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LS Hilux with twins

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Old 05-03-2018, 03:41 AM
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Default LS Hilux with twins

Hey folks, thought I'd start a build thread here since LS1tech has helped me a lot along the way on my project, and will no doubt continue to do so as more gets done. Am posting from New Zealand, and LS recipient is a vehicle you NA guys might not know much about. Truck is a 2005 2wd Toyota Hilux - think Tacoma-like pickup - though here we call em utes

Have built a few cars throughout the years and after several years hiatus (having little people to look after), thought it was about time for another project car. However having always ending up jaded over how you seem to burn more money than you could have ever imagined, this was the first car that I bought already modified, as figured may as well make good on someone elses financial hemorrhage. The truck had been transplanted with a drag-spec LT1 350 chev and 4L60E auto. Not sure I have any pics from when I first bought it but did a few things including deleting the chromy bits to this spec:





Problem with buying a premodified truck though is after owning for some months I found more and more stuff where the quality of 'craftsmanship' drove me insane. Stuff like washers spacing out the custom front brakes to make them fit (R32 calipers and bigger rotors), modified crossmembers reinforced with mild steel chequer plate with zero care/attention to detail (no deburr), sloppily fabricated exhaust that was unremovable without cutting etc. Also the LT1 had way too big a cam for just punting around the streets day to day so ended up deciding to reinvent the shiny lux...

First up came new wheels and coilovers up front but most importantly the LT1 had to go. Keeping the American iron theme I imported a low miles '08 4.8 (gen IV) from a Silverado.
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Could've bought a bigger motor but plan is is to turbo it and hopefully get the best of both worlds - being fuel economy underneath boost, and insane crazy power when so desired. Also thanks to info from this site bought a few parts to turbo ready the LY2, including PAC1218 springs, new valve seals, LS9 head gaskets, ARP head bolts, LS7 lifters and a Jarrett special Isky ground cam (triple 12).





Gave heads a skim while off








More later...
Old 05-03-2018, 07:08 AM
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Nice Hilux! Always liked the overseas trucks/utes. Have a '61 Ranchero. Looking forward to the build.
Old 05-04-2018, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bad Apache
Nice Hilux! Always liked the overseas trucks/utes. Have a '61 Ranchero. Looking forward to the build.
Thanks man, I tried to check out yer build thread but couldnt seem to look at the pics...

So bit the bullet and bought one of these bad boys:



Is a TR6060 out of a '11 Commodore (GTO), gonna be a pain to make work given remote shifter and fixed output flange but wanted something bulletproof versus T56 that may or may not last. Also bought a fancy new clutch (Mcleod twin plate). Is a strange feeling buying a clutch that is worth more than yer daily...





Also, meet the twins!






Fresh outa Taiwan the turbos are Kinugawa GTX3067R clones. Plan is to have a fat mid range setup that can be quick into boost for a fast daily driver, but capable of good fuel economy if only tootling around the city. In that respect I wanted turbos that were small but not so small that you couldnt cruise around underneath boost. Spent WAY too much time reading threads on here and other forums to try and figure out how to size these accordingly, and ended up with the above based on how they seem to go RB25DETs, EJ25s etc and fact that the odd LS1 setup seems to run GT28 size turbos OK. Kinugawa stuff has a good rep over here with tales of reliability not far off Garrett and a little (though not a lot) cheaper. The compressor is similar flow characteristics to the ole GT2871R, but spools a bit faster and paired to GT30R exhaust housing - hopefully wont choke the 2.4L each side of the 293 too early whaddya think?...
Old 05-04-2018, 08:37 AM
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where did you pick those turbos up at?
Old 05-04-2018, 11:41 AM
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Kinugawa are ebay turbos claiming to be from Japan.

Remote shifter should be easy enough to adapt ?

And I think there are places who can offer a slip yoke conversion for the output ?
Old 05-04-2018, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by shiny_lux
Thanks man, I tried to check out yer build thread but couldnt seem to look at the pics...

So bit the bullet and bought one of these bad boys:



Is a TR6060 out of a '11 Commodore (GTO), gonna be a pain to make work given remote shifter and fixed output flange but wanted something bulletproof versus T56 that may or may not last. Also bought a fancy new clutch (Mcleod twin plate). Is a strange feeling buying a clutch that is worth more than yer daily...





Also, meet the twins!






Fresh outa Taiwan the turbos are Kinugawa GTX3067R clones. Plan is to have a fat mid range setup that can be quick into boost for a fast daily driver, but capable of good fuel economy if only tootling around the city. In that respect I wanted turbos that were small but not so small that you couldnt cruise around underneath boost. Spent WAY too much time reading threads on here and other forums to try and figure out how to size these accordingly, and ended up with the above based on how they seem to go RB25DETs, EJ25s etc and fact that the odd LS1 setup seems to run GT28 size turbos OK. Kinugawa stuff has a good rep over here with tales of reliability not far off Garrett and a little (though not a lot) cheaper. The compressor is similar flow characteristics to the ole GT2871R, but spools a bit faster and paired to GT30R exhaust housing - hopefully wont choke the 2.4L each side of the 293 too early whaddya think?...
that's a large variance in wheel size for something that's being set up as parallel twin turbo.

id be interested to see how that goes on 4.8ltr
Old 05-04-2018, 12:01 PM
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Variance in wheel sizes ?
Old 05-04-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Variance in wheel sizes ?
He probably thinks 3067 is the size of the turbo lol
Old 05-04-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z
He probably thinks 3067 is the size of the turbo lol
hahaha, i'll pay that. I mean the 50mm comp wheel vs the 67mm turbine wheel. that is from what ive seen quite a large variation for a twin set up. most twin LS set ups ive seen are quite close. e.g. 69mm/73mm or 66mm/62mm. usually the single turbo have a big difference on cars that make grunt on little boost e.g. 80mm/88mm 75mm/83mm.

