Can I do anything more to help this turbo spool on the t-brake?
#22
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
Hi, I like the Wet NOS method.
You could use Argon for better turbine safety.
A bottle of Argon from a gas welding supplier is low cost and easy to fit.
Plump a line into the turbine, fit a solenoid with a large orifice. (Industrial Grade)
I do have other methods if you are interested ?
Lance
You could use Argon for better turbine safety.
A bottle of Argon from a gas welding supplier is low cost and easy to fit.
Plump a line into the turbine, fit a solenoid with a large orifice. (Industrial Grade)
I do have other methods if you are interested ?
Lance
#24
So, right off the bat, my current cam is spec'd for an s488, 96mm turbine. I realize this isn't optimal for the GT5588 111.5mm turbine on the car now. That being said, it's taking me 3 seconds just to make 2psi of boost.
I've read over the other threads on spooling with the brake. I've got timing around 20 degrees at 100kpa - 2psi of boost - 5000ft of elevation. I'm seeing right at 12.5afr. Once the manifold sees around 110kpa, it takes off and builds boost pretty quickly.
Is there anything more I can do to decrease the lag from 85 to 100kpa, other than having Martin spec a new cam?
Thanks guys.
I've read over the other threads on spooling with the brake. I've got timing around 20 degrees at 100kpa - 2psi of boost - 5000ft of elevation. I'm seeing right at 12.5afr. Once the manifold sees around 110kpa, it takes off and builds boost pretty quickly.
Is there anything more I can do to decrease the lag from 85 to 100kpa, other than having Martin spec a new cam?
Thanks guys.
theres no reason to be pulling ANY timing before then and its fat. lean it out a little
#25
I've been very busy at work these past few days, but I really appreciate everybody's input.
One thing I have not been doing is using the foot brake before the trans brake. I've just been going straight to the t brake. I'll try the foot brake to t brake method and see if that helps.
John, I'll try leaning it out on low boost as you suggested, then I'll pull timing as others have said.
Hopefully my limited tuning experience is the problem here...I really don't want to have to spend any more money on a second power adder.
One thing I have not been doing is using the foot brake before the trans brake. I've just been going straight to the t brake. I'll try the foot brake to t brake method and see if that helps.
John, I'll try leaning it out on low boost as you suggested, then I'll pull timing as others have said.
Hopefully my limited tuning experience is the problem here...I really don't want to have to spend any more money on a second power adder.
Last edited by 98Zheadsncam; 05-17-2017 at 07:27 AM.
#29
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
hey man I was just thinking about this in another thread. I'm not sure what EMS you're on but here's some stuff to try if you are on the factory computer.
I used to need to use the sloppy brake/force 3rd gear mod to build boost
then RonSSnova had me set my PE table to start adding fuel at like 50% TPS instead of whatever 70% or 90% like I had it.
Also between the two tables PE&BE the computer defaults to the richest of the two, so make your PE the richest as it's much faster acting than the BE table.
Thats all I got. and if anyone sees issue please correct me.
I used to need to use the sloppy brake/force 3rd gear mod to build boost
then RonSSnova had me set my PE table to start adding fuel at like 50% TPS instead of whatever 70% or 90% like I had it.
Also between the two tables PE&BE the computer defaults to the richest of the two, so make your PE the richest as it's much faster acting than the BE table.
Thats all I got. and if anyone sees issue please correct me.
#31
So, I just opened my tune, and the first thing I noticed is that BE is set to be enabled at 104kpa. Well, being at 5000 feet of elevation, boost is actually anything over 85 kpa here..so...im going to set it to 85kpa enable and see what happens.
PE is set to 64 percent TPS.
PE is set to 64 percent TPS.