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I swapped mufflers and it helped a little. I'm still 80+db in the car all the time. It's awesome!
Goodness. It sounds like you like the way the car sounds....why not go with an over axle and run dual cutouts off the headers? Put the blower on it and get it running and then have a quiet mode and a beast mode.
I might try to sell the Kooks. But I've cut them up and re-welded them to put new mufflers on there. It looks nice and sounds good. But the Speed Engineering clones have killed the market... No way I can get even close to what I paid for them even tho they look new and are fine. So I feel "stuck" with them.
But I've been thinking of doing the TSP Catback since it's priced well, sounds good, looks pretty ok, and has a cutout already built into it.
And I like that more for the turbo than the Procharger. Coming off a turbo, it would be plenty quiet and then I can upcap it for fun.
But it just feels like I'm pissing money away... I did the True Duals to support anything I could ever want to do with the car. And now? blah.
I hear you on the pissing money away...I believe that's required for boosted setups haha. I honestly don't think I did bad with the cost of my setup, but it's never cheap.
Im definitely open to adding that brace to the J bracket. I know the Aster bracket is golden, just can't justify the cost. Post up that pic when you get a chance. I'm running the 7.625 ATI balancer and a 4" blower pulley.
There is a threaded hole in the head unit that the J bracket doesn't use. Then I cut threads in to a hole in the oil pan casting that isn't used. the rod just clears the sway bar.
Probably a few weeks. The car is buried in the corner of my building right now and I'm getting ready for winter. I can send you a PM when I get time and see where your at.
As far as belt slip I've got a dual pulley idler setup so I'm surprised I get belt slip too. Im thinking something is flexing just enough. The RPM is concern is what gameova said....stock 4L60E and RPM's don't like each other lol. On the plus side....if I keep the RPM's down, I could move to a smaller pulley [/QUOTE]
What I have found and perhaps speculation is that with two ATI 2.5 inch idler pulleys you can't adjust the top pulley down enough into the jack screw slot on the j bracket because it will touch the lower 2.5 inch pulley. As a result you might get slip when using a K080415 Gates belt because it is too long
I am running a 7.65 crank pulley and a 4.0 inch pulley (same combo as yours). Problem I had however was finding a shorter belt. A Gates K080415 Green is too long and the next size shorter (KO80400) is too short with a second 2.5 inch idler pulley.
So I am currently waiting on Metco to finish a run of 2 inch idler pulleys. The two inch pulley is used on the ZL1 and CTSV. My thoughts are that I will gain an additional 1/2 inch of clearance between the top 2.5 inch pulley and the lower 2 inch Metco pulley. Why a 1/2 inch? Because the Metco pulley is flat without outer flanged edges. It is flat and built specifically for an 8 rib belt.
With the Metco pulley and additional clearnace I should be able to lower the top pulley more to tighten the belt, while at the same adding more belt wrap as it is adjusted downward.
In addition with the smaller 2 inch pulley there will be clearance again to reinsert the missing bolt on the j bracket.
About the 2 inch pulley. Yes - it will spin faster, so bearing life will be shortened. However, the bearing is a little bit larger in circumference than the bearing in the ATI 2.5 inch idler pulley. Larger in circumference means it either has more roller ***** or the roller ***** are larger so each doesn't spin as fast causing heat.
Metco advises in their literature that bearing life is reduced. That said I can remove and inspect the pulley in less than an hour so it will be easy to inspect and/or replace the bearings if needed (less than $30 for SKF) every six months or so.
The bore or ID is 17mm for the Metco pulley which is the same as the bore in the ATI pulley. The bearing’s in the ATI pulley are 6003rs with an inside diameter of 17mm or .667 inches. My standoff shaft size that fits inside the bearing is 17mm.
The bearing size in the Metco pulley is a 6203-style bearings and have the standard ID of 17mm with a 40 mm outside diameter compared to the 6003 bearing in the ATI pulley that has an OD of 35 mm. Measured thickness at the ID is 12mm.
