TURBO headers SS header studs loosening...ugh
 

I've had good luck with these. http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/

I installed those on the spohn torque arm bolted to the rearend because the standard lock washers were loosening up after a few pulls on my old firebird build. it didn't come loose anymore before I sold it!

yeah nordlocks are about it. heat breaks down loctite

Interesting... I have those on a supercharger kit that is used between the crank pulley and the balancer bolt to attach a drive hub... never knew why the washer was like that but it makes sense now lol.

So... where does one get those from and which style do i need? I see the washers and the SC washers etc.

McMaster-carr.com was where I got mine from. they're based in new jersey

Cool. Im also in NJ but they aren't that close and shipping sucks lol.

it usually comes in 2 days via usps from what I recall, and i'm over a bit past philly.

Just ordered 2 packs of 5, M8 x .63" OD 316 stainless. Lets hope!

Stage 8 fasteners man. I have them on both my CTS-V and my SBC race car and have never had one come loose. Also installed them on a friends 2015 Z28. They're a bit pricey, but 100% worth it. Set it and forget it type of thing.

Did you see the pic of the header? I can't even get my fingers or a socket on the nuts. Its the reason I went with studs... helps me get it all situated and then finger tip graze the nut to the flange and then a open end wrench to tighten down. If I had the room I would possibly give stage 8 a try, but ive also run these same studs on the same engine with a supercharger with LT headers and never had one loosen up. I have a feeling its the extra heat and backpressure loosening it after a few heat cycles.

You should be running the factory MLS/stainless gaskets, less room for error from heat cycling (I'd don't care what Remflex has to say). Also blue Loctite isn't rated for any heat, even red won't hold the nut during high heat - maybe green on the stud into the head and on the threads for the nut?

Finally, you can try double-nutting the offending fastener.

I'm not running the MLS style gasket. Reason is the cheap hotside, I've learned that nothing is flat on the flange ever. The remflex allow warped/non flat flanges to seal perfectly and are turbo friendly to heat/pressure... basically guarantees a leak free seal unless the flange is totally fucked. I figured the heat would kill the blue loctite ... not sure how hot the studs will get/ heads are less than 200*F, flanges are attached as well as studs I'm sure it limits there temp.

Ive ordered the special lock washers above so maybe I can get them to stop, I've also thought about double nutting the stud... just gotta get the correct stupid metric thread extra nuts.

Aren't the MLS gaskets the reason why the GM exhaust bolts snap? Due to the heat expansion of 2 different metals and the gaskets dont allow any extra "give", combine with the heating and cooling and expansion snaps the studs? I would run the MLS if I was sure they wouldn't leak... but boost and a leak pre turbo = incorrect tuning AFR and motor pops.

+1 for Nord-Locks. I used them for years on turbo rotary engines that regularly see 1700F EGTs. Switching to Nord-Locks stopped all my loose fastener and exhaust gasket leaks.
I also had great luck with Remflex gaskets, particularly with thin-flanged aftermarket manifolds. They hold up to the heat great, they just aren't really reusable.

i had the same issue ,went with the Stage 8 fasteners

i use the ARP stud kit and its never loosened on me once in 5 years.

You got the concept right. Differing rates of thermal expansion. But it's that difference between the aluminum head and the cast iron manifold. The end bolts get it worst since that's where the greatest growth difference is.

Used MLS gaskets 4 lyfe

ive been using and reusing the exhaust manifold MLS gaskets for years now. also take a grinder and hog out your end bolt holes on the manifold about 1/8" horizontally and youll never have a problem again with broken end bolts.