Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

What made you switch from procharger to turbo?

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Old 06-13-2017, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
There is a 49 page thread about the kit on ls1gto so I spent some time reading through that last night. It looks like there were a ton of issues with that kit, but in his defense he did stick around to help work through them rather than disappearing. They also made an install video and posted it to youtube to help people out. Even with all of that I'm going to stay away from it.

There really has never been much support for the GTO from the after market. It's to small of a market for people to regain their R & D costs and the stuff that is available to us is way over priced for the most part.

There also seems to be the issue of more car to car variance with GTO's than most other cars. This seems to make the GTO much more in need of a custom kit.

I do have a close friend that is a welder fabricator and builds old hot rods. I can have him look at the car and see what he thinks. I also have a friend near by with a 2002 Vette making 1200+ rwhp. Last I knew he was running a 408 with a Vortech blower. Oh and he is also still running an RPM built 4l60e and IRS. There is a Vortech kit for the GTO, but hardly anyone uses it and I'm not sure if their bigger blower can be used with that kit without a lot of fabrication.

So really my best options at this point seem to be a big stroker with spray or a procharger. I've already had a GTO with a 408 and spray and I don't want to do that again.
As already said, you can easily fit a YSi, you most certainly do not need a bigger blower than that for your power goals. Plenty have done it, I've done it and it works great.

But ensure you go for as many ribs as possible, and a good strong spring tensioner. I've already shown some of Marks Workshops work down under. CAPA sells most of those parts, but they could well be generic Vortech parts anyway or you can DIY some stuff.

You are not re-inventing the wheel here, pretty much anything you want to do with a blower has already been done. Less so with turbos as most are custom installs.

The Goat kits seem very similar to the APS stuff and could be worth a shout....but they're based around RHD vehicles, so whether they will work on US LHD...don't know.

Really..make life simple. Just fit a Vortech or Procharger.
Old 06-13-2017, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
As already said, you can easily fit a YSi, you most certainly do not need a bigger blower than that for your power goals. Plenty have done it, I've done it and it works great.

But ensure you go for as many ribs as possible, and a good strong spring tensioner. I've already shown some of Marks Workshops work down under. CAPA sells most of those parts, but they could well be generic Vortech parts anyway or you can DIY some stuff.

You are not re-inventing the wheel here, pretty much anything you want to do with a blower has already been done. Less so with turbos as most are custom installs.

The Goat kits seem very similar to the APS stuff and could be worth a shout....but they're based around RHD vehicles, so whether they will work on US LHD...don't know.

Really..make life simple. Just fit a Vortech or Procharger.
Thank you for all of your honest input. I'm pretty sure I'm going to wind up with a procharger. I just wanted to look into every possible option.
Old 06-13-2017, 08:20 AM
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What's the deal with the Vortech's aftercooler? Looks like it pumps continuous coolant. I can't find much the setups on f-bodys - sorry OP - but I see that they were a decent amount of cars around years back. I'm not asking just for my car specifically, I'm curious how people are running Vortechs today. No IC, FMIC, aftercooler? Why don't we hear more about Vortech? Whenever I do hear the name it's always on a vehicle like OP's friends example where it's making a S ton of HP.

I'm actually thinking rear mounts might be a good option too, lol.

Last edited by AnotherWs6; 06-13-2017 at 08:27 AM.
Old 06-13-2017, 08:27 AM
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Run whatever cooler suits your needs.

The basic FBody kit was never really a big power setup, RMCR offered better setups for Vortechs

http://rmcrperformance.com/products-...t-race-interc/
Old 06-13-2017, 08:45 AM
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Awesome, thanks for that.

Just curious as to why we hear so much more about prochargers here than we do about Vortechs.
Old 06-13-2017, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
Awesome, thanks for that.

Just curious as to why we hear so much more about prochargers here than we do about Vortechs.
I've been wondering the same thing. There is a Vortech kit for the GTO, but no one runs it. The corvettes I've seen running Vortech blowers all make big power though.
Old 06-13-2017, 01:10 PM
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Some people have swapped a Vette kit into a GTO....huge amount of work though.

