When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I can't put the A/C back on with the kit I have, the heat I could but I never drive it when it's really cold anyway.
My dilemma is do I spend the money on the conversion or put that money with money back from selling this towards the Z06. I'm really tossing that idea around in my head.
Ok. Well, I understand where you are at. But just know that if you follow through, that heads cam z06 will feel like it's down 3 holes....compared to your car.
Ok. Well, I understand where you are at. But just know that if you follow through, that heads cam z06 will feel like it's down 3 holes....compared to your car.
Yeah I am sure I would miss being boosted and second guess myself.
So I made some changes and tried to get a datalog of me in 3rd gear from a slowish roll 25ish MPH. I've added 2 springs to the WG and compressor tested the WG to crack open at 25-27psi. I suspect I'm in the 2:1 pressure ratio given my compressor opening pressure and actual boost. I verified my MAP sensor is reading somewhat accurate but will probably swap from my bosch to AC delco (china vs germany). The AC delco tested dead accurate at 10psi where the Bosch read about 4kpa low. But I had to use a crazy high neg offset to get the GM AC delco to read 100.5kpa EOKO.
Anyways the data... Dual springs in WG = 25-27psi cracking pressure on compressor. Log shows MAX MAP at 183kpa or 12psi, boost Gauge shows max boost at 13.3psi so I think the MAP is reading about 1.3psi off. 25-27psi Compressor in 2:1 is about 12.5-13.5psi at the engine so I think the 2:1 ratio is acceptable. Below is a dumbed down log to just show the goodies. I have increased fueling to 11.5:1 AFR in boost and its learning to get there with the 50/50 meth. Car felt really good, When i get on it the tires are either starting to spin or the WG cracks open cuz I either hear tire squeal or like the WG cracking open causing a squeal noise possibly (thinking tires tho) so I let into it slow but still only managed 1/2 throttle or 57% but it wasnt a great place to log (hill with a large sharp curve at the top) as I have to let out. Engine revs quick and boost seems to start soon but the logs show it builds alittle slow. But at 1/2 throttle I would assume it would, waiting for the new tires to arrive today and get them mounted and see what it does then. Wont be able to test for over a week as I'll be away on vacation. Decided to keep it simple on the tires, MT street SS 275/45/18 for a little more sidewall height which will lower my gear a little being 27.8" tall vs the 26.7" my current 275/40r18s are.
Heres a screen shot of the log. 11:1 rich at max boost but its still learning.
Said it once, you will not hit full boost with a slow roll on like you are doing. I can almost get to WOT by rolling on it slow and not see any boost. Stop being a wussy and rug the thing, lol.
Said it once, you will not hit full boost with a slow roll on like you are doing. I can almost get to WOT by rolling on it slow and not see any boost. Stop being a wussy and rug the thing, lol.
HAHA. I know! No good areas to test but the tires are useless with boost. LIKE I SAID! I also said that I just ordered (and received today) my new MT Streets drag radials... I hope that These will help be hook a bit more and thus hopefully things won't be so scary.
HAHA. I know! No good areas to test but the tires are useless with boost. LIKE I SAID! I also said that I just ordered (and received today) my new MT Streets drag radials... I hope that These will help be hook a bit more and thus hopefully things won't be so scary.
I would take the spring back out of your gate so that you don't overboost and blow it up. How much meth are you spraying? I'd personally run it richer than normal in case the meth stops working it won't go too lean. That's if you're running higher than pumpgas boost and a lot of meth.
I just wonder how much power this thing is making, to where you can't go more than 1/2 throttle without "blowing the tires off".
Supposidly my sumimoto HTRZ IIs aren't the best tire... and they were less than $150 a pop so I wouldn't disagree. I thought they were decent but I've never run them any smaller than 315 before, these are 275 and I would say they are decent once you get moving. Going half throttle quickly I get squeal and the *** end gets fishy so my instinct is to let off as I have to test on the streets. Its a high mileage 5.3 but custom cam and ported heads, TBSS intake 92mm TB. I was guessing 375hp NA?! Boost to 14psi would be essentially double that so maybe 650-700hp? I feel like the not so great tires at 275 is the main issue. Not like I'm running toyo proxies or a decent high end summer tire. I got more invested in my rear tires now than I did in my engine when I bought it. Its still running the stock ring gaps and all, never even removed a cap or checked any clearances. I'm sure the new tires will change all that and they look pretty good even being just a 275 DR.
