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I'll try and check my old phone for pics but it might be the extra 3/4 inch from the truck accessories. Best option might be to have a welder cut, re-angle and reweld to clear.
Forgot to mention, you're going to have to do something about the waterpump to heater lines. I ditched my hvac set up so i just plugged them.
I think the 3/4" compounds the problem but if you look closely in the pics on the CX website 2/3 of them are with the truck waterpump. You can see the cut off top hose connection and then they switch the photos to the car style water pump. A clear indication is the shallow pulley only found on the trucks, cars(fbody,corvette and CTSV) all run the same waterpump and that's why it has a massively deep pulley. The truck is the only one with that spacing so it has a dedicated waterpump and pulley configuration so they don't need the deep pulley for different depths. They do however run the fbody tensioner on the truck waterpump so the tensioner is almost 3/4" pushed closer to the block.
Thanks for the heads up on the heater lines. I've already removed the nipples on all my pumps and tap them for SS plugs. Makes a very clean install and I only drive mine in warm weather so heat is never and issue.
I think the 3/4" compounds the problem but if you look closely in the pics on the CX website 2/3 of them are with the truck waterpump. You can see the cut off top hose connection and then they switch the photos to the car style water pump. A clear indication is the shallow pulley only found on the trucks, cars(fbody,corvette and CTSV) all run the same waterpump and that's why it has a massively deep pulley. The truck is the only one with that spacing so it has a dedicated waterpump and pulley configuration so they don't need the deep pulley for different depths. They do however run the fbody tensioner on the truck waterpump so the tensioner is almost 3/4" pushed closer to the block.
Thanks for the heads up on the heater lines. I've already removed the nipples on all my pumps and tap them for SS plugs. Makes a very clean install and I only drive mine in warm weather so heat is never and issue.
Yeah I believe the 3rd gen they used for mock up/pictures was never fired up or dyno'd. I think they could have sold a lot more kits if they had.
it is a cleaner install with plugs. I'm in So Cal so weather is hardly a problem. It's actually started to cool down so I'll be back at the track soon with a little more boost
Yea, having some dynomax sheets would be a great selling point. The pics showed 862 heads which are only found on 5.3s and 4.8s so they are using a truck 4.8 or 5.3 for mockup, that explains the waterpump. But they swapped out the other stuff for LS car parts including the intake.
Sounds good man, post some numbers/times and see how she's doing.
Oh meant to ask you, how loud is the wastegate dump when it opens? Trying to figure out if I should just leave it alone or find a way to plumb it into the down pipe.
Oh meant to ask you, how loud is the wastegate dump when it opens? Trying to figure out if I should just leave it alone or find a way to plumb it into the down pipe.
Wastegate is pretty loud but not obnoxious. I don't mind it but it would be super stealth if I tied it into the exhaust instead of atmosphere. Maybe even a small muffler?
I'll see if I can record some in car video later tonight.
I've seen people run small glass packs to help with the noise. A guy on thirdgen burned a hole in the strut tower and poked the gate through there, but it was too loud so he added a glass pack and said it helped a lot. The issue on our kits is the wastegate pipe is not straight and dumps by the steering pitman/idler arm right? I never got to mock mine up on the car but that's what the pics look like. I just tore the whole car apart, in 2 days I got everything off the car and already swapped to the NNBS intake and custom fuel rails all done. Just gotta fab up a throttle bracket and exhaust when the reshipped crossover/header come so I can start mocking things up. I would love to tie right back into the downpipe but it looks stupid close and that doesn't leave room for a flex joint. So install would be super annoying esp after some heat cycles.
Any chance to hearing a video of how loud the gate dump is?
Got my crossover and header today. Mocked it all up and looks like I’m in the same boat. I mocked up everything in the car tho and it does fit. However the flex coupler is resting on the fan plastic shroud and the crossover contacts the serpentine belt still. So I figured if I cut out 3/4” of the crossover on the driver side to bring it 3/4” closer to the Engine it will clear the shroud, then I’ll add 3/4” to the pass side and push it out away from the tensioner and solve both problems with 3 cuts. Should be fun lol.
Also im wanting to recirculate the wastegate back into the dump pipe for stealth. It will only require a short 90+* bend and should be good.
Got my crossover and header today. Mocked it all up and looks like I’m in the same boat. I mocked up everything in the car tho and it does fit. However the flex coupler is resting on the fan plastic shroud and the crossover contacts the serpentine belt still. So I figured if I cut out 3/4” of the crossover on the driver side to bring it 3/4” closer to the Engine it will clear the shroud, then I’ll add 3/4” to the pass side and push it out away from the tensioner and solve both problems with 3 cuts. Should be fun lol.
Also im wanting to recirculate the wastegate back into the dump pipe for stealth. It will only require a short 90+* bend and should be good.
Have you thought about making your fans pushers and putting them in front of your radiator?? Move your IC up a bit to clear it if you've got the room?
Have you thought about making your fans pushers and putting them in front of your radiator?? Move your IC up a bit to clear it if you've got the room?
Yup, don’t have the room. I run an oversized rad, Afco racing 2 core 19x31 and the rad is pushed forward and down 1.5”. The rad doesn’t have a tranny cooler built in so I run a stupid large tranny cooler about 17x27” from a ford superduty. It’s the only way to keep tranny temps low enough with the 2600stall. Then I have the 3” intercooler infront. It would be different if I had a camaro with the open nose but on a TA it’s all a solid wall. Puller fans are more efficient anyways so they are staying as is. Honestly I would have loved a 2.5” crossover like they stated as it would have cleared no problem. I would honestly fab one up pretty easily but the 3”’vbands on the headers are the issue. Should take me about 2 hrs to modify the crossover, cut and weld if all goes to plan.
