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A couple comments now that I read the whole thread.
Belt slip. The problem with a static tensioner, is as the rpms go up, the belt WILL stretch, it's just simple physics. So now, the tension on the belt, and around the blower pulley, which is the load, is being reduced. The higher the rpms, the more slip, it's just physics. It's why almost every single higher hp car has a spring loaded tensioner, to keep the same amount of tension on the belt throughout the entire rpm window. If you can keep that same tension through out the rpm, belt slip should go away as long as you have the other stuff in line, ie a good belt, good pulleys, proper alignment, eliminate flex.
Exhaust. I run 1 7/8 headers, into 3" ypipe, into a 3.5" stainless works catback. It's ok, a little loud, but nothing that is too over the top. Sure, when you hit the happy peddle, it gets loud, but that's a good thing right? The other thing you can do, and I've considered it, is to put in a boost operated cutout. At like 4-6psi I think, it opens, and now you have all the free exhaust flow you could ever want. Lift, and the car is quiet. No manual buttons to hit, no forgetting to open it or close it. It's operated by your foot.
In the spring, I'm considering quieting down my exhaust a little more, and if I do, I'll put in the boost operated cutout just for the fun factor.
I'm running 1 7/8 headers as well, but to a 3 inch y and then have an electric cutout before the muffler at the borla plate. Pretty sweet that for 50 bucks and no welding or anything I was able to drop the cutout in. Just cruising around with the cutout closed it's not too loud for me. Idle it sounds pretty angry between the cam lope and blower....but that's fine
I agree on all counts on the tensioner....just don't want to drop a grand on it as I don't plan on running much more boost. If Conan's bracket stiffens it up and I see 8 or 9 psi at peak I'm cool with that. Then make some tweaks to mainly the tune and see if it'll get a 10 in some better air. It's still be in the high 70s low 80s here.
I understand your situation, I was just trying to explain it better to others why a static tensioner just won't work effectively unless you can get a belt that doesn't stretch much.
I understand your situation, I was just trying to explain it better to others why a static tensioner just won't work effectively unless you can get a belt that doesn't stretch much.
Here's your brace on my car, I put 2 washers in between the tube and head unit. Add or remove if your spacing is a little different. The nut I sent on the bolt is just for shipping, bolt threads right in the head unit. Re use the corner oil pan bolt.
Shout out to Conan! Shipped me a bracket and not only did it look great....the difference was holy crap!! It took literally 5 min to put the bracket on, I added about a half turn to the jbracket manual tensioner and took the car out. The car was stupid, a roll on in 2nd gear no downshift and it lit up the 295 50 16 MTs. I tried again at a lower rpm with some heat in the tires and it made at least another 2 maybe 3 psi and never felt like it leveled off. It pulled all the way to redline. It literally felt like another 100hp
I'll have to get the ls7 maf on the car now and retune it and get back to the track. Something to note is you can only use this bracket if you're running a 4 inch or smaller blower pulley as the spacer that has the bolt going through it to fasten into the blower barely clears the blower pulley with my 4 inch pulley. I can see light in between but that's about it lol. I'll have to check it to see after a pull if it clearances itself. Anyways, thanks Conan and here's a couple pics:
I would imagine the mechanical tensioner does flex more since the spring tensioner should be what gives first. It's a noticeable difference even at idle. It doesn't sound like marbles in a coffee can now, you just hear more howl/air from the blower.
That looks awesome. How much for you to make me one too?
Thanks
Originally Posted by conan
Here's your brace on my car, I put 2 washers in between the tube and head unit. Add or remove if your spacing is a little different. The nut I sent on the bolt is just for shipping, bolt threads right in the head unit. Re use the corner oil pan bolt.
11-18-2017, 06:23 AM
