a05c

If you dive into the trans, please put a billet clutch drum in it. Save your feet/ankles.

Game ova

Oh I am. After the very brief time that it pulled yesterday, I've decided that I really need to beef up the drivetrain. I've seen it said that the stock input shaft/forward drum can support 1,000hp, but knowing my luck it will let go (now that I'm hooking) even though I'm about 250 under that. Personally, I think it's more a function of torque that is the hardest on parts, but for whatever reason... it seems most things are rated in terms of horsepower instead of torque. That's one of the main reasons I didn't spring for the billet piece the first time... didn't think the motor made enough power to justify it. With all that said, I agree with your suggestion.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

Can't remember, did you do an aftermarket case or at least an SFI bell and blanket? Might be something else to really consider while it's down and draining the wallet

Game ova

With the exception of the 4L80 direct, transbrake, and clutch count....its stone stock.

Cwarta

iTrader: (12)

I have the same exact thing, with the addition of the JakesPerformance free mods, and it's been taking it like a champ. I might go ahead and add a shield though :/

coltboostin

100 free miles I just bought a car that was 98 miles away. They where PISSED lol.

sucks to see it break. Maybe you should have rolled through the water

Game ova

Not being a smart alec, but wouldn't the driveshaft have to bottom out on the output shaft for that to happen? When i had the driveshaft built, I did so in a way to prevent that from happening.

Cwarta

iTrader: (12)

I understand what he's saying, he's saying it looks like the pinion rotated up ebough that it bound the rear U joint, it's pretty common and looks similar with the diesel trucks. It destroys **** every time, doesn't matter how good the parts are if that's what it's doing

TTur1996

^^^^Exactly^^^^ You definitely need to go to hiem joints. The rubber bushed ends will allow your rear end to move way more than you can imagine. After it broke the rear end yoke, is probably when it took out the trans. Better take the drive shaft somewhere to see if it got bent too. Now you know why you should build the chassis before you build the motor. Make damn sure you put a blanket on that trans so it don't kill you too. Not trying to be a smart alec either. Best of Luck

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

Bummer, but one way of finding the weak points, lol
Years ago I was at a race, car launched but didn't move more than a foot, blew the rear U joint, the cup went thru the floor (thin tin section) and exited thru the roof, crazy the speed it was going.

Nali6.2

holy burnout batman lol, aren't you on radials? either way a well prepped track will always find your weak link.

svslow

That was impressive.

Black89Z51

iTrader: (2)

Sucks that happened man. Car looks great though.

Honestly, I'd steer clear of a 9" because they expensive and heavy as ****. 8.8s are dirt cheap and hold up to some serious power.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Awe shitty man, I wasn't intending to jinx it.
I thought it would last a lot longer than that just based on what the local guys are doing.
Hopefully the damage is relegated to just the broken yoke.
Looked like it was leaving hard AF though!

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Yeah it was a little excessive for radials that is for sure!

Game ova

Yea ET street R's. It was a bit much, but I don't think you guys understand just how sick I am of spinning lol. I wanted to be absolutely sure I had some heat in them, but probably went overboard just a little.

I'm thinking I might do the 8.8 with my axle tubes, along with heim joints as was suggested. I've had many cars over the years, and have yet to have this issue....definitely a learning experience. What's funny is, the rear end internally is perfectly fine.

Losing the yoke probably hurt the low roller clutch, even though it still works...im going to pull it and take a look, was going to pull it in the fall anyways to beef up 2nd gear. I seen the video with the on3 car leaving off the t-brake, I should have took a page from him. Even though he was on the brake, when he released it... he still finessed out the hole. Silly me, got greedy.... got up on the converter a little bit, and just matted it. Even went so far as to turn the gate pressure way up, so that it lit off near instantly. Oh well, this won't happen again.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

Do you still have a factory torque arm? I've torn up a few of those and that will shoot the rearend up and take out a yoke.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I would agree with this if it's a stock 8.8. My 9 inch let me go 1.5x at 3800lbs dropping the clutch off the 2 step....once I put in a billet pinion yoke. Yes it costs more power but there's a reason it's used in the racing world.

Game ova

If I were to install heim joints, wouldn't that take the pressure off of the ta due to there no longer being any upward rotational force?

Ever have any issues with the ring or pinion, doing that with the 9 inch? I'm really not sure WHAT to do, I've read of some of the Turbo Buick guys going faster than I probably ever will. Then others say the 8.8 isn't that great. Since I have no experience with either unit.....its tough to make up my mind.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

The TA still acts as your "upper link". Having heims on the lowers will take out some of the "slop", but no it won't take any load off the rotational force put on the TA. If anything it would probably make it worse since there is no soft rubber to cushion the hit. I've ripped the top bolt holes off a stock TA with just some 1.5x sixties