Turbo"d now pushing oil out the valve covers help please
04-24-2018, 10:58 AM
#43
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That's how I run mine right now. I have oil breathers in place of the fill cap, and for the passenger side I put a driver side cover and did the same breather. I also have both the ports on the valve covers referenced to the intake with check valves so they see vacuum but not boost. I do still have a slight puff of oily mist behind me when I'm in it at 16# for a long time, not sure there's anything left that I can do on that though. Several people have told me it's just because it's an old worn out motor and I'd have to completely tear it down and rebuild/rering it to make that go away.
04-24-2018, 12:29 PM
#45
even if a motor had no rings in it, it shouldn't smoke out the exhaust. unless you're putting oil in the cylinder or you're building enough crankcase pressure to back up oil in the turbo and push it out the turbine side. i'd reconsider your pcv set up
04-24-2018, 01:54 PM
#49
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I had bad consumption and lots of smoke under boost, so I ran the filler filters and it cured about 90% of it. Like I said, there’s still some smoke under high sustained boost but it’s still a 90% improvement. Thing is though, I can smell it in the cabin and the breathers are oily so I really need a catch can. The only reason I did the filler breathers is because I had one already laying around and one of the shops I work for had another. It was almost free for me. If you’re gonna spend $100 on filler breathers and hoses and check valves you should just go the last yard and get a proper MM can or something.
04-24-2018, 03:09 PM
#51
80/TA/LT1.....
I'm running passenger side valve covers on both sides with AN line going to a catch can and breather. Works great.
You can see my breather setup from 5:00 to 5:30 in this rambletron video I made.
Question for you guys that have busted ringlands.... How did you do it and more importantly what did you learn as far as avoiding it??? Too much timing advance leading to detonation is the principle cause right?
I'm running passenger side valve covers on both sides with AN line going to a catch can and breather. Works great.
You can see my breather setup from 5:00 to 5:30 in this rambletron video I made.
Question for you guys that have busted ringlands.... How did you do it and more importantly what did you learn as far as avoiding it??? Too much timing advance leading to detonation is the principle cause right?
04-24-2018, 04:37 PM
#52
i think on the edge timing and a tank of shitty gas did me in. also going hard off the stock rev limiter which is fuel cut only is bad news. now I just yank timing above my target limit so the power just gently leans over and i can back out of it.
added water/meth to the next combo and all was well 19 psi on pump gas with ~12* timing.
if you spray water/meth though you def need to add a vacuum type PCV and catch can. you get a nice frothy milkshake around your breather if you don't
added water/meth to the next combo and all was well 19 psi on pump gas with ~12* timing.
if you spray water/meth though you def need to add a vacuum type PCV and catch can. you get a nice frothy milkshake around your breather if you don't
04-24-2018, 05:10 PM
#54
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Truckdoug, I think my problem is it’s a 260k mike motor and the rings are gone, which I agree wouldn’t directly cause oil out the exhaust, I think what’s happening is I have so much blow by that I’m pressurizing the valve covers and pushing past my valve seals. It’s either that, or my turbo is just junk. The second option is TOTALLY a possibility though because it’s a cxracing turbo. I’ve been heavily considering pulling the trigger on a legit borg turbo and seeing if I keep my issues. If I do, then it’s motor side... that’s an expensive part to shotgun though, and I “only” consume about 2 qts an oil change, so I’m not really THAT worried about it, it just sucks having oily residue on my tailgate is all.
Do do you think a catch can could solve it?
Do do you think a catch can could solve it?
04-24-2018, 05:20 PM
#55
I just realized that ddnspider mentioned not relying on the fuel cut rev limiter in a thread I posted asking for pointers... I incorporated all of the suggestions but completely forgot about that one because I guess I didn't think about it enough to wrap my knuckle-head around it.
So Doug, you have your fuel RPM cutoff maxxed out, effectively disabling it and are relying on your timing table as your safety net? Would you be so kind as to post a snapshot of your timing table showing where, how you've done this?
Game ova: Who said they're running 4:56 lol?
So Doug, you have your fuel RPM cutoff maxxed out, effectively disabling it and are relying on your timing table as your safety net? Would you be so kind as to post a snapshot of your timing table showing where, how you've done this?
Game ova: Who said they're running 4:56 lol?
04-24-2018, 05:53 PM
#56
1 of the main issues with the fuel cut is that people, including GM, set the re-enable rpm too close to the fuel cut....hence banging off the limiter as there is a back and forth cut, no cut, cut, no cut. If you do set the rev limiter to a number, set the re-enable WELL below. Yes you'll sacrifice the race, but there won't be any banging on the limiter. We hit the limiter on a turbo 5.3 and it felt like the car shut off until we realized it was still running at speed lol. Fuel cut kicked in and it didn't turn the injectors back on until like 5-700 rpms lower lol. As truck Doug said, yank timing too. Both of those combined should keep the motor together if you peg the limiter under boost.
04-24-2018, 07:54 PM
#57
Truckdoug, I think my problem is it’s a 260k mike motor and the rings are gone, which I agree wouldn’t directly cause oil out the exhaust, I think what’s happening is I have so much blow by that I’m pressurizing the valve covers and pushing past my valve seals. It’s either that, or my turbo is just junk. The second option is TOTALLY a possibility though because it’s a cxracing turbo. I’ve been heavily considering pulling the trigger on a legit borg turbo and seeing if I keep my issues. If I do, then it’s motor side... that’s an expensive part to shotgun though, and I “only” consume about 2 qts an oil change, so I’m not really THAT worried about it, it just sucks having oily residue on my tailgate is all.
Do do you think a catch can could solve it?
Do do you think a catch can could solve it?
I drill the driver side valve cover restrictor out and tap it for 1/2 npt. I run 1/2 hose to a baffled breather can. The pass side I use a very common catch can set up that only works at vacuum. A check valve prevents boost from entering it. At idle and cruise I pull air in thru driver side breather can, thru the crankcase to grab any moisture and unburnt hydrocarbons into the catch can. At boost any crankcase pressure vents out the driver side vave cover into the aforementioned breather can. it works *******.
Q: did you pull it apart and de-sludge the pistons or anything before boosting it? many motors i have seen the 2nd ring and the oil rings 100% solid with coked, burnt oil.
I generally dont mess with < 200k motors as good running low mile motors never make it to the u-pull-it haha
04-24-2018, 08:35 PM
#58
i had bad consumption and lots of smoke under boost, so i ran the filler filters and it cured about 90% of it. Like i said, there’s still some smoke under high sustained boost but it’s still a 90% improvement. Thing is though, i can smell it in the cabin and the breathers are oily so i really need a catch can. The only reason i did the filler breathers is because i had one already laying around and one of the shops i work for had another. It was almost free for me. If you’re gonna spend $100 on filler breathers and hoses and check valves you should just go the last yard and get a proper mm can or something.
04-24-2018, 08:37 PM
#60
i think on the edge timing and a tank of shitty gas did me in. Also going hard off the stock rev limiter which is fuel cut only is bad news. Now i just yank timing above my target limit so the power just gently leans over and i can back out of it.
Added water/meth to the next combo and all was well 19 psi on pump gas with ~12* timing.
If you spray water/meth though you def need to add a vacuum type pcv and catch can. You get a nice frothy milkshake around your breather if you don't
Added water/meth to the next combo and all was well 19 psi on pump gas with ~12* timing.
If you spray water/meth though you def need to add a vacuum type pcv and catch can. You get a nice frothy milkshake around your breather if you don't