Smallest twin for 5.7 ls1 swap
#21
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
That's the same 5056 turbo I've used a dozen times now, although I always opt for the v-band outlet versions from DNA since they come with the downpipe v-band and clamp.
A pair of those on a stock 4.8 with the trick flow 216/220 made 600 wheel through a T56 with internal gates. We had to swap to externals to be able to get boost below 17 PSI when we swapped to a 5.3.
A pair of those on a stock 4.8 with the trick flow 216/220 made 600 wheel through a T56 with internal gates. We had to swap to externals to be able to get boost below 17 PSI when we swapped to a 5.3.
#22
Launching!
Thread Starter
This is all good info for me so thanks for replies.
Please can anyone physically measure the diameter and length of a GT35 so see if i can fit them in, if i can then i will go for it.
Will also ask some questions regarding which wastegate and blow off valve do you all use...also will need a budget intercooler
Regards
Gav
Please can anyone physically measure the diameter and length of a GT35 so see if i can fit them in, if i can then i will go for it.
Will also ask some questions regarding which wastegate and blow off valve do you all use...also will need a budget intercooler
Regards
Gav
#23
Teching In
17 PSI doesn't sound bad until you put it on a 5.3 and it boosts 20 lbs or a 5.7 and boost won't go below 21 lbs. When the 4.8 let go, a 5.3 was swapped in. It was hitting the ~17.5 PSI boost cut we had on the 4.8 by 5000 RPM.
Opening up the gates is a possibility. It won't be as easy as using a step bit to open it up though, because the opening is way off center behind the gate flap. You could safely open it up to ~28mm as long as it doesn't look like a total hack job so it will still seal.
Opening up the gates is a possibility. It won't be as easy as using a step bit to open it up though, because the opening is way off center behind the gate flap. You could safely open it up to ~28mm as long as it doesn't look like a total hack job so it will still seal.
#25
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by HioSSilver
You're better off with 500whp na than you are 550 boosted op. A built ls1 can make that pretty slick.
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TT427 (12-13-2019)
#26
Restricted User
I have a 4.8 with a pair of eBay turbos like the ones linked but with internal waste gates. 4.8 is completely stock and I’m using the v band down pipe. Any tips or tricks to keep this motor alive? The internal gates say 8 psi, how does it get to 17? Sorry I’m new to boost and already bought all the parts. Seems like you have slot more experience than I do
You can get them for $100 each without wastegates. For $90 you can get a pair of 38 or 44mm external gates that will solve your problems with boost creep.
#28
Teching In
so no point in running the internal gates mean while? im a map sensor and intercooler away from firing this motor up lol
#29
Restricted User
You can run the internals. You'll need to ease into it while tuning to see where the boost ends up. Some people have gotten them as low as 11 PSI on twins. I've went through 8 of these turbos now and 17 is about where they creep to on average.
#30
Teching In
perfect, any other tips u got? whats the average timing on 91 pump gas? air to air on that baby 4.8
#31
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
So maybe you're the one that needs to stop dragging their knuckles thinking boost is the only thing in the world.
#32
Restricted User
He's not talking about making lots of power......and no I'm not in the stonage. Not everything has to be boosted to run good. You're lost if you think that. His ac cobra replica likely weighs 2500lb or maybe even less. Hell a solid bolt ls1/2/3/6/7 would make that thing accelerate more than enough for 10sec passes, be more reliable, less clutter, less weight, better balance in the car, better braking.
So maybe you're the one that needs to stop dragging their knuckles thinking boost is the only thing in the world.
So maybe you're the one that needs to stop dragging their knuckles thinking boost is the only thing in the world.
N/A setups are inherently less reliable because of the need for greater RPM, increased valvetrain abuse, greater dependency on aftermarket parts, higher cylinder pressure when not making power, not to mention possible long term effects on engine health when using a camshaft large enough to make that much power on stock cubic inches.
You can literally do 550 wheel on any good-running $300 junkyard LS with a $1000 DIY turbo setup and it run, drive, and behave exactly like stock, almost indefinitely.
#33
Staging Lane
Here’s a picture of my twin setup. These are about as small and compact as it gets. Twin Borg Warner EFR 6758s (54mm) with .85AR housing and 2X Tial MV-R wastegates. It makes boost pretty much instantly with a stick setup. Exhaust back pressure isn’t bad with the little 51mm turbine exducers (14psi eMap @ 8.5psi boost). It also runs cool and I haven’t had issues burning plug wires. I can also change the plugs in about 10 minutes from the topside. The turbos are mounted low but still gravity drain to the pan and I haven’t had issues with smoking.
