AZD

Does anyone have any experience with Huron Speed Turbo kits? They are cheaper than pro chargers and they can get around 620 horsepower while keeping A/C.

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Yeah. My car is making 935 to the ground with one of their V1 kits.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Like all other kits they have their pluses and minuses. It requires an aftermarket k member which is about $550 and either pulling the motor or suspending it to swap out the k on the front cradle assembly. Many also have to relocate power steering lines. I highly suggest heat wrapping everything with this kit. Got a friend who DDs a car with their V2 ac kit.

AZD

Do you think their kits would make a good daily driver, and how hard is the install for one of their kits?

AZD

Is there any kits that exist that you could keep your A/C and not have to swap out your k member, or are turbos a either/or?

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Would make a fine daily driver sure. ddnspider pretty much hit on everything as far as install.

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Huron Speed makes a kit that keeps a/c but I think you need to swap k members with all of them.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Nobody does anymore. There were kits in the past but nobody makes them anymore.

AZD

I think I might get some type of charger than because of the ease of install, also does anyone know of any kits that would Rival a D1SC, or is that the best bet?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Basic choices are:

-Powerdyne (really old, scarce, and generally thought of as crap and won't be able to make your 600hp goal).

-Vortech makes an LS based kit, but requires another kit by a 3rd party company who I don't think is a sponsor on here to get it in an Fbody. Everything is mounted up high including the intercooler so working on the car is a bit of a PITA unless you unbolt/remove the cooler and stuff to get at the intake manifold etc. Power is comparable to the Procharger if you get the right model.

-Procharger is the main system that caters to LS1's in an Fbody specific application. We have a sponsor on here who sells kits new, Brutespeed. New kits are in the $6500-7000 range. If you want to stay around 600hp or less, the P1SC is what people use. If you want flexibility and room to grow, people choose the D1SC as it'll make 500-800hp without a prob.

AZD

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

There aren't really any. Typically you don't make a bunch of back to back pulls, but that is about keeping the motor and trans alive. Check the belt every now and then, keep the oil fresh and run colder plugs. Someone will obviously have to do a good tune on the car which will help with idle and stuff. The higher you rev the car the more boost you'll make which means you're HP increases as long as you rev it for so it doesn't really ever "peak" like an N/A car.

AZD

dlandsvZ28

Maybe missed it in this long thread - six speed or auto?

IMO - auto is easier to manage the extra rwhp than a six speed. But that's just an opinion based on my experience between my 2012 six speed Corvette Grand Sport and my A4 Procharged Camaro (565 rwhp).

The Camaro has significantly more rwhp than the GS. The GS handles better on the twisties than the Camaro (significantly). The Camaro is much easier to control straight line. The Camaro doesn't feel as fast straight line, but it is significantly.

I imagine you will want to the get an adrenalin rush most of the time going straightline. With an auto and the ATI SC it's pretty much linear as you accelerate.

From time to time I buy used parts for my Z from a salvage yard. There's at least 30-50 wrecked Camaro's there - always a fresh supply. Hopefully that will tell you something. God willing, mine is not there yet.

AZD

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Yup, thats part of the fun lol. Either your tires will go up in smoke or it will pull hard lol. Thats the neat part with my current setup.....cam, 3600 stall, and the D1SC....from a 45mph roll on 295/50/16 drag radials the car will instantly jump into boost and start pulling. dlandsz28 makes a good point, with an auto belt slip is also less as there isnt violent gear changes like with a manual.

AZD

dlandsvZ28

With an auto you are less likely to break drive train parts as easily.

With the new found power might want to check out the auto forum and get some tips on how to drive an auto - some do's and dont's. What you might currently be doing perhaps you shouldn't be doing.

Spider has a good sticky on over-revving a stock A4.

Don't let your tuner talk you into revving to 7 k for example. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

Get rpm limit specs from your tranny builder - Frank at Performabuilt for example explains some important things to know.

There are some reasonably inexpensive upgrades you can make to the stock 10 bolt until your budget can afford an industrial strength rear end.

A solid pinion spacer, ta cover, LPW brace rods for example.

Note: I've got all three vendor upgrades - Founders, IMO, has suspension upgrades that are a little cheaper. You gotta make each dollar count.

AZD

dlandsvZ28

Unless you got Big, Big Big hp, the first 60 foot usually determines winners and losers. Your rearend ratio, tire size if not stock, and torque converter all play a role.

IMO, educate yourself on torque converters. Loose as a goose is no fun. Yank and other vendors build converters tuned for forced induction. I have a Yank PY 3450. Drives almost like stock until it hits right about the same time the SC has built about 3-4 lbs of boost. Then the pull is linear until you run out of highway or hit rev limiter.