JoeNova

Actually, I've been doing tons of fuel pressure tests recently. I just need to compile some results and post them.

JoeNova

Some preliminary test results:
-Single AEM 380 through Pre/post spin-on goldenrod fuel filters and STOCK truck regulator: Nearly consistent 58 PSI.
--Pump does tend to make noise like it starving for fuel. I think its picking up air from the return dumping too close to the feed.
-Single AEM 380 under above mentioned conditions, but under boost with E85: Nearly consistent 58 PSI, plus 1 PSI of fuel pressure per PSI of boost until pump begins to top out.
--Pump seems to top out at a fairly normal level. Spin-on pre-filter doesn't seem to be much of a restriction. Still considering swapping it for a Hydramat to test fuel pump noise.

-Dual AEM 380 through Pre/post spin-on goldenrod fuel filters and STOCK truck regulator: Over 100 PSI of fuel pressure.
--Truck regulator cannot return enough fuel to keep pressure in check. However, 100% of the fuel is still seeing the injectors FIRST so its not a power restriction.
-Dual AEM 380 under above mentioned conditions, but under boost with E85: Fuel pressure will be high if kicked on before first pump starts to struggle.
--Kicking on at 8 PSI with ~66 PSI of fuel pressure caused pressure to spike to just over 80 PSI. Kicking on pump around 12+ PSI should keep pressure steady.

Of course, some of this is only relevant to my setup, but it shows the results of the pre and post spin-on filters and staggering pumps for a stock truck regulator.
Under the right circumstances, it should be possible to max out both pumps on a stock truck regulator without any major restriction.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Great info, thanks.

My AEM380 does the same. Might just be the nature of the pump. Mine is in a surge tank with the OEM pump filling it and the regular bypassing back into the surge. I don’t see much in the way of air getting in that system and the surge tank should stay pretty darn full. As my pump heats up I can hear it do the odd random surging noises too. FP remains steady the entire time. Are you running the check valves? I was wondering if they have something to do with it. I’ve been meaning to take the check valve out but haven’t had the chance.

LS1-IROC

iTrader: (4)

My old Walbro 255 intank pump would make the same noises, completely random, always sounded like cavitation to me. My new 450 Walbro is quiet as a mouse. Both had the same size lines, regulators, filters and injectors.

JoeNova

Here is an idle video that shows fuel pressure between a single and dual AEM380s and a stock truck regulator. This is on 80% ethanol with check valves in the pumps.

JoeNova

Doesn't look like it posted too well lol

JoeNova

I know I have been major slacking on actual results with the car, but its been one small problem after another.

1. Stock TH400.
-With the trans-go boost valve for the vacuum modulator, the transmission wants to shift at 4500, even after adjusting the modulator. It also creates a huge boost leak.
-For anyone wanting to run a vacuum modulated TH400, save your money and buy an ebay manual boost controller instead. Do NOT buy the transgo valve.
-Hook up the $15 ebay boost controller in reverse, so that boost will force the ball to close off the flow to the modulator, and vacuum will pull the ball away from the orifice.
-Works just as well for less than half the cost and MUCH less boost leak.

2. Stock big pattern converter from a diesel.
-This thing stalls like 1200 RPM behind a 4.8, and I'm running tractor fluid on top of it. Even at an 1100 RPM idle, it drops to ~600 in gear and tries to stall out.
-I have a custom spec PTC converter ready to go in, but I'm waiting on a built trans so I don't fill it with metal from a trashed stock trans.
-I'm flat broke LOL so no built trans anytime soon.

3. Possibly cracked 706 head on the driver side.
-Every time I make boost, I get a little bit of spray on my windshield and some smoke pouring out.
-It doesn't appear to be coming from the radiator, maybe one of the steam ports? I suspected a cracked head last year from a similar experience.
-It also looks like my transgo boost valve has smoke coming out of it under boost.
-It smells like coolant everytime I make boost now.

4. Lack of dyno time.
-My buddy recently sold his dyno. I don't have anywhere to dyno the car at a moments notice.
-I need diagnostic dyno time to figure out my issues. Next week is the quickest anyone can get me in, and I'll be 1000 miles away from home.

5. Hunt for a new engine.
-Looking to replace the 4.8 with an aluminum 5.3. I've done hundreds of calculations and simulations and the car will pick up drastically more than the .5L increase would normally amount to.
-Turbo efficiency, cam effectiveness both become wildly inflated swapping from a stock 4.8 to a 10.5:1 5.3.

5. Other projects.
-I've recently started building an engine dyno for small engines. Hydraulic brake dyno up to ~50 HP. I plan on doing back to back comparisons on parts and upgrades for common go kart engines for YouTube. Its nearly complete.
-80cc 2 stroke powerwheels for my daughter. Waiting on shaft collars and 2 pillow bearings and its done.
-Selling my house. Market value is through the roof. Neighbors sold their house last week for about $100k more than I owe on mine. Hoping to sell, put down payment on a bigger house with some land and a shop, pay off all of my debts, and finish both of my cars.