Loads of Ozzie kits ( various Holden cars, but all LS engines. )

http://www.capa.com.au/kits_holden.htm

Their universal LS kit places blower on the other side...not sure if that would help or hinder fitment

http://www.capa.com.au/kits_gm_lsx.htm
Old 06-13-2017, 01:39 PM
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Your only 8 hours out from Huron speed. Get a price quote from them for a turbo kit! They build the best and they could have your car in shop to have it even more perfect.. I bet they would have some time on there hands when stuff calms down in october..
Old 06-13-2017, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
I've been wondering the same thing. There is a Vortech kit for the GTO, but no one runs it. The corvettes I've seen running Vortech blowers all make big power though.
Maybe we don't hear about them because this sit is focused mostly on 4th gen f-bodies right now and Vortech doesn't make a kit anymore. I'll tell you what, now that I know there is somebody out there that can make a kit for my car I am mildy hard. And a top mount. Def got a semi.
Old 06-14-2017, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sweet99ss
Your only 8 hours out from Huron speed. Get a price quote from them for a turbo kit! They build the best and they could have your car in shop to have it even more perfect.. I bet they would have some time on there hands when stuff calms down in october..
If they made a kit for the GTO I would definitely consider it. I just kind of assumed any custom turbo setup would be more $$$ than I care to spend. I really don't have a reason to switch from Speed inc either. They've done a heads and cam for me, they built my 408, they did my current cam install, and Jim has done all of my tuning for me. I've been happy with everything they've done for me. I've never ran forced induction before though. Just my old turbo Buick, but when I hurt that motor we swapped to an old carbed 350 with my dads help because that is what he knew how to tune.
Old 06-14-2017, 12:33 PM
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Call and get a price quote for a turbo kit. Can't be much more then the 8k you would spend on a procharger setup...
Old 06-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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What about hitting these guys up as someone pointed out several posts back when asking about Vortech? They seem to work with all kinds of cars, I bet you wouldn't be the first GTO they've come across.

http://rmcrperformance.com/
Old 06-17-2017, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Is there any benefit to going with the race intercooler for my power goals? If I'm going to need it for my 700 rwhp goal I want to get it right up front when I start the build. Same thing with the fuel system...When the fuel system must be done for E85 I want it to be able to support my 700 rwhp goal easily so it's done even when I'm on low boost with the stock motor. Go with the race valve right from the beginning as well?
I have owned my GTO since 2006 and have had a Procharger on it since 2011. The Procharger race cooler is way overpriced; look at the Treadstone 1245-28 which fits real nice and is way better than the stock Procharger intercooler.

700 RWHP on E85 (my car is Flexfuel as well) I would recommend 127lb injectors combined with a 255LPH pump as a primary and a 450LPH pump as a secondary that comes on under boost. Also should convert to a return style fuel system to handle the flow requirements.

Make sure to get a race bypass valve as the stock Procharger one is a joke. However, I highly recommend an enclosed bypass valve as the open ones are obnoxiously loud.

As stevieturbo has mentioned a few times, make sure to go oversized on the crank pulley in terms of ribs/diameter. Everyone's fit is a little different but a 8.25" and 12 rib crank pulley should only need an inch trimmed off the passenger side of the Procharger fan shroud to make it fit. Automotive Specialty Products (ASP) can custom make these GTO crank pullies, just call the tech line and ask for Lee.

Another little "gotcha" item that applies to all boosted cars is a MAP sensor for boost. I would suggest getting a 2.5 Bar MAP sensor from DPE Corvettes as it is plug and play for a GTO/e40 PCM. Speaking of which, the PCM has a hardcoded limit of 2.5 Bar (22ish PSI) so keep in mind if in the future you want to exceed that boost you will need to scale the tune or go to an aftermarket engine mgt. system.

Your build seems very reasonable and fits well within the experience base for running a Procharger on a GTO.
Old 06-17-2017, 12:17 PM
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http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-DC034...016-CAMARO.htm

ProCharger's 2016+ Camaro 7.65 crank pulley works with the ProCharger GTO kit, and is a nice step up from the standard ProCharger 7.0" crank pulley. Bob
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:20 PM
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https://www.streetmachine.com.au/str...ns-nines-video

Check out the video from a customer down in Australia that bought a ProCharger F-1A kit from me, not bad for a 3900+ UTE. Bob
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:04 PM
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Thanks for all of the advice guys! I seriously do appreciate the input and all the information on this forum. That along with the help of Speed Inc. it should save me a lot of head aches figuring out issues to maximize my setup because it's all already been done.