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TT427 (12-13-2019)
#38
Restricted User
They will probably do ~650-675 topped out on the internals.
Another 50-75 horsepower on external gates.
A guy here with a Chevette ran 8s with a pair of them on an LS1 using external gates.
They are offered in billet wheel versions for about double the price ($200-250 depending on gates).
The billet wheel is a couple of mm larger than the cast wheel and should be good for another 10% power on the external gate versions.
The internal gate versions are turbine limited so I wouldn't suggest the billet wheel internal gated versions.
For the price of the billet ones, you should just spend $170 and get the chinese T70 from DNA.
They're a better turbo, but aren't as small, so its dependent on your fitment. The T70s will do 750-800 in a twin configuration if you really push them.
#39
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Show me an N/A 5.7 meeting his goal of 550whp.
N/A setups are inherently less reliable because of the need for greater RPM, increased valvetrain abuse, greater dependency on aftermarket parts, higher cylinder pressure when not making power, not to mention possible long term effects on engine health when using a camshaft large enough to make that much power on stock cubic inches.
You can literally do 550 wheel on any good-running $300 junkyard LS with a $1000 DIY turbo setup and it run, drive, and behave exactly like stock, almost indefinitely.
N/A setups are inherently less reliable because of the need for greater RPM, increased valvetrain abuse, greater dependency on aftermarket parts, higher cylinder pressure when not making power, not to mention possible long term effects on engine health when using a camshaft large enough to make that much power on stock cubic inches.
You can literally do 550 wheel on any good-running $300 junkyard LS with a $1000 DIY turbo setup and it run, drive, and behave exactly like stock, almost indefinitely.
Now to show you a na 550whp 5.7 you'll have to wait a bit as i am in the process of building one. Darthv8r did 540whp on a h/c sbe build......so it is very much possible........unless you've been living under a rock.
I can't say i agree with a na set up being less reliable. There is less **** to go wrong period. Using cheap of the cheap parts like you're saying for sure isn't gonna add up to some great reliability. Don't use junk valvesprings like most use and the valvetrain is fine. Hell even stock ls6 valvesprings are good to 7k rpm. The rotating assembly is begging for more rpm as are the heads. Getting the right intake is key.
You would. Because you're one of these idiots with a h/c boosted car that's runs similar to what my my bolt on ls6 did.
#40
TECH Addict
iTrader: (47)
550whp boosted car won't run with a good 500whp na car. So instead of op looking for a hp goal he should be looking for a acceleration goal. Optimizing the power one has is alot of times.....most times greater than adding power.
Now to show you a na 550whp 5.7 you'll have to wait a bit as i am in the process of building one. Darthv8r did 540whp on a h/c sbe build......so it is very much possible........unless you've been living under a rock.
I can't say i agree with a na set up being less reliable. There is less **** to go wrong period. Using cheap of the cheap parts like you're saying for sure isn't gonna add up to some great reliability. Don't use junk valvesprings like most use and the valvetrain is fine. Hell even stock ls6 valvesprings are good to 7k rpm. The rotating assembly is begging for more rpm as are the heads. Getting the right intake is key.
You would. Because you're one of these idiots with a h/c boosted car that's runs similar to what my my bolt on ls6 did.
Now to show you a na 550whp 5.7 you'll have to wait a bit as i am in the process of building one. Darthv8r did 540whp on a h/c sbe build......so it is very much possible........unless you've been living under a rock.
I can't say i agree with a na set up being less reliable. There is less **** to go wrong period. Using cheap of the cheap parts like you're saying for sure isn't gonna add up to some great reliability. Don't use junk valvesprings like most use and the valvetrain is fine. Hell even stock ls6 valvesprings are good to 7k rpm. The rotating assembly is begging for more rpm as are the heads. Getting the right intake is key.
You would. Because you're one of these idiots with a h/c boosted car that's runs similar to what my my bolt on ls6 did.
A boosted car without a brake won't 60' quite as fast, but when the boost comes on, its going to reel in the N/A car just like they always do. Your seriously one of the only people left who think like this......wait, you probably like N2O also, and think its better than boost also.
And since your still building your setup, we will wait to see the dyno sheet, or slip supporting said 500rwhp N/A build, and I am sure it will be as cheap as a small turbo build.