as I said id be interested to see how it goes,
Old 05-04-2018, 04:10 PM
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Awesome swap you have going !! I also have a 2005 Hilux in Honduras.
Old 05-04-2018, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyle.t91
where did you pick those turbos up at?
There are local suppliers here, but these come from ebay since like many things in NZ, if you can find an economical way to ship stuff it usually ends up cheaper to import yerself. Turbos are made in Taiwan, dual ceramic ball bearing and have a good rep in the jap car scene which is big over here.
Old 05-04-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke19901
hahaha, i'll pay that. I mean the 50mm comp wheel vs the 67mm turbine wheel. that is from what ive seen quite a large variation for a twin set up. most twin LS set ups ive seen are quite close. e.g. 69mm/73mm or 66mm/62mm. usually the single turbo have a big difference on cars that make grunt on little boost e.g. 80mm/88mm 75mm/83mm.

as I said id be interested to see how it goes,
I get confused reading these boards for the same reason as yer confused haha, Garrett being the dominant turbos over these ways its taken me ages to figure out the mm/mm naming convention and it seems like that can change btw different suppliers where the exducer inducer sizes are quoted interchangeably making it hard to compare apples to apples... Anyway, this turbo uses a 67mm (exducer) comp wheel and 60mm (inducer) turbine wheel, so in BW language thatd be a 6760 (making it similar in size to the EFR 6758). The newer style 67 wheel flows about the same as the old Garrett 71mm comp wheel so these turbos should be faster spooling GT3071Rs (acknowledging they are copies - though very shiny and seemingly very well made ones at that!)

Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Kinugawa are ebay turbos claiming to be from Japan.

Remote shifter should be easy enough to adapt ?

And I think there are places who can offer a slip yoke conversion for the output ?
Yeah have a plan for the remote shifter, its been done before so should work - just not as simple as the direct mount solution which wouldve been possible with a T56. And re the slip in the back would definitely be the easy way, but the conversion is pretty spenny and nice thing with the Hilux it is already a two piece driveshaft, so just gonna graft the Commodore shaft into the Hilux front and use as is.
Old 05-04-2018, 06:11 PM
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I've heard of guys using some shift mech from a BMW when using a 6060 ? Not sure which one though, or where it leaves the stick.
Old 05-04-2018, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I've heard of guys using some shift mech from a BMW when using a 6060 ? Not sure which one though, or where it leaves the stick.
Great will have a look at that...

Out with the old in with the new (ish)







Big lump of a box fits the tunnel - massive relief there! Can see where shifter linkage is going to have to go, will prolly still have to trim the back side of the tunnel opening ...



Old 05-04-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by shiny_lux
Thanks man, I tried to check out yer build thread but couldnt seem to look at the pics...
...
Old 05-04-2018, 09:57 PM
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Sorry about the picture size.

This body style/design is the closest we have to what I would call a ute.

Now back to your badass Hilux!
Old 05-05-2018, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bad Apache
Sorry about the picture size.

This body style/design is the closest we have to what I would call a ute.

Now back to your badass Hilux!
Looks rowdy man, bet it sounds it too with the zoomies!


More updates to catch this up to present day...

LT1 motor had a rear sump but motor was mounted high enough that it sat above the crossmember/steering rack. Was hoping could do the same with the LS but since the motor has to sit low to get the box down the tunnel - no deal on the factory rear sump...

First solution - got hold of a commodore LS1 sump which puts the bowl up front. Still fouled the steering rack so second solution - hit the scrappy for some 8mm ali plate



Wish I could say the above worked out, but sadly the final weld kept cracking as it was cooling down so needed to grind out and reweld several times. I finally got it to stick (by piling on blankets and controlling the cool down), stoked. Went to bolt it up and sump was warped due to putting so much heat into the stubborn bit. Commodore pan went in the bin (or rather the scrappy for a $8 rebate on a weekends worth of frustration), and gave up on the factory sumps.

Third solution was one of these ex Summit, much better fit, didn't have to cut down my oil capacity as with modified factory sump, and has a port for the turbo oil feeds built it.




Only problem with the above was that the flared bit of the sump was a bit too wide, and wouldnt clear the crossmember brace on one side. Sump is zinc coated so decided to leave that unmolested and deal with the brace instead. Cutty cutty



Old 05-05-2018, 07:53 AM
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Very cool build!
Old 05-06-2018, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mOtOrHeAd MiKe
Very cool build!
Cheers man!

So engine fits - with 2x4 offcuts for engine mounts. Even with ridiculous tall TBSS manifold. Not by much as the motor is as low as poss over the steering rack with the low profile 20138 pan and still prolly only 20mm clearance above the engine cover. Nice to be able to use that manifold though, given it was free and seems to make more torque/power than the other factory intakes.




Next was to make engine mounts not made outa wood. Left the toyo outrigger thingees intact chassis side, and fabbed adaptor plates to work with some generic urethane mounts that were for some ye olde jeep thing... Needed to get trigonometrical matching the plane of the existing outriggers to block V. Tried by eye to start but math > measuring **** by finger width.



Old 05-06-2018, 03:32 AM
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Or a quick google on options....looks fairly easy to adapt something


You can get shifters that will bolt onto the 4 bolt location, but it doesnt really look like they would be ideal for you anyway, so probably a waste of money



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