Hot Karl

iTrader: (10)

Well I'm in quite the pickle....

I'm working on a turbo build and I swapped out the stock K member for the BMR turbo k member. When we went to install it, we had a lot of difficultly lining everything up. Eventually I was able to get all the nuts and bolts in by myself, so I didn't think much of it. However, last night I went to install the driveshaft and it will not line up. It may be difficult to see, but it's sitting on the right side of the driveshaft loop. The driveshaft will not slide on to the teeth spline in the transmission. For reference, I've removed the engine before, and did not have these issues on my first reinstall of the engine/transmission. The kmember guide pins are lined up in the frame and the torque arm is installed. No the car has not been wrecked (I've owned it for 14 years and got it when it had 7k miles on it and it was in perfect condition).

KCS

iTrader: (20)

What did BMR say when you talked to them?

svslow

I've never worked on an F body, but is there a chance the engine mounts are different side to side and you have them backwards?

Hot Karl

iTrader: (10)

The engine mounts are the UMI aluminum solid mounts. I mounted both in the "up" position. I know they had a lot of these a while ago that needed to be mounted upside down, but I thought that issue had been addressed.

Hot Karl

iTrader: (10)

I haven't spoken with them yet.

Chrisingermany

I had a set that were incorrectly marked and trust me you wont be able to get the large motor mount bolts through the solid ones with them installed upside down.

The K-members have some wiggle room as the bolt holes are slightly larger than the bolts. A small 1/4" adjustment of the k-member might equal an inch down by the driveshaft. I would loosen all 6 k-member bolts a little bit and try and wiggle it around and see if you can get some clearance back.

Hot Karl

iTrader: (10)

Just got off the phone with the guys at BMR. This is an issue they've been seeing quite a bit of, specifically with solid motor mounts. It doesn't always happen, but when it does it's normally due to the combination of an aftermarket k member with the solid motor mount. I was told this issue has come up several times and that it's not limited to one brand of solid motor mount. My options are to either dremel out the hole in the mount or k member, or get different mounts.

What I might do first is loosen the mounts and see if the engine readjusts slightly, then tighten them back down. If not, I'll just have to think about what to do. I really don't want to go back to poly mounts...

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

i had same issue... i had to change around the motor mounts to get it straight.

Hot Karl

iTrader: (10)

To clarify, when you say change around you mean swap the two sides, not change them out completely correct?

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

this was several years ago, I believe they were marked wrong so I had to flip one upside down I believe to get the motor straight.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Did you ever fix the issue?

Finally installed the 4L80 and its off, urg.

Game ova

It should be a sin to install that torque converter, it's gorgeous.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

I hear ya, its cost should be a sin a well

silvea

iTrader: (1)

I've got a big hammer we can make anything line up ��

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I would cut the damn loop off and reweld it. Seems like the simplest solution.

Hot Karl

iTrader: (10)

Sorry for the late reply. For whatever reason I haven't been getting notifications from the thread....

I moved at the beginning of June, so it took me a while to get back to the car. Switched both solid mounts to a new set of polys. Needless to say the damn thing is still off.

I'm really pissed off about this, mainly because I wasted 2 weekends (and money) swapping those mounts with the motor in the car and it still doesn't work. I knew better when the BMR guys told me it was the mounts. I'm an engineer and it was obvious to me that a mount with 5 holes is a lot less likely to be out of tolerance than an entire front suspension with who knows how many welds in addition to more holes. And just in case anyone is unsure of my ability (a fair question to ask) I had just installed a new UMI k member on another car about 1.5 months prior with the same solid mounts and aside from having to work the A-arms a bit, we had no issue whatsoever. I've also done multiple motor pulls/swaps/installs and this by far has been the worst.

My next decision will be to try to see if I can work the damn transmission over enough to get it to line up (which didn't work last time even after managing to get the transmission brace installed), or bitch and complain about the unsatisfactory piece of garbage I have in an effort to get a replacement.

</rant>

Game ova

Man that sucks. But I'm not sure I would try and force/prybar the transmission into place being that far out. I have visions of something breaking when you go to throw down on it.

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

I had to put my car on a drive on lift and use ratchet straps to pull mine straighter. I wound up shimming my DSL to get it centered the rest of the way. I've installed 2 of these and had an issue both times.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

not BMR but the aje member i just put in needed some "attitude adjustment" with a come along.

my guess is they tack them up on a fixture then weld them out on a table, and they pull while welding.

I see some cutting and welding in your future.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I'd try and put some stock mounts on and confirm if it's the k or the mounts. We had zero issues dropping a buddy's BMR turbo k in his car but it was stock mounts and a 6 speed car.