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No major updates, but I have ordered a ton of parts for the car.
I used cheap $15 Fasster fuel filters. Definitely a no-go. I wouldn't recommend them to ANYONE. The 150 micron pre-pump filter clogged almost immediately after I fought lean issues up until I hit the dyno a few weeks ago. They're a bronze ball-type medium. Not only do they flow about as well as an OEM fuel filter or worse, but the rubber filter element surround disintegrated after about 1 hour of use, clogging up the filter and sending chunks of rubber into the pump. Also, I ordered 2 filters from them at the same time. A 150 micron, and a 30 micron. They couldn't tell me which was which when they arrived. I had to take them apart and determine that myself. Once I remove the rest of the fiberglass rear tub and delete the ABS, I'm going to remount the battery and re-plumb the fuel system between the cell and the post-pump filter, so I'll be going to Spin-on fuel filters.
Also, I ditched the Teensy arduino board and have been experimenting more lately.
I have to get on the ball with these youtube videos. I've done away with the ignition switch, added a couple of relays, and the car now starts with a fingerprint scanner. I gives a 1 second prime, 3 second crank. If the RPM goes above 400, it stops cranking. If it doesn't start in 3 seconds, I get a red blink and I try again. I temporarily had it starting with an IR receiver and my TV remote.
I'm going to have to upgrade the rear-end soon as well. I've been tossing around the idea of putting a 5th gen Camaro complete IRS setup back there, but we will see. The IRS setup in these C4s is a complex nightmare.
I've been considering that, but there are pros/cons.
The Dana 44 from the 6-speed is a bolt-in swap. As long as I get the parts, I could have it out/in in a single day thanks to having no body panels in the way.
The problem is cost, and cost/reliability. A complete C4 dana 44 setup with all of the needed parts comes in at 1200-1500 and that doesn't include rear spindles, brakes, axles, etc in most cases. A complete drop-out 5th gen rear end with everything, including brakes, is 600-800. Mounting it won't be a problem when I do the cage. Its still a debate. If a C4 D44 falls in my lap, I'll definitely use it, but there are 5th gen rear ends everywhere around here.
Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Were the filters like these?
Same exact filter. The inside of the body is lined with a rubber sleeve. It quickly fell apart, clogging my filter. I knew something was up when it would fall on its face above 50% throttle. I opened the filter up, and there was a LOT of shredded pieces of rubber laying across the opening. So much that I couldn't even see the brass filter. My post-pump filter has started coming apart now too. I'm really trying to raise the funds for a bender/notcher so I can start work on the cage and replacing some of the temporary mounting solutions I have now.
Probably seems like I don't post any real updates on the car anymore... so I'm going to post another update that doesn't really involve the car haha.
I just finished my handheld wideband grapher/datalogger. Should make doing small carb adjustments a breeze. Now you don't have to stare at a gauge while tweaking idle screws or accelerator pumps or determining jet sizes. It graphs and saves the data on an SD card. Total cost, $35.
I used the vette to learn how to make it read frequency, and I used the micro tach output to datalog RPM along with AFR. Last night I got a keychain RFID chip to work as the ignition in the vette lol.
I'm not saying I'm trying to create a modern-day KITT, but if I keep this up the car will be talking to me by the end of the year.
Is it the kind that needs to be waved over the sensor or can you keep it in your pocket, similar to modern luxury vehicles?
I'd sure like the "in your pocket" variety, but haven't been able to source enough info to pull the trigger on the project yet.
This one is a scanner. Getting an RFID that's strong enough to detect a key a few feed away is going to be hard with an Arduino.
The solution would be to use Bluetooth. Bluetooth adapters for Arduino are roughly the same price as the RFID setup. You could just have it use your phone as a key. The biggest issue is distance approximation isn't very good, so if you were 10-15 feet from the key, it would still be able to start. Most OEM systems have this same exact problem, so its not as if you're at a disadvantage.