I've decided I will be going with a D1X on E85 flex fuel system as recommended by Speed Inc. I will stick with a 4l60E trans and stick with the factory IRS with drive shaft shop parts in it.

Biggest thing left is whether I can swing a built shortblock into the budget or not. If not we'll run it on low boost on the cam only stock bottom end for a year or until it gets hurt. If I can afford a built shortblock as well I'll go ahead with that and run it near 15 psi or so and shoot for the 700 rwhp goal.

I'm thinking about a 3.820 bore 5.3 aluminum block and reuse everything I can off of my current ls1 would be the absolute cheapest way to go. I'm just not sure how the little 332 would do in a heavy car like my GTO. Or just boost the stock motor till it goes it may last a while.
Old 06-17-2017, 04:16 PM
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Sounds like you have a good plan. Still planning on doing the build after summer? For a 4l60e I will one last time recommend RPM Transmissions lol! I really can't say enough good things about them.. If you don't end up having all the $ for the forged motor I wouldn't be scared to throw 12-14lbs of boost at the stock motor with E85. E85 I'm sure you know is like race fuel so it will really help it live a long time..
Old 06-17-2017, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sweet99ss
Sounds like you have a good plan. Still planning on doing the build after summer? For a 4l60e I will one last time recommend RPM Transmissions lol! I really can't say enough good things about them.. If you don't end up having all the $ for the forged motor I wouldn't be scared to throw 12-14lbs of boost at the stock motor with E85. E85 I'm sure you know is like race fuel so it will really help it live a long time..
Yes I hope to do everything over the winter. If I boost the stock motor I would like to keep boost down to 8 or so. My cam is a 228r so it should be ok and make over 500 rwhp with 8 psi. I will not worry about changing the cam until I get a built motor and am ready to up the boost to shoot for the 700 rwhp goal.

Basically it's a budget build with the hope to run very low 10's in a GTO with a very low maintenance reliable package that I can drive to and from the track.

Do 3 bolt cams for ls1 blocks work in a 5.3 aluminum block? We're talking gen 3 blocks.
Old 06-17-2017, 05:43 PM
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The block doesnt care what cam you use in it.

Your ecu and timing gear might though
Old 08-04-2017, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Yes I hope to do everything over the winter. If I boost the stock motor I would like to keep boost down to 8 or so. My cam is a 228r so it should be ok and make over 500 rwhp with 8 psi. I will not worry about changing the cam until I get a built motor and am ready to up the boost to shoot for the 700 rwhp goal.

Basically it's a budget build with the hope to run very low 10's in a GTO with a very low maintenance reliable package that I can drive to and from the track.

Do 3 bolt cams for ls1 blocks work in a 5.3 aluminum block? We're talking gen 3 blocks.
I ll let you know what i dyno tomorrow. I have a stock bottom end ls1 (346), 11.1 compression, 243 heads milled .030 cncd, 2.08/1.57 valves, ported fast 92/92, 228r cam, magnaflow cb exhaust and D1SC 7-9psi and 93 pump gas +straight 100% methanol. As previously mentioned, the procharger is a great option for streetability and it drives like stock until you get on it. High compression/low boost motors have been utilized for quite some time with great throttle response/power/reliability. So much so that you dont even need a forged lower end on 7-8 psi if your running methanol and your tune is spot on and pulling timing when your iats creep up. I was in the same predicament trying to decide if i should go turbo or blower. I decided on a used d1sc and even with the fact that i needed to piece some of the kit together and fabricate a few things (stand off bracket and have the blow off valve bracket welded on) it still took less than 2 months to get the kit on and all bugs worked out start to finish. If you buy new there wont be any issues either. You cant really find a ton of people who can say that about their turbo kits. After alot of my own research, most people have their cars off the road for more than a year to get the turbo kits on and bugs worked out. Personally, i love my D1(100% streetable, easy to work on, drives like stock, big power when you put your foot into it).

The other reality is that your going to get to the point that you cant find many options for tires that can hook over 600rwhp on the street. Your options are nitto NT05Rs or MT ET Streets S/S. So, i think 700rwhp is a very attainable and sensible goal for a street car.


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