BlackSS4thgen

I built the last one the identical way. Definitely not converting the car to 58x. Data has never shown me a reason otherwise.
$200 for a billet reluctor lol **** that.

stevieturbo

lol.

Just seem to be a few cases of the reluctor falling apart etc when revved too hard

BlackSS4thgen

My last two engines have been 8,000+ rpm setups. This one I revved the bottom end to 8,800-8,900 a few times when I had the rec port heads on it testing shift drops and such.

With the tfs 245's it makes peak power around 7,800 with the ljms stage 4 turbo cam. Power falls off around 8,200. I shift first at 8,150 everytime.
Im going to go with a little bit more camshaft on this combo and try to squeeze another 500 rpm out of it with a super similar size. Bewley has a new lobe design for me to try out. He says they are similar in size but a little less ramp aggressive, easier on the valve train, and they are carrying power slightly higher because of it.

stevieturbo

Some pretty impressive rpm's !

Launch

This car is a beast, well done.

I agree on the 24x wheel. If it aint broke, don't change it.

BlackSS4thgen

Ive even seen resolution issues with 58x stuff when a weak batter or charging system is present. Due to the 24x sensors being a higher voltage they have a stronger charge. Usually not an issue until over 7,700-8,000 but Ive seen it more so on 58x then on 24x.

I agree to the wheels having issues though. That is why evertime a crank comes out around me the reluctor gets aligned and tigged. I havent had any issues since my first learning curve. Turbo 5.3 and reluctor continued to move. Along the lines of being 10 degrees advance.

zssman

iTrader: (9)

I may of missed it. what water pump do you use?

Launch

Yeah I know they can move which is why i like your idea of tig welding the stock 24x wheel and not needing a billet one.

BlackSS4thgen

I still have the original ls1 from the car. I put new seals in it when I first got it at 100k miles. Probably put 20k on it since being boosted.

BlackSS4thgen

Heck yea. I havent had an issue yet man! I dont even use any filler just use the heat of the torch.

Game ova

Just curious, but have you had any premature valvespring issues. I always wonder about the life of springs on high revving applications.

BlackSS4thgen

Yes actually they do wear quicker. While I ran the dart pro 1 ls3 heads for 2-3,000 miles. They had a 2.165 intake valve. I encountered a "rev limiter" sooner and sooner. Eventually I ruined the heads and when I pulled them apart I realized why. All of the intake valve springs were within a half inch of height. Just trashed. So since I switched to the TFS heads with a slightly smaller valve. My plan is/was to change them maybe mid summer?

I put 5-6,000 miles on the car a year. Most of the street miles are abused as well lol.

Game ova

I'm assuming with as hard as your car runs, it's a max effort setup, so are you running an xe type cam? Just using this as a data point, that's all.

BlackSS4thgen

I have no idea what lobes the cam is designed off from honestly. Ive never asked. It is an off the shelf ljms stage 4 cam. I was starting off with that before having one made for my combo. Since its sort of copy/paste. But it worked real well.
Im actually having him make one for me right now. He talked me into it. Trying to get another 500 rpm out of the combo.

BlackSS4thgen

BlackSS4thgen

svslow

Its so shiny.

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

So what is your method for sealing this up ?

I got a Dart Ls Next with a stefs oil pan ( very similar to yours ), and it is always a nightmare getting the oil pan, and covers on.

If you can get into specifics/details it would be appreciated.

BlackSS4thgen

The oil pan is the shittiest part of this engine setup for sure. I seriously just use a ton of silicone, let it dry. Trim off any excess. Then apply another layer over.
After the second try I was tired of it. Third try it finally stopped leaking.

stevieturbo

Some 3bond on it and it will seal well. Normal silicone would just be ok.