I would take the spring back out of your gate so that you don't overboost and blow it up. How much meth are you spraying? I'd personally run it richer than normal in case the meth stops working it won't go too lean. That's if you're running higher than pumpgas boost and a lot of meth.
Thought about it. It seems to get higher and higher at this point boost wise. I logged on the way home but had **** time trying to go WOT on the highway on ramp (got stuck behind a slow *** car and truck) got to 78% TPS and boost is at 186kpa even though my boost gauge showed 14.5psi max on the recall. I think my MAP is off 2psi.
I'm spraying 750ish CC via a single nozzle. Not A lot by any means and its only 50/50, I will be going back to 70/30 wiper fluid shortly as I'm out of boost juice. Its on an AEM progressive controller tapped into my MAP sensor. Its running 11.5:1 commanded and was pretty good on my last log when I hit the 186kpa. I think the 750cc is enough as my IATs are pretty low even on a 80* day, 98-115*F range and the Meth drops is a few degress during boost.
What is higher than pump gas boost? 15psi? Says I just hit 14.5psi via the boost gauge. The EFI system is Fitech ultimate LS (self tunes) to 26ish PSI or 250kpa. So even if I overboost it its still going to command the 11.5:1 and adjust fueling as needed even if the meth fails. The meth is separate and independent of the engine management system so it just adds alittle detonation protection and IAT temp drop for boost only. If I command richer AFR then its going to try to hit that all the time so Id rather keep it at the 11.5:1 unless you think that's too lean for 15psi?
On street tires I could see it being an issue in any kind of boost at all.
I agree, I think the sumimoto tires just aren't up to the task at the 275 size. They drive fine and will get good mileage before bald but just doesn't want to hook with boost. They are fine at most light/med throttles and can hold up at high speed 100+mph on the highway with my foot buried in it. It prob also doesn't help that I have 3.55 gears and boost but I'm not dropping gears anytime soon.
Did some calculations and the 275/40r18 at 3.55 gears and then plugged in the new DR 275/45r18s and gear calculator is showing my gearing is now more like a 3.29. They are like 1" taller compared to my tires right now so I think the DIA increase will help as well with traction since boosted cars like tall gears in the 2.70-3.08 range.
Also the 82-92 Firebirds are light in the *** end, no rear seats etc but it has a roll bar and the battery in the trunk... still think its light.
Got the tires off the car and put them and the new DRs in the truck. Going to see if I can get them mounted and balanced tmrw. The new tires are alittle bigger and taller it seems. Hope they hook!
I don’t have any pics of the DP but it’s not very straight. Coming off the turbo is a bend that twists into another bend to push it to the back of the Engine. Then 2 hard 90* going down and out the back. Straight into a 13” resonator (straight through perf core) and then into the 3” catback with dynomax ultra SS straight through perf core.
A wideband sensor is not instant, there is some lag. If you think that self learning stuff of the fitech is going to SYA during an over boost by learning the correct fuel amount, you're going to have an engine rebuild on your hands at some point. You SHOULD be looking for a feature of the Fitech that will kill the car or pull all timing during an overboost to save the motor and not rely on a learning feature.
A wideband sensor is not instant, there is some lag. If you think that self learning stuff of the fitech is going to SYA during an over boost by learning the correct fuel amount, you're going to have an engine rebuild on your hands at some point. You SHOULD be looking for a feature of the Fitech that will kill the car or pull all timing during an overboost to save the motor and not rely on a learning feature.
gotcha. I don’t think it does. I can program my innovate PSB1 to control a relay in case of a over lean issue but not a boost cut.
What if if I set timing at a certain kpa to go rock low to add like a timing retard above a certain boost level? Here is my timing table at the moment. Say I yank all the timing at 200kpa?
gotcha. I don’t think it does. I can program my innovate PSB1 to control a relay in case of a over lean issue but not a boost cut.
What if if I set timing at a certain kpa to go rock low to add like a timing retard above a certain boost level? Here is my timing table at the moment. Say I yank all the timing at 200kpa?
Some might say to use the output to apply or remove power to your boost solenoid, so that if all aspects of boost control are still functional, killing power to the solenoid should achieve a boost cut.
Some might say to use the output to apply or remove power to your boost solenoid, so that if all aspects of boost control are still functional, killing power to the solenoid should achieve a boost cut.
not running a boost solenoid and the pcm has no control
over boost.
do I have to worry about the spark cutting out and fuel still being injected?
Spark cut is safer than a fuel cut cause you can't guarantee that some contaminents or some small amount of fuel still get ignited in the chamber when the spark plugs ignites. No spark no boom.
05-19-2018, 08:27 PM
