Has anyone tried the FItech 70050/70051
#661
No, I am connecting thru hand held, laptop-hand held-ecu. Only using the hand held for connection to ecu and for gauges. When you use the procal on the laptop you don't use the hand held for programming anymore, only for connection to ecu.
Last edited by H.P.Ranch1; 07-22-2018 at 06:21 PM.
#662
h
only after you do the newest update , then yes in setup menu at the bottom after you've picked cam, engine size, reluctor etc it'll ask na or super on handheld.
Even then I wouldn't run boost to this system without correcting the 1-4cam afr chart/big spark table/turning returnless fuel option off in procal
only after you do the newest update , then yes in setup menu at the bottom after you've picked cam, engine size, reluctor etc it'll ask na or super on handheld.
Even then I wouldn't run boost to this system without correcting the 1-4cam afr chart/big spark table/turning returnless fuel option off in procal
#664
The Driver is in the Fitech software install folder, after installing the Procal SW you then will find a drivers folder in the fitech folder. It is in c:\program files (x86)\fitech. This KLINE driver is the gateway from your laptop thru the handheld to the ecu. After installing drivers connect your laptop to handheld connected to ecu with key on. Your handheld will give you 3 choices select Kline this opens the door to the ecu. On laptop top left select connect and it should show connected at the top. Click on gauges and your gauges at the bottom should be active. Good luck.
Last edited by H.P.Ranch1; 07-23-2018 at 06:16 PM.
#667
Alternator
Does anyone know if this kit will work with the alternator plug not connected.
My problem is I have a GTO style alternator(because that’s what all the ls engines in australia use).
I can make the alternator work as a stand-alone.
I have been searching and searching to see if I could mod the fitech plug to work on the gto alternator, I have come up stumped.
if I have to I’ll spend the $250 for a new alternator but I’d rather not.
Any help is appreciated
My problem is I have a GTO style alternator(because that’s what all the ls engines in australia use).
I can make the alternator work as a stand-alone.
I have been searching and searching to see if I could mod the fitech plug to work on the gto alternator, I have come up stumped.
if I have to I’ll spend the $250 for a new alternator but I’d rather not.
Any help is appreciated
#671
thanks but doesn't really help.fitech do use B & C but I've read different things on what they are actually connected to so without knowing where they go it's a gamble trying to connect it to my alternator. I'd hate to connect it wrong on cook something.
#673
#674
That's MISTER MODERATOR
iTrader: (9)
Does anyone know if this kit will work with the alternator plug not connected.
My problem is I have a GTO style alternator(because that’s what all the ls engines in australia use).
I can make the alternator work as a stand-alone.
I have been searching and searching to see if I could mod the fitech plug to work on the gto alternator, I have come up stumped.
if I have to I’ll spend the $250 for a new alternator but I’d rather not.
Any help is appreciated
My problem is I have a GTO style alternator(because that’s what all the ls engines in australia use).
I can make the alternator work as a stand-alone.
I have been searching and searching to see if I could mod the fitech plug to work on the gto alternator, I have come up stumped.
if I have to I’ll spend the $250 for a new alternator but I’d rather not.
Any help is appreciated
What I learned is the GTO has a specific Mitsubishi alternator with a different plug than all other LS applications. You've learned this also.
There is no swap plug or way to make it work from a PCM setup for the other alternator styles.
Your options are trying to get a Camaro/Firebird CS144 alternator to fit OR like you said you can, trick the original to self excite.
I would recommend against a one wire alternator because they don't self excite and produce amps until the engine speed is high. At idle, it just spins.
Good luck!
#675
The Fitech and OEM harness just sends switched 12v to the alt to excite it. A one wire self exciting removes the need for the wire. To run it on another type of alt you just need to figure out which wire on the alt needs the juice and it can be adapted.
#676
OK sir, I've also done some searching and also didn't come up with a solution for your problem.
What I learned is the GTO has a specific Mitsubishi alternator with a different plug than all other LS applications. You've learned this also.
There is no swap plug or way to make it work from a PCM setup for the other alternator styles.
Your options are trying to get a Camaro/Firebird CS144 alternator to fit OR like you said you can, trick the original to self excite.
I would recommend against a one wire alternator because they don't self excite and produce amps until the engine speed is high. At idle, it just spins.
Good luck!
What I learned is the GTO has a specific Mitsubishi alternator with a different plug than all other LS applications. You've learned this also.
There is no swap plug or way to make it work from a PCM setup for the other alternator styles.
Your options are trying to get a Camaro/Firebird CS144 alternator to fit OR like you said you can, trick the original to self excite.
I would recommend against a one wire alternator because they don't self excite and produce amps until the engine speed is high. At idle, it just spins.
Good luck!
#677
Looking at which system to buy, kinda stuck on wanting the Holley Dominator so not to outgrow it. Was going to stay with ls oem for this car but a quality base tune from a pro tuner and a harness adds up to too much $$ for what it is but maybe. Reading this thread to eval the FITech, before spending my money, seems it is a bargain but a bit immature at this point from the reading i have done on these many pages and nothing wrong with that for a newish system as it seems to have good community support that is going well. Community support gets a lot of cars running on every system. I personally think I want a system ready for prime time and this seems to be the oem with pro help to get a base or the Holley. With that said, I am still keeping my options open to learn all I can through the next two weeks until LSFest weekend and then pull the trigger there or after I get home. If there was a lsfest sale on Holley I'd leap !! Have to say this FiTech is price appropriate for it's current place in the market. Still considering it. Holley may be under supported to an extent but if the hardware as well as software is much more mature and more solid it does not need as much support.
#678
Hindsight 20/20 deal id went Holley hp at least, the fitech sux ***** in comparison 👎 I've fought it all summer long and still have the ******* fluctuations of the map sensor in boost which also shows up on the bouncing boost gauge(it's nice and new, not gauge!) I've talked to several guys with different setups that all are fighting the map fluctuations for no reasons👿 I have 1 more month of boating season and if I don't have it squared away by the end of that, it goes up for sale to fund the holley system. I've learned procal as much as I can , it's ****
#679
Hindsight 20/20 deal id went Holley hp at least, the fitech sux ***** in comparison 👎 I've fought it all summer long and still have the ******* fluctuations of the map sensor in boost which also shows up on the bouncing boost gauge(it's nice and new, not gauge!) I've talked to several guys with different setups that all are fighting the map fluctuations for no reasons👿 I have 1 more month of boating season and if I don't have it squared away by the end of that, it goes up for sale to fund the holley system. I've learned procal as much as I can , it's ****
I would be looking at the sensor, the wiring for a loose connection etc. I couldn’t understand your comment about the gauge also fluctuating? So you MaP sensor and your boost gauge (seperate) are both showing fluctuations in boost? Sounds like a dead spot almost or mechanical? Valve springs? Lifters? Are u getting knock in the boost fluctuations?