Thinking of Ebay-Turbo over HCI
10-09-2017, 11:22 AM
#1
Thinking of Ebay-Turbo over HCI I am fixing my 140k LS1 Trans Am. Auto.
Runs great super clean but has oil pan leak.
While at it I am going to add a stall, water pump and was going down the HCI route but even the mechanic said why not turbo it. My motor is solid and they are cheap.
I was hoping for 430hp 11sec car NA. But I know I would want a little more for bragging rights against german and imports. 500+ would be 10sec range.
So instead of cracking the heads, I still wanted to stab a cam. I am thinking a torquer V2 or SS-HT new springs and leave 241 heads and exhaust alone for now.
That will get me sound and have fun. then get a $1000 turbo kit, fuel rails, fuel pump tune and run 9lbs.
So: will stock 241 at 10.4 and a cam be ok with a turbo or does it require lower compression? if not I figure leave the long block alone, have fun with the turbo and cam until it blows then replace it as needed.
Runs great super clean but has oil pan leak.
While at it I am going to add a stall, water pump and was going down the HCI route but even the mechanic said why not turbo it. My motor is solid and they are cheap.
I was hoping for 430hp 11sec car NA. But I know I would want a little more for bragging rights against german and imports. 500+ would be 10sec range.
So instead of cracking the heads, I still wanted to stab a cam. I am thinking a torquer V2 or SS-HT new springs and leave 241 heads and exhaust alone for now.
That will get me sound and have fun. then get a $1000 turbo kit, fuel rails, fuel pump tune and run 9lbs.
So: will stock 241 at 10.4 and a cam be ok with a turbo or does it require lower compression? if not I figure leave the long block alone, have fun with the turbo and cam until it blows then replace it as needed.
10-09-2017, 05:44 PM
#2
550 would be easy with a turbo. 241s are fine and as for 10.5 to one compression is ok as long as you don't get into detonation. Things to consider are adding meth or going e85. Be really safe on the timing under boost at the torque peak. Last but not least is piston ring gap. With 140k it might be ok but I would pull the pistons and open the gaps up before I ran it under boost. Is it absolutely necessary. Maybe not but why chance it. Open the gaps and be sure. Boost is addictive and you'll crank it past 550 in no time if you go turbo so gap them rings ahead of time. Well maybe you won't but I would cause in a power addict and I admit it. Any stage one cam is fine but honestly a stock cam or a ls6 cam would work good too at that low a horsepower level.
10-09-2017, 10:02 PM
#7
Run the LS1 as is with a small cam kit and springs. I'm running 11.1 compression she Ls1 and it's responsive/blast to drive on the street.
I'm around 600rwhp for the past year and plan to push it to 700rwhp next year.
Once you go over 600rwhp the chassics components get expensive. Upgraded rear end, transmission, clutch or converter, fuel system, drag pack, suspension etc.
I'm around 600rwhp for the past year and plan to push it to 700rwhp next year.
Once you go over 600rwhp the chassics components get expensive. Upgraded rear end, transmission, clutch or converter, fuel system, drag pack, suspension etc.
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10-10-2017, 05:55 AM
#8
I am fixing my 140k LS1 Trans Am. Auto.
Runs great super clean but has oil pan leak.
While at it I am going to add a stall, water pump and was going down the HCI route but even the mechanic said why not turbo it. My motor is solid and they are cheap.
I was hoping for 430hp 11sec car NA. But I know I would want a little more for bragging rights against german and imports. 500+ would be 10sec range.
So instead of cracking the heads, I still wanted to stab a cam. I am thinking a torquer V2 or SS-HT new springs and leave 241 heads and exhaust alone for now.
That will get me sound and have fun. then get a $1000 turbo kit, fuel rails, fuel pump tune and run 9lbs.
So: will stock 241 at 10.4 and a cam be ok with a turbo or does it require lower compression? if not I figure leave the long block alone, have fun with the turbo and cam until it blows then replace it as needed.
Runs great super clean but has oil pan leak.
While at it I am going to add a stall, water pump and was going down the HCI route but even the mechanic said why not turbo it. My motor is solid and they are cheap.
I was hoping for 430hp 11sec car NA. But I know I would want a little more for bragging rights against german and imports. 500+ would be 10sec range.
