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Going for twin GT35's. Hoping to use two stock passenger side manifolds...

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Going for twin GT35's. Hoping to use two stock passenger side manifolds...

 
Old 01-10-2019, 12:56 PM
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I just got my VS 3582 JB twin turbos, they have the iron Vband exhaust housings standard T3 inlet. Your setup looks good! Those exhaust housings are nice as well!

Any reason you went with the 3an fitting and feed hoses? What are you running for drain -10an? I spoke with Viren about the 3582s GT35s .82AR and he recommended a -4an feed and a .060" restrictor for these Journal bearing turbos. I got some ICT billet T3 drain flanges with a 1/2NPT and I'm thinking of either a -8 or -10 drain.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:23 PM
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Thanks for the kind words.
On the oil feed fittings, that's just what I'd been using on all my prior turbos(TC76, PT7675, ON3 78mm, ON3 84mm) I'm not running any restrictors on any of them. Just the normal diameter of the -3an fittings. So far, so good. I am running -10an drains. I ran -10 on all the other turbos too. I've been using a turbowerx scavenge pump in the past because my hotside positioned the turbos too low for a gravity feed. These GT35's are up nice and high where gravity can work.
Looking forward to the results of your build!.
Originally Posted by customblackbird View Post
I just got my VS 3582 JB twin turbos, they have the iron Vband exhaust housings standard T3 inlet. Your setup looks good! Those exhaust housings are nice as well!

Any reason you went with the 3an fitting and feed hoses? What are you running for drain -10an? I spoke with Viren about the 3582s GT35s .82AR and he recommended a -4an feed and a .060" restrictor for these Journal bearing turbos. I got some ICT billet T3 drain flanges with a 1/2NPT and I'm thinking of either a -8 or -10 drain.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:56 PM
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Gotcha, thank for the response. I currently run a -4an with a .125" restrictor on my VS billet 78/75 single as viren says not to run any on the JB turbos. I also run a single -10AN drain on that. I figured these turbos are a good bit smaller so maybe I could step down the drain to a -8an but I already have a bunch of -10 fittings so its not really an issue. My build isn't happening for a long time (gona do a twin turbo 5.3 hot rod truck kit car) just gotta come up with 20k to get the kit. So I'm just collecting parts at the moment.

Def in for some results on your build!
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:47 PM
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I personally don’t like using an fittings for drains.

my setup is as follows.

melling high volume dod pump
20/50 brad penn
4an feeds unrestricted
i return to the front cover bottom corner each side.

1/2 npt x5/8 thin Wall 45 barb on the cover and turbos
10an line, and my drains are basically flat.

i run around 50-60 psi oil pressure at idle 100# wot, with all my bypasses plugged. Plenty of oil pressure for sure. Don’t really have a point to all this I guess, just joining in on the feed/drain conversation lol
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Old 01-31-2019, 07:41 PM
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I continue to amaze myself at how naďve/uninformed I can be on turbo related stuff. So, I had one good JGS400V waste gate and was going to buy another, but they're like $270 not including shipping, etc. But I found to 2 VSRacing 50mm WG for less than a single JGS400V. So I put the JGS400V in the classifieds and bought two VS50mm WG. I got them. Damn,... they're a LOT bigger (duh, 50mm vs 40mm) It's just that I assumed the 'outlet' of the WG would be larger, not the inlet. Why I didn't consider that, I don't know. So now I have all this1.5" stainless with mandrel bends etc that I can't use and I have to buy the 2.0" mandrel stainless now. Lol....

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Old 01-31-2019, 07:48 PM
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Other than that, things are going nicely. I've got the Blow off valve fitting welded onto the 4.0" aluminum intake elbow. I've got the oil feeds and drains routed and tightened up. I've figured out the routing of the turbo outlets to the intercooler and the output from that into the throttle body.

