Kyle.t91

Does this make sense ?

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

From what I understand A & B from pres. manifold goes to gnd. side of sol. A
C from pres. manifold goes to gnd. of sol. B.
+12 to pink wire, toggle +12 to brown, lockup
you can trace those to the external wiring and convert it there.

Kyle.t91

Everything I have read says the brown is a switched ground. The ECU supplies a ground not a 12v signal. Also I am not using any part of the ecu on this trans. It wall just be that pigtail there in the pic.

Kyle.t91

Here the info I used.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

Your prob right, I was going from memory

Kyle.t91

New issue. Washed the engine the other day because I'm an idiot and the truck was good till the next day. Getting a start and die issue. Runs for about 2 seconds and dies. Cycle the key and then fuel pump does do it's cycle. Getting the 1637 and 1638 codes. Iv pulled the harness apart checking for anything. Swapped alternater and had the battery charger on all night. Still having start and die issue. I double checked to make sure vats we're still disabled ( it's not like they just turn themselves back on) they was. Anything else I am missing? I'm ready to beat this thing with a bat

Kyle.t91

Ok so I had this dumb idea to plug in a extra 411 ecu in even though the vats we're still on and also a 411 doesn't operate a dbw throttle. Anyway... Plugged it in turned in the key. Hit throttle and nothing. Tried to start and nothing. Just spun over. Exactly what I was expecting. Unhooked it and hooked up the one that's on the truck and the damn thing started. It's been 3 days of starting and die after 2 seconds and I try this and its back working I dunno if something reset inside or what. Any ideas of what the hell it could have been???

laytoncamaroz28

iTrader: (10)

Maybe some water got in the harness connectors by the pcm? Removing and installed em maybe took a bad connection out of it

Kyle.t91

I checked them all. Even pulled the ecu apart to see if any water was inside. Nothing. I'm stumped. I dunno what happened. And I dunno if it will happen again.

Kyle.t91

Ok I got an update. Got home Tuesday from work and started swapping in the 80e yesterday morning. Got it all in. New trans cooler and 6an lines. Got everything in no problem. Before I went for a drive I checked love pressure in all gears. Park-180, rev-230+, all forward gears were 180-190. Everything looked good. All gears worked and I was super happy the wiring and hd2 kit was working. Decided to go for a little test drive and see how it was. It was awesome for about 5 min until I looked in my mirror and saw white smoke and smelled burying trans fluid. I pulled over immediately. Out the truck in park, looked under it and fluid was pouring out from the converter area. I was pissed. Nothing but one thing after another with this damn truck and transmissions. Got it back home. Called a couple friend ls and one of them said that these new after market front seals sometimes pop out. They don't hold wellb in the front if the pump. Well I dropped the trans and pulled the converter out and baaammm.... The seal came off work the converter. I was a little relived to see that was the issue. Easy enough fix. Got a new seal. (National brand) and some lock tite, ran a nice bead around the new seal and hammered it in. Put everything back together for the second time in 6 he's lol. Started it up and it was good again. Decided to let it sit over night so the lock tite can cure better.

Also.... It was really awesome the short drive I got to do. Everything was working great. Cruising 70 at 2100-2200 rpm.

epfatboy

iTrader: (3)

Did you do the pump mods the HD2 kit spec'd, specifically drilling the relief hole where the seal sits larger?

Asking cause I'm hoping mine does not do the same!!

Kyle.t91

No I didn't. The pump wasn't removed. Only did the valve body mods. My trans guy told me to clean the seal surface and new seal with solvent and put lock tite on The New seal and it should be good so that's what I did

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

yeah the increased line pressure will poop that seal out. especially since you're manually controlling it.

order another seal, the front bushing and a pump gasket and do it once.

also mic the od of the converter drive hub, ive seen them way undersize after a rebuilder cleans them up. you might need a repair sleeve.

just went through this on my buddy's turbo LS zephyr wagon

Kyle.t91

Damnit Doug that's not what I wanted to hear lol. Please help me understand things because I know nothing about the fluid routing and all that junk inside the trans. Does line pressure increase with RPM? The drain hole behind the seal is the drain for the coverter correct? Is that pressure the same as line pressure or is it less? What does shifting it manually have to do with line pressure? I thought the shift kit is what was raising the line pressure... Or do both do?.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

Its a drain for the converter hub bearing lube. Yes, generally line pressure will increase with rpm. Its more complex than that but for this lube point yes. Especially if you put the hd spring in the pressure relief valve in the pump.

Sorry man just trying to save you further hassles

Kyle.t91

back out at work for a couple weeks. drove the truck and all has been good. also asked my trans guy and he said i shouldnt have any issues with the seal coming out again since i put locktite on it. so far so good. got to adjust my pinion angle when i get back from work. its a couple degrees + for sure. going to get some wedge shims from auto parts store and see if thatll help with my vibration at 70+ mph. drivability is great below 70. also need to work on the tune some. its a real turd now since im use to the th350 and 9.5in converter.

Kyle.t91

nothing interesting to really say. i got a derale trans pan on while i was home from work this time. installed temp sensor on pan. temps never get above 140 so that is good. got new tires on so now if it rains it wont be scary to drive. the vibration is still there even after the wedges were installed. going to get the driveshaft checked out from a shop when i get back home. hopefully itll be out and that will be the end of the vibration.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

Converters can cause vibrations also. Are you measuring the trans, driveshaft/rear for the angle, all 3 need to be accounted for. The longer 80E sometimes throws things off, end up to much neg. degrees.
Hopefully you get that sorted out, I hate vibrations, lol.

Kyle.t91

its only a couple degrees neg(if that) angle from the rear end to driveshaft. the fib is coming from the back of the seat when i starts so im thinking its driveshaft. i got it from a local scrap yard so im leaning towards it wasnt handle with care lol. im going to get it checked first then go from there. the old driveshaft i had in there with this trans didnt vibrate as bad as this one but it was a little longer and it didnt leave much room for the yoke to slide inside the trans. (3/8 inch MAYBE) that was too close for comfort. i can also get that longer one shortened down if the current one is bent and cant be fixed.

Kyle.t91

out at work and started thinking. i now have that ebay fuel cell and as everyone knows the foam thats inside breaks down and clogs fuel pumps. i am not running a filter pre my aem 380 pump but have one after the pump. i have heard that the 380 is a great pusher pump but not that great of a puller. has anyone else heard this??? my question is....is there a filter i can install pre pump that wont cause the pump to struggle?