Bluetooth would work perfect for in "in your pocket" remote start.
This one is a scanner. Getting an RFID that's strong enough to detect a key a few feed away is going to be hard with an Arduino.
The solution would be to use Bluetooth. Bluetooth adapters for Arduino are roughly the same price as the RFID setup. You could just have it use your phone as a key. The biggest issue is distance approximation isn't very good, so if you were 10-15 feet from the key, it would still be able to start. Most OEM systems have this same exact problem, so its not as if you're at a disadvantage.
Bluetooth would work perfect for in "in your pocket" remote start.
My needs are a little specific. It's for a boat and I want to clip the FOB to my life vest or or shorts, so that if I get ejected from the boat, it shuts down... and wont start unless the FOB is within set parameters.
In the little I was able to gather, it looks like I'd most likely need an active system vs. passive. I'm fine with a little battery in the FOB that periodically needs changing. The part I couldn't find much info on was programming any sort of proximity definition. I "assume" it would have to be something along the lines of On/Off at a designated signal -dB. I'd need it down to about 36 inches and repeatable within 6" or so.
Some of the new cars, if the FOB is inside the vehicle it works. Hold it out the window, it doesn't. Just not sure how they do it, and not so entirely pumped up enough on the project to figure it out... Yet. LOL
Perhaps, multiple receivers and triangulation to pinpoint the FOB location? Dunno. But, if you come across more info along your journey, I'd like to hear about it.
1m is about the maximum range you'll get reliably before you have to spend big money for an Ultra-high frequency RFID scanner, which is very expensive.
6" repeatability for a boat ejection system seems a bit overkill. If you're ejected from the boat, 60' would probably still be safe repeatable.
You can use triangulation to determine distance and location fairly easily, but the cost is going to be high for what you're trying to do.
Cool project, just getting it plumbed and running seems like a feat. I don't know half of that other language you guys speak, but I dig the mech aspect of it, lol
So a few things are going to be happening here soon.
I've been having issues with the 220-240k mile valve springs floating above 5500 RPM. Its pretty bad when you combine it with a converter that instantly flashes to 5500 RPM when boost hits. So I picked up some PAC1218s, new head gaskets, and a cam.
Since the car is basically a novelty toy to me, I went with something a bit overkill.
226/232 110+4. Should sound nasty in a 4.8, but I don't have the same restrictions that a typical turbo setup does. My exhaust isn't nearly as restrictive so I can get away with the 9 degrees of overlap. The low LSA should help bring power in very hard. I've also decided to add a meth kit so I can pour in the power.
Right now I gauge the HP as follows (at the crank):
Stock 4.8 with lots of valve float: 250 HP
Stock 4.8 with valve float and 8 PSI: 375 HP
Upgrades should put me in this general area:
4.8 with PAC1218s and no float: 300 HP
4.8 with PAC1218s and 8 PSI: 450 HP
4.8 with 226/232 cam, springs, tune: 425 HP
4.8 with cam, springs, tune and 8 PSI: 630 HP
4.8 with cam, springs, tune and 16 PSI: 850 HP.
It should be noted that since these turbos are only moving 1.2L of engine each, they are VERY efficient in the 2.5-3 bar range. I should be able to crack 1000 at the crank on 24-26 lbs, which would put the engine exactly in line with the 5.3 L33 with smaller cam and Billet S480 in my Nova. The engine will be going on the engine dyno hopefully by the end up September and I'm going to finally put some real boost through it!
Now the search begins for injectors to handle the extra power. Surprisingly at ~375 flywheel HP they are only pushing 50% duty cycle. Not bad for stock decapped truck injectors. I might end up adding a 2nd AEM 380 as well.
The cam is a Howard's cam. I used the same exact cam on a 115 LSA in a 5.3 Chevelle and loved it. This one just has 5 degrees less LSA and 10 more degrees of overlap.
07-11-2017, 11:59 AM
