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Major bogging/no throttle response/hesitation, mostly at cold starts

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Old 12-12-2017, 03:02 PM
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Default Major bogging/no throttle response/hesitation, mostly at cold starts

I've done some major searching and can't seem to find the exact solution..

Saab 9-7x 5.3, 222/224 113 cam, heads, LSA supercharger, LS7 MAF, stock TB, Flex Fuel... The car has been fully dyno tuned.

So here's the issue, on a cold start, typically in the morning, the engine start right up. I'll let it warm up for a minute or two, once I put it in drive, it looks like it runs lean (19-20s on AF gauge) and there is no throttle response. I'll keep giving it gas and won't go, but it's still idling. Then it will start bogging/hesitating like rough idle, and won't move. Then like 5-10 seconds later it takes off, then goes back to no throttle. After about 5-10 mins warming up, it drives well. Except sometimes, it will comes back and if I am crusing on the freeway, and give it light gas, it does the same thing. WOT is great after the car warms up..

At this point, I'm thinking its the MAF sensor, or the throttle body sensor... Any ideas?
Old 12-12-2017, 04:51 PM
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That's why data logging is necessary. Suggest you invest in a tune suite that do that...
Old 12-12-2017, 08:59 PM
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Dyno tunes usually focus on wot fueling. Probably why it does fine at wot. Sounds to me like your open loop fueling needs some serious work. Most likely only reason it drives fine once warm, is bc fuel trims are bringing it back inline via stock o2s.

i would get it street tuned for sure.
Old 12-13-2017, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1ta ls1
I've done some major searching and can't seem to find the exact solution..

Saab 9-7x 5.3, 222/224 113 cam, heads, LSA supercharger, LS7 MAF, stock TB, Flex Fuel... The car has been fully dyno tuned.

So here's the issue, on a cold start, typically in the morning, the engine start right up. I'll let it warm up for a minute or two, once I put it in drive, it looks like it runs lean (19-20s on AF gauge) and there is no throttle response. I'll keep giving it gas and won't go, but it's still idling. Then it will start bogging/hesitating like rough idle, and won't move. Then like 5-10 seconds later it takes off, then goes back to no throttle. After about 5-10 mins warming up, it drives well. Except sometimes, it will comes back and if I am crusing on the freeway, and give it light gas, it does the same thing. WOT is great after the car warms up..

At this point, I'm thinking its the MAF sensor, or the throttle body sensor... Any ideas?

And are you implying the car was fine before and this is a new problem, or a problem that has always existed ?
Old 12-13-2017, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by brandon6.0
Dyno tunes usually focus on wot fueling. Probably why it does fine at wot. Sounds to me like your open loop fueling needs some serious work. Most likely only reason it drives fine once warm, is bc fuel trims are bringing it back inline via stock o2s.

i would get it street tuned for sure.
This.

Super tuners.
Old 12-13-2017, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by brandon6.0
Dyno tunes usually focus on wot fueling. Probably why it does fine at wot. Sounds to me like your open loop fueling needs some serious work. Most likely only reason it drives fine once warm, is bc fuel trims are bringing it back inline via stock o2s.

i would get it street tuned for sure.
I'll get it back to my tuner. There was a lot to work for him fixing what the last tuner did who made a mess, especially the trans, even the fuel. I'm going to swap out my throttle position sensor at this point and check the wiring before I hand it back over to him. I'll get the before and after up.
Old 12-13-2017, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
And are you implying the car was fine before and this is a new problem, or a problem that has always existed ?
A new problem after a few weeks of my first tune it starting happening, now it happens where its become every cold start up and intermediately. That's why I'm guessing its my TPS. After my last tune, there was a lot of other fuel and trans issues fixed, but this one still remains.
Old 12-13-2017, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 1ta ls1
A new problem after a few weeks of my first tune it starting happening, now it happens where its become every cold start up and intermediately. That's why I'm guessing its my TPS. After my last tune, there was a lot of other fuel and trans issues fixed, but this one still remains.
Getting cold start right with a cammed/modified car takes skill and time. Time most tuners usually dont spend.
Old 12-13-2017, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 1ta ls1
A new problem after a few weeks of my first tune it starting happening, now it happens where its become every cold start up and intermediately. That's why I'm guessing its my TPS. After my last tune, there was a lot of other fuel and trans issues fixed, but this one still remains.
I would rule out a vacuum leak since it ran OK for a few weeks.

My Procharged 1998 Z28 exhibited same symptoms. Over time a rubber connector on a vacuum line deteriorated and finally cracked while simply moving some lines checking to make sure there were no leaks. After 10 years or so this stuff deteriorates and breaks down.

Of course that was after buying a new tps and idle air control valve both of which I didn't need (about a $100).
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Getting cold start right with a cammed/modified car takes skill and time. Time most tuners usually dont spend.
Ditto - yet they don't have a problem billing you $600 for a tune.
Old 12-14-2017, 12:55 PM
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I'm going to check the throttle body, maf sensor, and vacuum lines, rule those out. Then back to the tuner and have him work on that open loop fueling... But come to think of it, I don't have any vac lines in the intake to the crank case.
Old 12-14-2017, 02:12 PM
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Saw another thread of yours showing the conversion to an LS7 maf. You are sure issue is not related to it? Weld is leaking - tiny pin hole etc ???
Old 12-14-2017, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
Saw another thread of yours showing the conversion to an LS7 maf. You are sure issue is not related to it? Weld is leaking - tiny pin hole etc ???

Really? I didn't post anything about conversion to LS7 maf before...

I have a 4 inch filter to LS7 maf, into the throttle body. No holes. all sealed or vac lines.
Old 12-14-2017, 09:41 PM
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Sorry - my mistake - brain dead I guess

I was reading this post.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...or-option.html
Old 12-15-2017, 06:52 AM
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Just so we are clear- getting a STOCK ECU to cold start and idle on a modified setup is hard.

Doing it on a standalone is easy.
Old 12-15-2017, 03:24 PM
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Really it should be easy....GM has done most of the work for you, so you're just working with their base.

But it still doesnt seem quite clear as to whether this is a new problem, ie it ran correctly before, but now it does not, with no changes having been made beforehand...and as such a fault. Or if it has never run correctly...ie never been tuned correctly for all the mods in place.

Obviously depending on which, you need to go two different directions to resolve
Old 12-15-2017, 03:27 PM
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My hunch is that it is the reprogramming required for the LS7 maf. Did your tuner reprogram to account for the LS7 maf?
Old 12-21-2017, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
My hunch is that it is the reprogramming required for the LS7 maf. Did your tuner reprogram to account for the LS7 maf?
He said he did..
Old 12-21-2017, 03:12 PM
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SO I swapped the MAF sensor and throttle body and sensors, checked all the wire connections, still have the same issue. There are no codes, so it can't be the 02 Sensor... So next up, back to the tuner. I'll find out fuel tables and check out the open look fueling with him.



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