Right now, welding up stainless mandrel bends to go from the turbo outlets to the cat back. I'll be putting electric cutouts on those as well. The passenger side manifold, being a 'flipped' modified stock truck manifold, has afforded me quite a bit of room. I'm experimenting with two 3.0" pipes, one stacked on top of another, over the stock K-member. Preliminary positioning 'looks' like it would be feasible, still not tapping on chassis or block and not too close to plug or starter wires. I'll know by this Sunday.
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:44 PM
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Can't wait to see some progress pics!
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Old 02-03-2019, 08:07 AM
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Thanks. I trial fitted the two 45 degree bent 3.0" stainless and it clears everything just fine. I'm welding up some pie cuts today and doing some mock ups.

I've been running a 3.0" OBX intercooler since 2008 and it looks like I can leverage that into my new setup by;
  1. Routing the drivers side turbos output straight forward into the panel behind the headlights, via a 3.0" holesaw hole, then elbowed straight down to enter the intercooler.
  2. Routing the passenger side turbos output the same way, elbowed down, the traverse under the radiator to the drivers side, enter into the intercooler(I'm TIG welding a 2.5" inlet above the current 3.0" inlet)
  3. The outlet of the Intercooler will come up thru the hole where the stock radiator overflow was, takes a right and goes into a 3.0" to 4.0" transition elbow to the 4.0" aluminum elbow , to the throttle body.
  4. Both turbo's will have a supply of cool filtered air via 4.0" to 3.0" silicone reducer elbows, The 3.0" sides point down thru the stock holes (drivers side, below the fuse box, Passenger side, thru the overflow aperture). They'll have a short section of 3" aluminum tube going to large K&N air filter cones.
This is all my latest thoughts anyway.
I'll try to get some more pictures.
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:00 AM
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Getting so closer to having everything but still stumbling. Every day, I see more and more why fabricators charge so much money for custom turbo stuff. Sourcing this and that, the time it takes to locate and deliver, trial and error on fitment, discovering something you want isn't available. Geez.....
  1. Not using my MAF and built in IAT sensor for this, I needed to install an IAT standalone sensor in the throttle body tube. The Outside diameter calipered out to .5". I looked all around for a .5" aluminum tube of sufficient thickness but couldn't find any. I made one out of trimmed 1.5" aluminum. Just cut the portion I need and tapped that around a socket to keep the round shape, then TIG'd it. Got it welded onto the intake tube.
  2. Wastegates. Good god, this has been frustrating. My original Turbo kit from 2008 on the LT1, I opted for a turbosmart Ultragate 38mm. Later, my second LT1 kit had a JGS400V. Knowing I was going for twins a few years ago, I bought a second TS Ultragate 38mm, but it must've been either an earlier or later than my current one because it looks different. I want the twins to look pleasing and symmetrical. So, hearing about VSRacing's site, I went there. "Hey!, Look at that! I can get two 50mm gates easily!". I ordered them and they arrived. Well dumbass, they're a lot bigger so you can't use all that nifty 1.5" stainless mandrel bent and flex joints you bought. Ugh.. So today I tried to order a second JGS400V. Well , If I want to wait till the middle of May(and I don't) Jegs will have one available. Crap. So, I just went on Jegs and found the Tial 38mm and, as a side benefit, it's substantially shorter than the JGS400V. I ordered one for now and will order the other later.
My plan of routing the down pipes from the turbo's to dual 3.0" under the passenger side turbo manifold is looking good. My car is in 'Daves Speedshop" (storage facilty across the road. Perhaps 200 yds from my house) and my welder is downstairs, so I have to take my measurements at the shop, go home and make my pie cuts, go back the shop and mock it up, go home and tack it, go back to the shop and verify, go back home and either adjust or weld it. Repeat.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:01 AM
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Well look at it this way, having it at Daves speed shop, gets you in that winter exercise plan, with all that walking. LOL. Any progress, is progress. It's sooo cold here now, I am not working on anything!
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:04 PM
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Got the new compact 38mm Tial WasteGate a few minutes ago. Look at all the springs they provide! And look how much more compact it is than the JGS400V and the VSRacing 50mm.
Came with flanges, clamps, a wide array of springs and all the fittings for the ports. You can mount the port for the dome on two places(on top/center or a side port) and 3 Air/vacuum ports (and 2 ports for water) locations on the lower half.
Pretty sweet!