I won't know if I will have to modify my standoff until I get the Metco pulley. I might get lucky and it will bolt right on or I might have to shim it dependent on the offset of the bearings in the pulley.
And then the final question, will the K080415 still be too long or will be the next smaller size (k080400) be too short?
1) I squared off the top of the slot in the j bracket. Squaring it off allows the top idler pulley shaft to be moved upward about a 1/2 inch. A half inch makes a difference for short belts because you can raise the pulley gaining more slack in the belt in order to get the belt on.
I thought I took pics, but didn't so will take pics again when I get the pulley and remove the j bracket to show the modification to the jack screw slot and the additional drilled hole in the j bracket.
2) Adding a second 2.5 inch idler pulley doesn't allow you to insert one of the bolts to hold the head unit on the j bracket because it is not accessible behind the 2.5 inch pulley.
However to account for this I had my son (CNC programmer machinist) drill out a hole that is exactly 180 degrees opposite the largest bolt hole on the j bracket. IMO that extra hole for a bolt is actually better because it holds the head unit on center to center 180 degrees apart. Plus the bolt is also larger. Same size as the largest bolt closest to the driver side.
3) I made a standoff bolt (without a head) that I screw into the head unit when mounting or unmounting the head unit onto the j bracket. The standoff bolt allows you to hang the head unit on the j bracket without dropping it as you insert the other bolts. Insert all of the other bolts then remove the standoff bolt it and install the final bolt.
The standoff bolt also allows you to swing the head unit back and forth to remove or install the belt.
Lastly - the K080400 is the perfect length with one 2.5 inch idler pulley with a 7.65 crank pulley and 4.00 head unit pulley. My hopes are that the Metco pulley will work so I can add another idler pulley and have two pulleys instead of just one.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 11-15-2017 at 10:48 AM.
I forget if my 2nd idler is a 2.5 or a 3", but theres no way in hell the 415 belt would fit. I literally cut a belt in half by hand trying. Im using a 424 belt I found at OReilly's. I didn't see in your post how much boost you made. I also dremeled back up the slot in the J bracket so that I could back out the pulley farther to get the belt on. Maybe I should snap a couple pics of what I've got now.
I forget if my 2nd idler is a 2.5 or a 3", but theres no way in hell the 415 belt would fit. I literally cut a belt in half by hand trying. Im using a 424 belt I found at OReilly's. I didn't see in your post how much boost you made. I also dremeled back up the slot in the J bracket so that I could back out the pulley farther to get the belt on. Maybe I should snap a couple pics of what I've got now.
Patriot LQ9 low compression heads on a stock short block with Epp blower cam (232-240). Headers are American racing, with low restriction cats exiting into Magnaflow catback. Throttle body is stock with an LS6 intake.
With this setup and with the 4 inch pulley I am showing a bit over 10 lbs of boost, but need to take it back to my tuner in OK because it still has an SD tune for the 4.38 pulley. So haven't pushed it hard at all since the pulley upgrade.
Last time at the tuner, the Peformabuilt Level III failed so couldn't get accurate hp. Also had a different smaller fmic so wasn't building more than 5-6 lbs of boost with the same engine combo but with the 4.38 pulley.
Since it is now building 10 lbs of boost, perhaps more, I attribute the change to the smaller 4.0 pulley and also a better quality fmic (Mishimoto bar and plate). Perhaps less pressure drop.
With 10 lbs of boost I think it should easily make 550 rwhp with a safe tune and with methanal (I have a AlkyControl kit).
It made 565 rwhp back in 09 with essentially the same combo but with an OCX fmic, 224/228 cam and no methanol. With OCX intercooler was making about 7-8 lbs of boost.
BTW - Performabuilt stepped up and repaired for no charge.
Thanks for the tip on the belt, I might try that when I get the smaller Metco pulley.
Dyno runs were on a Mustang Dyno.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 11-15-2017 at 04:17 PM.
11-10-2017, 06:43 PM
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