SilV8

Figured I'd post up my latest rebuild on here, I've also got it going on the V8 240sx forum but why not here also.

I started the rebuild earlier this year so I've have quite a bit of the progress to show since it's actually almost finished.

In March of 2106 my timing chain snapped & a lifter turned in the bore. Messed up cam, bent valves & damaged pistons etc. All the fun stuff.







So at that time I didn't know if I wanted to just do another stock bottom end LS1 with some new PRC heads I had sitting around or what. After giving it thought I said screw it, I'm going to turbo it. I had bolt on's & a cam since 2010, I needed more power.

I picked up a gen3 5.3 block with a rotating assembly for absolutely dirt cheap. I also found someone else selling gen 4 pistons & rods for cheap too.

I dropped everything off at a machine shop & got the bottom end completely rebuilt. Balanced the rotating assembly, honed the cyl walls, gapped the rings, LJMS turbo cam etc







I also installed an Improved Performance baffle in my pan & one of their pickup tube hold downs.





While the motor was being built I dropped my car off with my fab guy & had him build the kit on the old motor before I pulled it out to save some time.

It's a single turbo setup with a/c. I'm using a c6 manifold on the pass side & the truck manifold on the driver side. 2.5" crossover pipe which not only clears the a/c comp but also my sway bar. The downpipe is 3" off the turbo then connects to the rest of my exhaust which is 3.5" all the way back.







Once I got everything back I started piecing everything together onto the new block. Got the PRC stage 2.5 truck heads on with ARP bolts, a/c comp on & alternator on. I built a small heat shield for the alt which may or may not do anything, we'll see.

It's a thin sheet of aluminum with heat reflective film facing the manifold & a dynamat type material on the underside.





Got my Mcleod twin disc bolted up & threw on the tranny again.




I built my own cheap sandblasting booth with stuff I had laying around or bought because I wanted to ceramic coat my hotside but I just couldn't get myself to pay the $700+ I got quoted from a shop around here. Sorry, dont have pics of everything together that I sandblasted.





I got Cerakote's air cure coating since I didnt have an oven to bake everything in. Let me tell you, people weren't lying when they say this stuff smelllllssss. WEAR A MASK!



My make-shift rack to hold everything & the finished product + some accidental scuffs from my rack falling over....go figure haha.




As of last night I finally have the turbo kit heat wrapped also & bolted up, injectors in, wiring harness all hooked up, oil feed/ return line routed, waste gate & dump tube in, belts on, radiator back in, power steering cooler installed, water pump heat ports blocked. I also tapped the top of the water pump for the steam vent tube since thatch the highest point in my cooling system.










I still have a bunch of little things to do to the car before I try to start it.

Bolt down the turbo 100%, extend my IAT plug wiring, run vacuum lines, mount my boost controller solenoid, wire up the gauges for the wideband & boost controller, bleed the clutch, make a mount for my dipstick so it doesnt pop out etc.

Hopefully my next update I'll have the car running!

Lsxford

iTrader: (6)

Looks good man, should be fun.

Im curious tho, was it a stock chain that broke? And was the chain breaking what caused the lifter to turn or the other way around somehow?

Nali6.2

badass. I envy people who have ac with a turbo car

SilV8

it was an LS2 chain, not sure what caused what. It all just happened at once & I never looked into what caused it nor did I really know how to figure it out.

SilV8

Almost there, just need to bleed the clutch, mount the AEM tru boost solenoid, fill it with water, clean up my extended IAT plug wiring & make a mount for the dip stick to bolt it back to the head.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Almost there good job,
couple notes,

-If you get a chance, move blow-off to nearby the compressor (many turbo come with it on the compressor now because so many people miss this)
-Turbo blanket
-external gate should not see vacuum (reminder)
-Oil drain line should be high quality (I would avoid using typical/ebay/chinese braided hose here) use VISIBLE rubber (use something you can SEE the quality of the rubber, a braid will hide crumbling/collapsing/clogging rubber)
-brake master/booster shield (I've seen a couple of these burn the car to the ground with SR swaps...)
-for looks, replace convoluted tube on wires with some kind of sheath, it really helps with cleaning up the engine, cut the wires to exact lengths (I Know you aren't done with wiring, just a word)

And question: Kind of curious how you control underhood temps? My OEM hood causes the LS motor to get so hot on top, the hood is scorching hot when sitting in traffic and the coils will begin to misfire from the high Temp. I am going to fab some kind of duct or create an isolated cooling loop. What sort of issues have you faced/ solutions?

SilV8

-BOV will be fine where its at
-Turbo blanket is next on the list of things to order, my sleeves for the plug wires actually arrive today too
-the WG will be hooked up correctly, it isnt my first turbo car lol, just first turbo v8
-drain/feed lines are from RPS, I'm sure they'll be fine. If I notice anything degrading with them they'll be replaced.
-I'll maybe shield the booster eventually if needed
-The wiring harness is such an eye sore. That's the next thing to check off the list after the car runs good & is tuned. I'm going to completely rewire the thing with all new look, removed plugs & reroute everything.

As for under hood temps, we'll see. I only have some of my silver heat reflective film lining the underside of the hood. That's one of the things i'm trying to avoid the most is heat under there. I wanted a new oem hood liner but they're so expensive & if I find them used theyre trashed. I'll see how everything goes & take it from there.

SilV8

Everythings finally wired up, just got to chase down to make sure all my chassis grounds are good. For some reason HPTuners cant detect my PCM. Its like its not powering up. I keep getting the detect protocol failed message.


I also got in my turbo blanket today so I need to throw that one. Once I figure out this issue with my PCM i'll be able to get my tuner over to get me going with a base tune to finally make sure everything is good.