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Can I do anything more to help this turbo spool on the t-brake?

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Old 05-15-2017, 12:51 PM
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^ like it. it also makes welding your stainless hotside super easy
Old 05-15-2017, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi, I like the Wet NOS method.

You could use Argon for better turbine safety.

A bottle of Argon from a gas welding supplier is low cost and easy to fit.
Plump a line into the turbine, fit a solenoid with a large orifice. (Industrial Grade)

I do have other methods if you are interested ?

Lance
Or you could kill a fly with a shot gun.
Old 05-16-2017, 01:38 PM
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What forcefed said. I run -25 degree timing for 13.5psi at 3600rpm, where I WAS running -8 and getting 3.5psi at 38-3900 rpm.
Old 05-16-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Zheadsncam
So, right off the bat, my current cam is spec'd for an s488, 96mm turbine. I realize this isn't optimal for the GT5588 111.5mm turbine on the car now. That being said, it's taking me 3 seconds just to make 2psi of boost.

I've read over the other threads on spooling with the brake. I've got timing around 20 degrees at 100kpa - 2psi of boost - 5000ft of elevation. I'm seeing right at 12.5afr. Once the manifold sees around 110kpa, it takes off and builds boost pretty quickly.

Is there anything more I can do to decrease the lag from 85 to 100kpa, other than having Martin spec a new cam?

Thanks guys.
Leave the dang timing in the motor till 125 KPA

theres no reason to be pulling ANY timing before then and its fat. lean it out a little
Old 05-17-2017, 07:21 AM
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I've been very busy at work these past few days, but I really appreciate everybody's input.

One thing I have not been doing is using the foot brake before the trans brake. I've just been going straight to the t brake. I'll try the foot brake to t brake method and see if that helps.

John, I'll try leaning it out on low boost as you suggested, then I'll pull timing as others have said.


Hopefully my limited tuning experience is the problem here...I really don't want to have to spend any more money on a second power adder.

Last edited by 98Zheadsncam; 05-17-2017 at 07:27 AM.
Old 05-17-2017, 07:33 AM
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Easiest trick is to put a ptc 9.5 in
Old 05-18-2017, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Easiest trick is to put a ptc 9.5 in
This.

There isn't a better converter out there for 1000 bucks than the PTC 9.5
Old 05-18-2017, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin Smallwood
This.

There isn't a better converter out there for 1000 bucks than the PTC 9.5
I'm planning on doing a glide here soon...when I do that I'll get a new converter.
Old 05-19-2017, 01:41 PM
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hey man I was just thinking about this in another thread. I'm not sure what EMS you're on but here's some stuff to try if you are on the factory computer.

I used to need to use the sloppy brake/force 3rd gear mod to build boost

then RonSSnova had me set my PE table to start adding fuel at like 50% TPS instead of whatever 70% or 90% like I had it.

Also between the two tables PE&BE the computer defaults to the richest of the two, so make your PE the richest as it's much faster acting than the BE table.

Thats all I got. and if anyone sees issue please correct me.
Old 05-20-2017, 09:39 AM
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Interesting...I'll check it out. Thanks for throwing that out there.
Old 05-20-2017, 09:49 AM
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So, I just opened my tune, and the first thing I noticed is that BE is set to be enabled at 104kpa. Well, being at 5000 feet of elevation, boost is actually anything over 85 kpa here..so...im going to set it to 85kpa enable and see what happens.

PE is set to 64 percent TPS.



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