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You may know this but some don't assemble your drain line get the drip as straight as possible get it all tight as u can and the. Weld it don't just weld it on there and hope for the best it sux if it's to long or to short and the threads won't engage. If you tap it don't run the rap all the way down tap it a little the try the fitting and keep doing this until I the fitting is very very tight and it's oriented exactly where u need.. I used a 45 so I had room for fingers wrenches etc. Without hitting the block also it's not to sharp of an angle to cause oil to slow down and back up
Ok. Many people have been saying timing cover so I’ll look at that. Didn’t really want to pull it back off since it has a new gasket, bolts loctited and torqued, and it’s been adjusted perfectly. But I’ll look nonetheless. I also purchased a fitting that doesn’t need welded. It’s held with a nut on the backside and has some aluminum crush washers with an inner rubber seal. Looks like it will hold just fine and I’ll put some thread retainer (green loctite) on the inside threads. It’ll never come loose. Only thing is, if I use it in the timing cover, I’m not sure how the threads on the inside will clear anything that might be in the way. I’ll take a look.
I looked at the clearance behind the cover and it appears to be very tight. Those indents in the cover that "look" like they'd be perfect to tap a fitting, are actually there to clear the oil pump bolts (as I'm sure most of you are aware but I was not until after inspecting further). So...I think I've marked it in the location it would fit best. I was thinking I'll drill and tap the cover. Then, I may be able to grind the interior of the fitting inside and if I'm lucky, tig a bead around the inside. We'll see what happens I suppose.
tried multiple times to upload two other pics. won't work. anyway....hole welded closed and wanted confirmation on location in front cover but can't post pic. shows as broken.
I’m glad you posted this. I’m doing a turbo on my car as I type this. I’m building the manifold right now but earlier today I was looking at it and was gonna put my drain right under the bottom nub on the timing cover. You think I have clearance on the driver side? I’m doing a single turbo on the driver driver side. I was gonna drill and tap, jb weld it in and grind it flush on the back side.
I think there is more room on the driver side. The pickup tube is on the passenger where I need to drill...makes it a really tight location almost necessitating a flush fit inside the cover. I'll tig the inside and then grind off as well.
I think there is more room on the driver side. The pickup tube is on the passenger where I need to drill...makes it a really tight location almost necessitating a flush fit inside the cover. I'll tig the inside and then grind off as well.
thanks. I may tig it on the inside as well. I need to touch up on my aluminum welding skills. They suck.
you can always buy a pre-welded cover with the fittings, but i figure why have all the stuff to do it myself and pay $90 extra to have someone else do it for me?
Going from memory, I think in my 65 Buick I used the GM Hot Rod pan. I was able to just fit a #10 fitting right
below the balancer in the center of the front of the pan. I drilled and tapped it, used JB weld more for a sealer.
It took some careful meas., but there was enough room. I will have to dig for a pic.
ok. so i hope this is it. seems tight in there, hopefully you guys give the ok and I'll tig the back of it, and slam it all back together. I kind of set the accessories in place so you can get an idea of how it will all set. Must keep the ac.
So now that I have the return line port in and welded and I purchased the supply line fitting to go in the oil feel on the side of the pan, will I no longer be using an oil cooler? Doesnt that oil pan supply port go to an oil cooler? I can’t recall but it seems thats what it would have for. Also, where would the oil return for the oil cooler have been?
05-08-2018, 08:26 PM