Last edited by mightyquickz28; 02-12-2019 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 02-12-2019, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mightyquickz28 View Post
Got the new compact 38mm Tial WasteGate a few minutes ago. Look at all the springs they provide! And look how much more compact it is than the JGS400V and the VSRacing 50mm.
Came with flanges, clamps, a wide array of springs and all the fittings for the ports. You can mount the port for the dome on two places(on top/center or a side port) and 3 Air/vacuum ports (and 2 ports for water) locations on the lower half.
Pretty sweet!


Looks good. Expensive little ******* huh. I got 2 eBay tial 38mm for like $80 shipped. Took them apart, coated the housings and reassembled. Alittle sloppy on the shaft play and being centered but should work just fine. I saw a video comparing all the top WG and I think the shortest was a turbosmart or something.
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Old 02-12-2019, 10:02 AM
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Pic


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Old 02-12-2019, 11:48 AM
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Nice!
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:46 PM
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I was going to go ebay WG but im debating! i know you pay for what u get.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by panda240ss View Post
I was going to go ebay WG but im debating! i know you pay for what u get.
mine have worked fine. I honestly have never bought a real BOV or WG. I’ve run wyntom, CX racing, speed daddy, VS racing and all have worked. I would say if your rocking a fully built motor then u got money to burn and can afford real brand stuff... or if you road race/autoX or drift where your constantly cycling the WG. On the street the WG opens minimally and have large breaks to cool down between pulls. Plus all my motors are $500-700 or less so I don’t spend more money on WGs than my motor lol. $250 GT35s get the $40 WG and a $50 BOV. If I had a 1k plus borg or precision I would prob spend the money on a $250-400 WG.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:10 PM
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that is very true! i mean i have an on3 cast 7875, sharp custom intake manifold 102tb, SEP injectors

i was going to go with speed daddy since it looks JUST like VS racing. like the same damn thing just VS has their name ontop of their. and speed daddy is half the price just i dont want to deal with boost creep or anything. was thinking of a 50mm speed daddy WG. my friend always told me to go with good parts thats why i got a Treadstone intercooler. but again on the fence of it....i was going to build my 240 for drifting but ive gone to the dark side and just wanna have street fun and maybe some track launches lol. just ordered Jegs 15x8 and soon gonna order mt et ss
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by panda240ss View Post
that is very true! i mean i have an on3 cast 7875, sharp custom intake manifold 102tb, SEP injectors

i was going to go with speed daddy since it looks JUST like VS racing. like the same damn thing just VS has their name ontop of their. and speed daddy is half the price just i dont want to deal with boost creep or anything. was thinking of a 50mm speed daddy WG. my friend always told me to go with good parts thats why i got a Treadstone intercooler. but again on the fence of it....i was going to build my 240 for drifting but ive gone to the dark side and just wanna have street fun and maybe some track launches lol. just ordered Jegs 15x8 and soon gonna order mt et ss
VS and speed daddy are the same. The only difference is a engraved logo and VS u get virens awsome customer service. Viren sent me a 50mm BOV, thing was machined so far off the valve wouldn’t seal when closed (flash light showed a light ring around 3/4 of the valve), viren refunded me and didn’t even want it back. I ordered a speed daddy 50mm off amazon and it was the same. I run that one now with no issues and a $80 speed daddy FMIC.

Same BOV, same WGs they even come in the same white box, VS gets his name engraved and offers outstanding customer service.
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:01 PM
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See thats the issue that scares me. I dont want to be dealing with that. im better off just buying a $2xx wastegate and know that it will work correctly and it comes with many springs even though im just going to be running maybe 8-16 psi of choochooo noises.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:54 AM
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Underneath, looking up on the passenger side This is the intermediate pipe from the turbo downpipe going back to the catback. It has about 1/2" from the piping to the fender wall and about 1/4" beneath the truck exhaust manifold. Though this picture angle seems to portray the plug wires as close, there is actually a generous space between the pipe and the wires. The area beneath this pipe is where the drivers side intermediate pipe will be located.

Another pic from the same vantage point, showing the open area for the 2nd intermediate pipe below the passenger side.