So instead of cracking the heads, I still wanted to stab a cam. I am thinking a torquer V2 or SS-HT new springs and leave 241 heads and exhaust alone for now.
That will get me sound and have fun. then get a $1000 turbo kit, fuel rails, fuel pump tune and run 9lbs.
So: will stock 241 at 10.4 and a cam be ok with a turbo or does it require lower compression? if not I figure leave the long block alone, have fun with the turbo and cam until it blows then replace it as needed.
10-10-2017, 06:31 AM
#9
Great comments and pushign more and more to turbo. I love and own Audis for my DD and they are all turbo fun and so much power. I never thought to have FI on the v8. Figure NA and big cubes to compete lol but for heads/header work gets you a kit or less and install seems like the same cost.
The rest would get upgraded if NA or FI anyway. But I like the idea of dialing in up to 600hp. Not breaking the cars street limits and going crazy.
I wonder if e85 and t4 huron kit has all you need for the street. Looks like $3k for the right bare min kit.
For the stall comment: I am getting my prices today. He is dropping the tranny and changing the oil gaskets/rear seal and whatever else the drive train needs for $700 all parts minus whatever I need for internals on the tranny and stall. he will quote today.
I told him my goals I want to hold 600 ft-lbs he said he can doa max build to hold 650 easy next step is around 850 then more is more $. He has done 2 of my cars already and they both have run great. Power and streetable.
But he can get a stall, I told him I want an FTI equiv 3200 with STR 2.1. He said his person builds them and all cores and most builds all come from like 3 companies nationally. His 'guy' does most of the work for this area for the other brands and can make whatever I need for less $.
Little leary, but I will wait for his number and see if he can quote specs, otherwise get a FTI. What is needed in a stall to make it turbo ready?
The rest would get upgraded if NA or FI anyway. But I like the idea of dialing in up to 600hp. Not breaking the cars street limits and going crazy.
I wonder if e85 and t4 huron kit has all you need for the street. Looks like $3k for the right bare min kit.
For the stall comment: I am getting my prices today. He is dropping the tranny and changing the oil gaskets/rear seal and whatever else the drive train needs for $700 all parts minus whatever I need for internals on the tranny and stall. he will quote today.
I told him my goals I want to hold 600 ft-lbs he said he can doa max build to hold 650 easy next step is around 850 then more is more $. He has done 2 of my cars already and they both have run great. Power and streetable.
But he can get a stall, I told him I want an FTI equiv 3200 with STR 2.1. He said his person builds them and all cores and most builds all come from like 3 companies nationally. His 'guy' does most of the work for this area for the other brands and can make whatever I need for less $.
Little leary, but I will wait for his number and see if he can quote specs, otherwise get a FTI. What is needed in a stall to make it turbo ready?
10-10-2017, 06:44 AM
#10
Great comments and pushign more and more to turbo. I love and own Audis for my DD and they are all turbo fun and so much power. I never thought to have FI on the v8. Figure NA and big cubes to compete lol but for heads/header work gets you a kit or less and install seems like the same cost.
The rest would get upgraded if NA or FI anyway. But I like the idea of dialing in up to 600hp. Not breaking the cars street limits and going crazy.
I wonder if e85 and t4 huron kit has all you need for the street. Looks like $3k for the right bare min kit.
For the stall comment: I am getting my prices today. He is dropping the tranny and changing the oil gaskets/rear seal and whatever else the drive train needs for $700 all parts minus whatever I need for internals on the tranny and stall. he will quote today.
I told him my goals I want to hold 600 ft-lbs he said he can doa max build to hold 650 easy next step is around 850 then more is more $. He has done 2 of my cars already and they both have run great. Power and streetable.
But he can get a stall, I told him I want an FTI equiv 3200 with STR 2.1. He said his person builds them and all cores and most builds all come from like 3 companies nationally. His 'guy' does most of the work for this area for the other brands and can make whatever I need for less $.
Little leary, but I will wait for his number and see if he can quote specs, otherwise get a FTI. What is needed in a stall to make it turbo ready?
The rest would get upgraded if NA or FI anyway. But I like the idea of dialing in up to 600hp. Not breaking the cars street limits and going crazy.
