Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Looking to hit about 900 rwhp

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Old 06-19-2018, 01:30 PM
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Default Looking to hit about 900 rwhp









For the sake of numbers I’m looking to hit around/close to 900 ish rwhp on my current build below are the list of mods we just sold off the D1SC and upgraded to the F1A 8rib front mount with a 4” pulley and 7.65 crank pulley. Should I stick with the 4” pulley or do I need to go with a 3.90 or 3.80?? Anyone run a similar set up or have a rough idea of what to expect? Everything listed is already here and we are installing now.

Boosted 383 stroker Aluminum Shortblock

Wiseco Forged pistons

H 1.0 beam rods w/ arp2000 rod bolts

Callis compstar forged 4340 crankshaft,

ARP main stud kit

PRC stg 2.5 heads

Brian Tooley custom blower cam 237/252 115lsa ICL 110, .660” rocker ratio w/ trunion upgrade

Snow Performance meth kit stg 4 dual nozzle

Procharger F1-A

Brute Speed Aster mount w/ 8rib kit

4.0 pulley

4” front mount 1300hp intercooler

G1Pro intake manifold

95mm Holley EFI throttle body

Walbro dual pump 450 LPH pump gas

Injector dynamics 750 injectors

Racetronix fuel rail / system monitor

Upgraded fuel lines 8an out / 6an return

Kooks long tube wrapped headers

Kooks green catalytic converters

True dual exhaust

Brute speed custom driveshaft

Hawks 8.8 custom fab rear end 33spline

3:73 gears

3400 YANK anti balloon power adder series

RPM STG 7 VII 4L60e upgraded 1/2gear ratio

SubFrame connector weld in

Adjustable chrome-moly torque arm

Adjustable LCA

Pan hard bar

KYB Adjustable gas shock/struts

315/30/18 Hoosier DR2

Last edited by Sundevils05; 06-20-2018 at 04:04 PM.
Old 06-19-2018, 01:36 PM
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You will need more injector if using E85.
Old 06-19-2018, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by svslow
You will need more injector if using E85.
correction: I’m running 91 pump gas with the dual nozzle water/meth kit

the injectors are from my previous setup with the D1SC was hoping I wouldn’t have to upgrade just yet I have NO IDEA why I didn’t order the ID1000. Dumb move on my part they cost the same as the 725’s

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Old 06-19-2018, 02:26 PM
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4L60e and worm clamps on the intercooler couplers?

Setting yourself up for a long road ahead.
Old 06-19-2018, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
4L60e and worm clamps on the intercooler couplers?

Setting yourself up for a long road ahead.
which clamps should be used, procharger sent the kit that way didn’t think twice about it? T-bolt clamps??
Old 06-19-2018, 02:50 PM
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Zip tie all vacuum lines, and T-bolt clamps on everything that will see boost. Procharger hopefully would know to only send worm gear stuff for the intake side of the charger.
Old 06-19-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by WSLN 6
Zip tie all vacuum lines, and T-bolt clamps on everything that will see boost. Procharger hopefully would know to only send worm gear stuff for the intake side of the charger.
thanks appreciate the heads up, should be a quick fix glad you guys pointed it out early enough.
Old 06-19-2018, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Sundevils05


which clamps should be used, procharger sent the kit that way didn’t think twice about it? T-bolt clamps??

Nothing wrong with good quality worm drive style clamps unless you're heading beyond 30psi
Old 06-19-2018, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Nothing wrong with good quality worm drive style clamps unless you're heading beyond 30psi
I should be within the 16-20psi range. Same thing Procharger said when I called them a while ago to double check/inquire about the clamps that came with the 4” front mount kit.
Old 06-19-2018, 07:53 PM
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Not saying they won’t hold, but I have seen them let go and tear up a nice hood liner. Just spreading the word!
Old 06-20-2018, 01:34 AM
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Might be hard on 91 through the auto. What’s the compression? I’d put the smallest pulley on it possible. Injectors are kinda iffy too.
Old 06-20-2018, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by WSLN 6
Not saying they won’t hold, but I have seen them let go and tear up a nice hood liner. Just spreading the word!
Bad build and workmanship can apply to any clamps.

I've seen idiots squash stainless steel tubing from overtightening t-bolt clamps. You can just get idiots everywhere that can **** things up.

But for low boost stuff there is simply no need for t-bolt clamps. And some t-bolts are pure ***** to start with.

Once into larger diameter like the 4" a t-bolt can become more appropriate simply due to the forces involved but as long as pipe prep is good with a decent lip/bead, a good worm drive will still be fine ( I use Breeze constant torque clamps )
Old 06-20-2018, 06:15 AM
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I had a worm clamp on my throttle body. When it blew off, it smashed into my radiator putting a big dent in it, and shoved my meth nozzle into the piping.
Old 06-20-2018, 06:34 AM
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91 octane might be a stretch, also the 60E might not be happy. I favor T bolt clamps,
have had the worm style slip. Most important is a lip of some sort around each pipe
so it cant pull out. I wish my garage floor (or my kitchen, lol) was as clean as your garage.
Old 06-20-2018, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
I had a worm clamp on my throttle body. When it blew off, it smashed into my radiator putting a big dent in it, and shoved my meth nozzle into the piping.
And I've seen guys with t-bolt clamps blow their pipes off too.

Old 06-20-2018, 08:31 AM
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Nice looking set up! Don’t worry about everyone’s opinions... if the 60 was built right it will live to anything you give it... the sonnax drum is the key to them living..
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:37 AM
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Nice shop and setup! Don’t see many 383 or procharger setups anymore. Everyone is moving towards turbos it seems. I’m looking forward to the results!
Old 06-20-2018, 09:06 AM
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I would recommend at least the stage 25 100% billet 60e at that power level.

or a junkyard 80e with a shift kit
Old 06-20-2018, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Nice shop and setup! Don’t see many 383 or procharger setups anymore. Everyone is moving towards turbos it seems. I’m looking forward to the results!
yessir very true, will see how it goes, turbo set-ups definitely cost effective but we threw some stuff together that was cost efficient for me and what was in hand as well. Should have dyno numbers middle of next week I’ll cross my fingers and post the graphs.

A lot of people still hate on the 4l60e but if it’s built right, kept cool it will definitely withstand. RPM has has gotten a few 4l60e into consistent high 8 low 9s. I’m not too worried about it. I’ve added a few precautions such as ATI Flexplate and larger tanny cooler with a deep aluminum pan & proper gauge set up to monitor heat it should do great with the upgraded 1: 2 gear ratios.
Old 06-20-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
I would recommend at least the stage 25 100% billet 60e at that power level.

or a junkyard 80e with a shift kit
tranny is billet and hardened where it needs to be, it’s an RPM build...the junkyard 80e w/ shift kit is on standby but we should be ok haha. I’ll be on the lookout for that stage 25 though lol

Last edited by Sundevils05; 06-20-2018 at 09:42 AM.


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