This is the rear view of the passenger side intermediate pipe, again showing the ample room for the 2nd 3.0" pipe.

Slightly different angle from the rear/back of the stock Ls1 K-member shoing the area available.
Made some good progress this past week ( I have the month of April off from work).

Spent a decent portion of this past week working on elements of my car.

Things I got done:
  1. Welded up the drivers side waste gate and mounted it.
  2. Welded up a new aluminum 1.5” pipe from the thermostat housing to the radiator. The rubber hose was too close to the passenger side down pipe.
  3. Welded up a new aluminum bracket for the aftermarket radiator overflow bottle. Took out the stock one to provide room for the passenger side turbo and it’s air filter.
  4. Rerouted some wires that were too close to the dual 3.0” intermediate pipes.
  5. Mounted the coils, installed brand new plugs and installed all plug wires.
  6. Welded the O2 bungs onto the two down pipes. I run open loop , 3bar speed density so I don't use the narrow band O2's but the wide bands will occupy these bungs.
  7. Although the exhaust system is still incomplete, I decided to try to fire her up. To my surprise, after a 2 second crank, she hit a couple of times. I recycled the key and this time, she fired right up and started idling! Air Fuel ratio was 14.5.

Still to finish:







  1. I have about 1.5 feet of piping from the drivers side turbo to the intermediate pipe on the passenger side. On the opposite end of that pipe, I have to put about 3 or 4 inches plus a Vband flange.
  2. I have to weld up a merge so that the two (Left and right down pipes) three inch pipes converge into a single (for the time being) 3.0 that will go back to the Borla cat back. I will replace that with either dual 3” all the way back or just dual 3” electric cutouts.
  3. Still have to pull the nose of the car off to rework the current 3” in /3” out intercooler to 3” and 2.5” in/ 3” out intercooler.
  4. Have to use a 3.5” hole saw to cut two ports, one for each side/turbo that will go thru the sheet metal up front (behind the headlight assemblies), then down into the intercooler.
  5. Finally 3” from the intercooler outlet into the throttle body.

Getting close! It remains to be seen if the passenger side, with it's truck manifold and both 3.0" downpipes, will provide too much heat to be a viable design. If it is, I'll figure out something else.

I've really enjoyed the TIG welding experience this undertaking has given me. Like most newbies that don't take formal instruction, I now have a wealth of what NOT to do, what a bad Idea shortcuts are, the importance of tungsten shape, torch angle, cleanliness, positioning, setups and more. I've gone thru about 15 "Q" bottles of 100% Argon, tried about every tungsten type, diameter, shape, sharpening technique and so on. Several types of cups. Standard, Gas lens, FUPA(Pyrex) . Like most guys that don't weld for a living but as a hobby, I'll weld one bead that looks freaking amazing. Then, I'll rotate the piping to got a new seam to weld up and the next inch or two will look horrible. They say experience/practice will eventually get the consistency, so I'm pursuing that. I've welded 1.5" aluminum tubing (for a thermostat to lower radiator port) using several pie cuts. I also cut off the 1.75" aluminum port on the lower radiator and welded a 1.5" port in its place. Pressure testing proved that I had some porosity in one spot (my tungsten had touched it at that point and contaminated the puddle). I ground it out and rewelded it. I've welded schedule 40 mild steel (elbows and pie cuts) to the trimmed stock truck manifolds. I've also welded stainless steel for the manifold to waste gate (1.5"), stainless transitions from the manifold to the T3 flanges, the stainless down pipes(3.0") and the mild steel (3.0") for the intermediate pipes. I have to say, welding mild steel is a breeze compared to the aluminum and stainless since mild steel doesn't need the back purge of stainless nor extensive cleaning prep work like the aluminum.

This being my first attempt at fabricating an entire hotside, after it's all down and in place successfully, I will probably pull it all of next winter and use some new piping since I'm sure there are places I can eliminate some of the pie cuts with some new mandrel bends.

As I've said numerous times, thanks to all you guys that have gone down this road before me and provided answers and examples for people like me. You've made the journey so much easier.

Last edited by mightyquickz28; 04-09-2019 at 08:22 AM.
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