I wonder if e85 and t4 huron kit has all you need for the street. Looks like $3k for the right bare min kit.
For the stall comment: I am getting my prices today. He is dropping the tranny and changing the oil gaskets/rear seal and whatever else the drive train needs for $700 all parts minus whatever I need for internals on the tranny and stall. he will quote today.
I told him my goals I want to hold 600 ft-lbs he said he can doa max build to hold 650 easy next step is around 850 then more is more $. He has done 2 of my cars already and they both have run great. Power and streetable.
But he can get a stall, I told him I want an FTI equiv 3200 with STR 2.1. He said his person builds them and all cores and most builds all come from like 3 companies nationally. His 'guy' does most of the work for this area for the other brands and can make whatever I need for less $.
Little leary, but I will wait for his number and see if he can quote specs, otherwise get a FTI. What is needed in a stall to make it turbo ready?
10-10-2017, 07:00 AM
#11
Also I am expecting bolt on tune with turbo kit and external work to get it right but I read to GAP the rings?
that sounds like pulling the block? If I have to pull the engine and pull pistols I would just rebuild to a 383 NA and leave turbo alone.
i am pulling the oil pan can they gap the rings from the bottom? Easy job?
that sounds like pulling the block? If I have to pull the engine and pull pistols I would just rebuild to a 383 NA and leave turbo alone.
i am pulling the oil pan can they gap the rings from the bottom? Easy job?
10-10-2017, 08:25 AM
#12
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Dont need to gap the rings, with high mileage they are already loose, and with your goals being on the conservative side you're good. My car ran 10.8s on motor with a heads cam LS1. I just did a turbo 5.3 setup and on 7 pounds it blows my NA setup away. Not even comparable.
10-10-2017, 10:17 AM
#13
Thanks 01ssreda4 tahts what I felt like too.
I was going to do NA cam, since I might turbo I will leave the stock headers for now, maybe a fast92 and a tune and rear gears and stall and hopefully be a low 11 car.
Then work a turbo kit.
I was going to do NA cam, since I might turbo I will leave the stock headers for now, maybe a fast92 and a tune and rear gears and stall and hopefully be a low 11 car.
Then work a turbo kit.
10-10-2017, 12:35 PM
#17
Also I am expecting bolt on tune with turbo kit and external work to get it right but I read to GAP the rings?
that sounds like pulling the block? If I have to pull the engine and pull pistols I would just rebuild to a 383 NA and leave turbo alone.
i am pulling the oil pan can they gap the rings from the bottom? Easy job?
that sounds like pulling the block? If I have to pull the engine and pull pistols I would just rebuild to a 383 NA and leave turbo alone.
i am pulling the oil pan can they gap the rings from the bottom? Easy job?
10-10-2017, 01:59 PM
#18
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600 ft lbs is going to destroy a 60E.
And I'm with Game Ova. You need to find a reputable builder (not just engine builder) to build a car capable of what you're looking for.
For your combo, I'd suggest a turbo, stock block, stock heads, cam, 80E with a converter and shift kit and a 12 bolt.
And I'm with Game Ova. You need to find a reputable builder (not just engine builder) to build a car capable of what you're looking for.
For your combo, I'd suggest a turbo, stock block, stock heads, cam, 80E with a converter and shift kit and a 12 bolt.
10-10-2017, 02:06 PM
#19
Ok I hear the tranny issue. I had to g et my main oil leak fixed anyway, so didn't waste money. A shift kit and stall to boot on the 60LE is fine for now. Leaving my long block alone is also ok and cam/intake/fuel is needed NA or Turbo so I will do that and plan for the rest of the build.
The 80LE is that a direct swap as far as ECM and size and driveshaft? I thought just the 65 and 70 were swaps.
The 80LE is that a direct swap as far as ECM and size and driveshaft? I thought just the 65 and 70 were swaps.
10-10-2017, 02:15 PM
#20
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Buddy, I sorta just went through all this. Finally completing my turbo build with 80e swap and here is all the juicy details. Its a long thread with hundreds and hundreds of pics, and tons of info. Page 0-5 is track BS, 5-18 is more or less weight reduction, and 18 and up is my turbo build. I hope you get some use out of it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html