I'm a major slacker when it comes to posting updates. I've driven the car every single bright sunny day since I got it running again. I've even driven it in the pouring rain. Financial difficulties have become my biggest hang-up. Not really going through hard times or anything, just too much else going on to focus time and money into the cars.

Game ova

As much as you seem to like building contraptions and various gizmos, I'm surprised that you're not building your own transmission. It would be one of the easier things you've done.

JoeNova

Time is a major factor now, unfortunately. So I would need to get a spare transmission and build that. Its always an option, but I've been seeing lots of fully built TH400s popping up for $1200 lately. I'll probably snag one of those in about a month.

JoeNova

I swapped out the bad 706 head, ordered a built TH400, and managed to get dyno numbers on the stock TH400/stock converter.

Spoiler: It more than doubled the previous 300whp through a slipping trans, and did it on less than 200 kpa.
Converter slip was almost 20% at 7100.

Should be getting the new trans within the next 2 weeks.

JoeNova

Looks like there are big things planned this winter for the car.

Adding a few bars to the roll cage, installing the built+braked TH400/PTC converter, upgrading to MS3 Pro Evo, 220 lb injectors, redesigning the front steering geometry, and getting around to installing the electric power steering.

I made ~600whp on the dyno on just 11 PSI with the 4.8, shutting down at 6000 RPM. Power was climbing hard.
I've had it 17 PSI and 7200 RPM. The Deka 80s are maxed with 60 PSI base pressure and twin 380s at that point on E85. Thinking somewhere around 750whp.

jordoza

Damn nice numbers for such a light vehicle. I wish i had started with a lighter vehicle at this point.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Joe,

What hardware do you plan to use for the EPS? I am in the middle of installing EPS in my Cougar. More details in my build thread, but I am using the Toyota hardware with the Yaris non-ABS ECU and the plan is to make it speed sensitive by integrating it with my Dominator ECU.

Andrew

JoeNova

Its a Saturn Vue column from the junkyard. Welding the brackets from my C4 column onto it and welding a rag joint on the cut down steering shaft.
$70 automatic controller from ebay. It uses the torque sensor in the column to adjust rate of assist. No ***** or programming to deal with.
When you're on the highway making small corrections at speed, it provides less assist than if you were in a parking lot doing lock to lock turns.

Should have $150 in the whole setup once finished. I already have most of the parts, but I've been putting it off for months now. I need to get it done.

JoeNova

Car is running on MS3Pro.
I'm using a dual VR conditioner to feed the stock ABS sensors into MS3 for VSS1/VSS2 traction control.
Also using speed/braking to control the rear wing, which is nice.
I've setup an Arduino Mega to read pressure sensors and send the data to MS3 over CAN (SOOOOOO much easier to send data TO MS3 than Micro, reading is the same),
allowing me to run pressure transducers for water/fuel/oil and pre-intercooler on both sides. Also looking into running backpressure sensors, but with 4 turbos all using divided flanges, its not ideal.

From what I can tell, the record for the quickest D36 rear diff is 10.97. Hoping to break that by a full second this April/May on the 4.8.
The L33 from my Nova is going into this car with a set of heads and intake when the 4.8 decides to let go.

svslow

Was the goal of this to reduce the number of inputs being taken up?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Gonna be one bad unit! Can't wait to see it.

JoeNova

Inputs and wiring.

The MS3Pro EVO plug and play harness doesn't come with a spare 5v. I was going to use the MAP sensor connector and get a 12" MAP extension harness made for using a timing cover cam sensor and cut the wires for 5v/ground supply. The harness for ms3 is extremely nice and very expensive so cutting into it isn't an option.

With the Arduino, I can use a screw terminal shield to run all sensor grounds, 5v, and analog data to the arduino and then just 2 CAN wires to the megasquirt.

One arduino mega gives me 16 more analog inputs, 54 digital input/outputs, 15 PWM outputs, all of which are more programmable than what MS3 alone offers. It's the greatest I/O expander out there.

NSFW

...and it really makes me wonder why there isn't an Arduino-based ECU on the market yet. Seems like it shouldn't be that hard to make a companion board with injector drivers, coil drivers, crank/cam sensors, a couple/few solenoid drivers... and a github repo for the software to drive everything. I'd go with an Arduino Due for the faster CPU, but a Mega might still be plenty. If not, the companion board could handle the high-precision timer stuff - it would add some hardware complexity but it still seems like it should be practical.

JoeNova

Speeduino. Mega based stand-alone ECU comparable to microsquirt with a few trade-offs. Uses TunerStudio.
I have one I ordered months ago for a Go-Kart project that I'll probably never get around to now.
Its constantly being updated with new features and hardware.