Yup, don’t have the room. I run an oversized rad, Afco racing 2 core 19x31 and the rad is pushed forward and down 1.5”. The rad doesn’t have a tranny cooler built in so I run a stupid large tranny cooler about 17x27” from a ford superduty. It’s the only way to keep tranny temps low enough with the 2600stall. Then I have the 3” intercooler infront. It would be different if I had a camaro with the open nose but on a TA it’s all a solid wall. Puller fans are more efficient anyways so they are staying as is. Honestly I would have loved a 2.5” crossover like they stated as it would have cleared no problem. I would honestly fab one up pretty easily but the 3”’vbands on the headers are the issue. Should take me about 2 hrs to modify the crossover, cut and weld if all goes to plan.
I see I see. I just found your install thread on 3rd Gen. The thing looks nice. I gotta put mine on hold for now just got called to work at precision drilling. I'll go make some oil money then hand the car over to my buddies shop and let them take care of everything while I'm out of town
Got my crossover and header today. Mocked it all up and looks like I’m in the same boat. I mocked up everything in the car tho and it does fit. However the flex coupler is resting on the fan plastic shroud and the crossover contacts the serpentine belt still. So I figured if I cut out 3/4” of the crossover on the driver side to bring it 3/4” closer to the Engine it will clear the shroud, then I’ll add 3/4” to the pass side and push it out away from the tensioner and solve both problems with 3 cuts. Should be fun lol.
Also im wanting to recirculate the wastegate back into the dump pipe for stealth. It will only require a short 90+* bend and should be good.
That's a bummer. What solid tensioner did you go with? My belt has walked a few grooves at WOT.
Side note spent some time doing some much needed detailing. Clay bar, cut, polish and wax.
I see I see. I just found your install thread on 3rd Gen. The thing looks nice. I gotta put mine on hold for now just got called to work at precision drilling. I'll go make some oil money then hand the car over to my buddies shop and let them take care of everything while I'm out of town
Thank you. The turbo kit looks awsome tho so once I wrap it, its doing to look even better.
Sounds good! Wish I had the dough so good for you, should be fun once you get back.
That's a bummer. What solid tensioner did you go with? My belt has walked a few grooves at WOT.
Side note spent some time doing some much needed detailing. Clay bar, cut, polish and wax.
Looks good cyber! She drives fast now she has to look fast too
I went with the ICT billet LS truck manual tensioner but I screwed up as I really needed the LS1 car version since I will be running the LS1 pump with spacers. They were nice enough to ship the car spacers and bolts free of charge (always had great service with them) the tensioner is like $50 and its really nice. Plus it gives you a bunch more clearance. My issue isnt the pulley anymore its the belt is now rubbing the crossover.
Ive actually heard of the belt walking if you rev to decel too quickly with the stock style spring tensioner. Usually happens on boosted applications lol of course. Switching to a manual tensioner solves the issue but just requires more perodical belt checking. So instead of not worrying about it for 100k you check it at every oil change or so and tighten when needed like every 3-6k. Im sure it won't loosen up even at 6k miles. Think about old school vbelt and serpentine systems with manual tensioners they worked fine. THe spring loaded tensioner is just for the average lazy joe that doenst want to check belt tension for the life of the vehicle.
Cranked the boost controller up, removed some weight from the car, slapped on the skinnies and was hoping to take advantage of 20 degree cooler weather. 6.6s@105mph was the goal
Unfortunately, tech guy didn't let me run. Rear mounted battery requires an NHRA compliant sealed box First time in years that it's ever been an issue.
Did some datalogging on the way home. With the boost controller turned all the way in. I'm only getting about 1 more lb of boost? Car feels likes its making more power and it's taking a lot more fuel(108% duty cycle) but hp tuners is only logging 7.6~ psi(even with the electric cut-out open)
Your lucky! It’s real strict over here. Tech also denied me bc my battery had a hair of wiggle room in it when he shook it like a hulk and it was in the stock location under the hood. They also gave me problems about using closed lug nuts, apparently open lugs and the strud has to protrude from the lug nut the same distance as the stud DIA as a min. It’s exactly why I stopped going to the track.
Weird about the boost tho... maybe your controller is f’d up? The CX kit comes with a 12psi spring... not sure how your only making 7.6psi, it should be the spring pressure as the minimum. Unless your running the 6psi spring. if you are maybe throw in the higher psi spring and see what it does just the on the gate. Then plug your boost controller in and see what it does.
But yes, sealed box with vent to outside the car. You also need a battery cutoff accessible from the outside of the car and it must terminate all battery power.
I dont run a box, but I did put silicone hose on the battery vents and ran it so the fumes go outside the car. Lead acid battery fumes is not something I want to breath in during the summer months.
But yes, sealed box with vent to outside the car. You also need a battery cutoff accessible from the outside of the car and it must terminate all battery power.
I dont run a box, but I did put silicone hose on the battery vents and ran it so the fumes go outside the car. Lead acid battery fumes is not something I want to breath in during the summer months.
Use an optima battery they are completely sealed and can be mounted in any position
09-20-2017, 08:30 PM
and I only drive mine in warm weather so heat is never and issue. 
First time in years that it's ever been an issue.
