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I basically plug it in and forget about it.
I haven't had one fail, I have about 3 months on one of them and its still going. HPT does a decent job of smoothing out the input data as well, so I don't have to worry about doing anything there either. I've thought about using an accelerometer for traction control. I could adjust boost or active aero based on cornering forces.
On a side note, the paddle shifter setup is in the car now, as is the GPS module. Everything fit perfect. The telescopic steering column is becoming a major issue, though. Once you take the column apart, it basically just slides out. So I'm going to weld it. Also, the tilt joint wobbles a bit, so I can grab and move the steering wheel around a lot more than I like. Tonight I'm going to mount the LCD for the gear indicator and I will take some pictures. I picked up a 3-port MAC valve and I'll work on boost be speed tonight.
I cut up a lot of the back of the car to prepare for a cage. I removed the ABS unit and all of the brake lines to redo them an install the line-lock.
Between that and the Halo was 50+ pounds. I'm expecting to pick up 150-200 with a cage so I'm researching places to save weight. I would like to get another 50 lbs out before I cage it. I'm sure at some point I'll ditch the leafs for coilovers, but for now I'm flat broke.
Paddle shifters installed with a temporary hub/wheel.
I'm thinking about taking out my steering column and making a solid shaft column and welding a 6-bolt flange directly onto it. The column is telescopic/tilt and its falling apart honestly. There is 1/2" - 1" play in it when I grab the wheel.
Using GPS for speedo/traction control is a NO GO. The GPS module is just too unreliable. One minute I'll be connected to 16 satellites with <1m accuracy, the next I'm cruising up and down my street trying to get a single satellite to connect. Way too unreliable for boost/traction control. I will be using the front and rear ABS sensors for boost control and traction control. Ugh, the programming is MUCH more tedious than the GPS module.
I've programmed the shifts and got the shift indicator screen programmed. I'm going to 3D print a hood for it to keep it out of direct sunlight, and then I'll mount it in the car. These pics are almost a week old so it has changed quite a bit.
If this ends up being a permanent addition to the car, or even an opportunity for profit, I'm going to take the 3D printer files and have the parts cut out of 1/8" aluminum with a waterjet.
Thats a stinker. No way to put some sort of BA external antenna on the gps module? Believe the qstar 10hz gps and accelerometer deal i have has an output
I had heard u can use the LS cam/crank sensors for wheel speed. Might save u some $ if you have them laying around.
Yeah I can upgrade the antenna, but the cost effectiveness isn't there. The GPS module itself is $5 and I haven't had any problems out of it until tonight. Once is enough. I would hate to be racing and lose signal, and the traction control kick in and cut my boost down to wastegate. Using the front wheels is fool proof. The sensor/reluctor is already there. If I had to write the code for the rear ABS, then the code for the front ABS should be identical. The only problem with using both ABS signals is that it interferes with the refresh rate on the PWM output for the boost solenoid.
I should have it working before the weekend is over. Then the LAST thing left to do is program the 3 Port MAC valve. If I have any analog inputs left on the arduino when I'm done, I'll wire in a 5v pressure sensor for closed loop control. If not, I bought a few rotary encoders to make a simple **** controlled traction control and boost control system.
Will this style $3 antenna work? I wouldn’t’ mind having the GPS display for a simple speedometer display on the dash. I use my phone or the laptop when I need it, but I’d like a more permanently installed cheap solution. Farting around with tablets and cellphones tied into the MS Bluetooth is a pain to setup every time you start the car.
Also if the worst thing that happened with a signal interrupt was the boost dropping I could live with that. My dash mounted garmin GPS was really bad until Installed a decent external antenna. Was pretty rock solid after that.
Yeah, that would work fine with the GPS module I use. I could probably stop cheaping out on everything and buy a decent GPS module to see if it makes a difference, but for $5, I couldn't resist. When trying to get it to connect, I did some searching and noticed a LOT of people had issues getting a good signal with their arduino GPS modules. I don't know if it has something to do with the type of satellites used, or maybe they don't have access to the satellites used on Android/Apple devices?
For an arduino, GPS module, power adapter, and LCD screen, it could be done for $25-30 without going insanely cheap on everything.
