have you tried switched to the rpm synced icon? Sync issues will show up in the datalog along with looking at some status reports
Coils, plugs and wires should be looked as noted above. I'm running an canegt box and was chasing a topend 1/4 mile stumble, nothing anyone could hear but I felt it in the car. Looking at the egt data, right around 5500 rpm one cylinder would go cold. This happened twice, but being at the track I changed coil and plug and the problem went away. I've saved the coils and will test next year weather or not it was a new plug failing or the 200k old coils packs
Coils, plugs and wires should be looked as noted above. I'm running an canegt box and was chasing a topend 1/4 mile stumble, nothing anyone could hear but I felt it in the car. Looking at the egt data, right around 5500 rpm one cylinder would go cold. This happened twice, but being at the track I changed coil and plug and the problem went away. I've saved the coils and will test next year weather or not it was a new plug failing or the 200k old coils packs
10-23-2016, 10:26 AM
#13
There was a change in TS and firmware along the way where the dash board indicators changed. Right click on the not synced and choose the rpm sync indicator. It's been a while since I've done it, but searching the icons should find you what your looking for
Edit, you'll have to save and reload the dash board too. It's in the release notes for the firmware in the zip file
Edit, you'll have to save and reload the dash board too. It's in the release notes for the firmware in the zip file
10-23-2016, 10:52 AM
#14
New crank sensor made absolutely zero change in the condition. Just loaded denmah's base tune back in it and it made zero change as well other than make it lean because im running less fuel pressure than he was.
Going to try to get a video of the noise and a datalog of it, as well as move around my power sources.
Going to try to get a video of the noise and a datalog of it, as well as move around my power sources.
10-23-2016, 11:38 AM
#17
Coils are grounded to the drivers side cylinder head. Got the 2 MS grounds, the coil ground, and a chassis ground all going to a clean and shiny bolt on the head. Just recently moved one of the chassis grounds there. It did the exact same thing before i did that.
10-23-2016, 06:31 PM
#19
I'm no expert but that tune has some issues.
your required fuel is set at 122 cubic inch engine.
the cold start timing advance is adding 10 degrees timing to your ignition table everywhere below 213 degrees coolant temp. that should be a tapper and end by about 160 coolant temp.
your warmup enrichment is adding fuel up over 210 degrees coolant temp.should also be a tapper ending at 160 or 170 or so.
that is a new firmware than mine as I haven't seen a mat fuel enrichment before but it does not look right eather .
your required fuel is set at 122 cubic inch engine.
the cold start timing advance is adding 10 degrees timing to your ignition table everywhere below 213 degrees coolant temp. that should be a tapper and end by about 160 coolant temp.
your warmup enrichment is adding fuel up over 210 degrees coolant temp.should also be a tapper ending at 160 or 170 or so.
that is a new firmware than mine as I haven't seen a mat fuel enrichment before but it does not look right eather .
10-23-2016, 07:24 PM
#20
I'm no expert but that tune has some issues.
your required fuel is set at 122 cubic inch engine.
the cold start timing advance is adding 10 degrees timing to your ignition table everywhere below 213 degrees coolant temp. that should be a tapper and end by about 160 coolant temp.
your warmup enrichment is adding fuel up over 210 degrees coolant temp.should also be a tapper ending at 160 or 170 or so.
that is a new firmware than mine as I haven't seen a mat fuel enrichment before but it does not look right eather .
your required fuel is set at 122 cubic inch engine.
the cold start timing advance is adding 10 degrees timing to your ignition table everywhere below 213 degrees coolant temp. that should be a tapper and end by about 160 coolant temp.
your warmup enrichment is adding fuel up over 210 degrees coolant temp.should also be a tapper ending at 160 or 170 or so.
that is a new firmware than mine as I haven't seen a mat fuel enrichment before but it does not look right eather .
I dont know how the required fuel dropped to that. Ive had problems with changes not savin in the past. For the warmup enrichment, if i taper it off, it dies as soon as it reaches the temp at 0%. I can add a **** ton of fuel everywhere, and it still just cuts off as soon as it reaches that point. Cant figure it out, so i just started to leave a little WUE at all temps.
I've never tuned an efi car before, so im learning all this on the fly. But its hard for me to tune it when it randomly just cuts out when it warms up.