I forgot to mention, adding speed based boost control to that setup would be insanely easy. You could set min/max duty cycle and speed via *****, push buttons that use the LCD speedo screen for your settings (probably the way to go), or just plug in and change numbers with the laptop. The only cost would be a 3-port valve. No extra hardware required (except ***** or buttons).
Also, I did a half-assed video last night at 1 AM. I was tired as hell but couldn't sleep (beta blocker withdrawals) so I was in monotone zombie mode. After the video, I managed to program the paddle shifters to bring up a menu on the LCD screen so I can change settings without my laptop. This is probably the most useful side project I've ever done.
I'm having a lot of issues finding the reluctor tooth count for the corvette ABS. Its not something you can physically see without taking the whole spindle apart. The formula I was using for ABS traction control before was pretty rough. Instead of counting the reluctor teeth, I was outputting the raw pulses, and then using the GPS module to get speed, and dividing it by a random number to get close. This makes it pretty much impossible to discern between different front/rear tire sizes and reluctor tooth counts, and would have to be done for each and every vehicle this way.
I'm come up with a way to easily get the tooth count, but for now I've found another way.
I ordered a $28 Dakota Digital TH400 electric speedometer adapter. I plug it into the cable speedo slot on the trans, run it to the arduino, and I just need to create variables for rear gear and tire size and I get a perfect rear wheel speed. For now I can use the GPS with an upgraded antenna, and my traction control is done with minimal effort.
ISR won't work for this. Too slow and I can only use one.
I really need to stop tinkering with this thing.
I made load sensors to attach to the suspension so I can test downforce on the fly with active aero. Thats a project for next spring/summer. For now, the paddle shifter setup is on hold. I'm shifting focus back to CAN BUS connection of microsquirt so I can get this thing to idle again.
I placed an order for roll cage material. I have to go pick it up in the next couple of weeks. The car is officially down for winter.
Unless I have a major update or breakthrough, I probably won't have much to post here.
Since I am wanting to keep my col shift in the Nova, I have been looking at paddle shifters for the 80E trans-I wanted to keep the stock steering wheel,
but all the paddles use an aftermarket wheel-I would have to make up a spacer, etc, may just have to go aftermarket
Cool stuff your doing
Reads all of the data from microsquirt over CAN BUS.
I might take out the kPa box and re-arrange so that the bottom right box is a config button (this is a touch screen) that can be used to adjust the settings for what KPA to turn on water/meth and 2nd fuel pump, what coolant temp to turn on the fans, etc. I'll probably put traction control settings on the touch screen as well.
Its almost midnight and the engine is way too loud to fire up, but I'll get the screen tested tomorrow after work. I'll start working on the config portion of it tomorrow, but for now it should be a 100% functioning gauge cluster.
Engine is waiting to go on the dyno. I was going to do it a few months ago but decided to overhaul the entire fuel setup and take it with me. Now I have a pair of AEM380s running on a PWM setup, spin-on pre/post filters.
I need to start on the cage as well. I have the car picked clean and the materials here. I got distracted buying a Mercury Zephyr, turning my daughter's pink power wheels hummer into a gas powered drifter, and taking my Nova apart.
Fuel system. Pair of AEM 380s, 10-micron Pre/post filters. They flow like 5000 LPH so the 10-micron pre-filter shouldn't be a restriction. Will go under the back of the car sideways, mounted directly below the fuel cell.
My new Cooper Zeon RS3s in 325/30/19 are here as well. Hopefully it won't be much longer before I reveal the new look lol.
Oops. Forgot. Total cost of everything there. All fittings, filters, filter heads, pumps, brackets, etc. $493.98. Not bad for 2000 HP worth of fuel pump WITH high flow spin on filters, and all brackets/fittings.
-8 In/out for now since the car is already setup for it. Changing to 10 AN will only require 2 new fittings, which I already have.
This setup is pretty much a trial for another project I have started planning and gathering parts for. If it works well, I'll likely be going back to a single AEM 380 in this car.
Solid state relays are for other things, like my fuel injector testers and PWM pump setups.
10-10-2017, 07:25 AM
