Semi Sloppy Reg Cab 1500 Stepside Turbo Build
#84
Thanks boys, I got the trans tube bent with some heat. I ended up packing it full of play sand to act as a mandrel but it didn't seem to help much. Got it bent just enough to poke up next to the #8 plug wire. Don't let perfect get in the way of good enough!!!
Gonna try my hand at the 80E segment swap and 3 bar map conversion now
Gonna try my hand at the 80E segment swap and 3 bar map conversion now
#85
Goddamnit I love the internet sometimes. Between this forum, HPTuners forum, youtube and Performance trucks I had all the files necessary to 80E segment swap and 3bar OS swap my tune in about 10 minutes.
In case anyone needs it I've attached the 80E file I used to segment swap my tune (OS 12212156). I'm also going to post up the links that a noob like me found helpful.
Cheers
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tuners-530880/
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...wapper-utility
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-537760/page2/
In case anyone needs it I've attached the 80E file I used to segment swap my tune (OS 12212156). I'm also going to post up the links that a noob like me found helpful.
Cheers
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tuners-530880/
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...wapper-utility
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-537760/page2/
#87
shitload of work done today - downpipe and rest of exhaust finished and connected to stock catback (lol), wastegate reassembled, etc. The shifter linkage is fully hooked up but when you pull the column shifter down all the way it only goes to 2nd; I assume the PRNDL switch needs adjusting/rotation to get full range of motion. Also need to finish the 4L80E wiring work, but that should only take an hour or so.
With the coils unplugged she cranked over easily so the cam swap was successful. I spent the rest of the evening copying over the values from the Sloppy Dontbsme tune, gonna flash it tomorrow and try to fire it up. Right now none of the charge piping is hooked up as I want to see how it runs NA and work out any bugs from the new trans and Ford axle before we get crazy
Taking bets on predictions for problems:
-Unplugged IAT/MAF means no IAT signal to PCM so I'm sure that will freak out the PCM
(I may steal the old IAT out of my 2000 C5 air bridge and try to see if I can integrate it into the intake mani)
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...n-truck-intake
-Power steering is weeping, may have nudged an old crusty line, will probably **** all over the floor
-I probably screwed up some fuel/injector settings in the tune that may cause it to run like ****
With the coils unplugged she cranked over easily so the cam swap was successful. I spent the rest of the evening copying over the values from the Sloppy Dontbsme tune, gonna flash it tomorrow and try to fire it up. Right now none of the charge piping is hooked up as I want to see how it runs NA and work out any bugs from the new trans and Ford axle before we get crazy
Taking bets on predictions for problems:
-Unplugged IAT/MAF means no IAT signal to PCM so I'm sure that will freak out the PCM
(I may steal the old IAT out of my 2000 C5 air bridge and try to see if I can integrate it into the intake mani)
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...n-truck-intake
-Power steering is weeping, may have nudged an old crusty line, will probably **** all over the floor
-I probably screwed up some fuel/injector settings in the tune that may cause it to run like ****
#88
****, I think I may have bricked my PCM. I was moving some pins around on the PCM plugs for the 80E swap and something sparked, I might have brushed the connector against something (no clue how). Now HPTuners won't connect, getting the "controller unlocker timed out" message, and when you turn the key to Run the fuel pump doesn't even prime. Got another 0411 PCM on the way, it sucks that I'll have to license that one too. Live and learn...any way I can check if the current one really is bricked?
#90
Hooked up the new 0411 I found locally - no change. Still cranks but no start. Definitely don't hear the fuel pump priming. At this point I'm thinking it's either a security issue (Pass Key?) or PRNDL switch problem since there is no "square" around 'P' when ignition is on, so it may not think it's in park.
#91
Blown 20A fuse for the PCM will do it!! Trucks started immediately but runs like ****, I think the tune is off. I just copied the majority of the Dontbsme tune but my injector info was 94.6 lb/hr as I read somewhere on the internet (I know, I know) along with differing Offset vs Volts vs Vac setting. I will copy over that table from the Dontbsme and change the injector data to 80 lb/hr across the board and see if that helps. The truck was running pig rich (10.0 flat AFR on WB) at idle and missing really badly.
#93
Running into some trans issues, truck won't move in any gear.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...any-gears.html
Got a new flexplate/spacer I need to install, and need to verify converter is seated fully. I am hoping I didn't damage the pump.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...any-gears.html
Got a new flexplate/spacer I need to install, and need to verify converter is seated fully. I am hoping I didn't damage the pump.
#94
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
They should have told you if the conv. had the longer 60E style snout, or the 80E short
style which it sounds like you have, since there was a gap. The conv was running unsupported
by not reg. into the crank, which could have hurt the pump gears. How ever, since the car wouldnt
move, maybe to much pull out and the gears were not engaged. The new spacer/FP will cure
your spacing problem. Just make sure you have the conv. seated before installing, aprx 1" from
face of trans to the conv. pads. Ck to make sure the pump bushing is still in place also.
style which it sounds like you have, since there was a gap. The conv was running unsupported
by not reg. into the crank, which could have hurt the pump gears. How ever, since the car wouldnt
move, maybe to much pull out and the gears were not engaged. The new spacer/FP will cure
your spacing problem. Just make sure you have the conv. seated before installing, aprx 1" from
face of trans to the conv. pads. Ck to make sure the pump bushing is still in place also.
#95
They should have told you if the conv. had the longer 60E style snout, or the 80E short
style which it sounds like you have, since there was a gap. The conv was running unsupported
by not reg. into the crank, which could have hurt the pump gears. How ever, since the car wouldnt
move, maybe to much pull out and the gears were not engaged. The new spacer/FP will cure
your spacing problem. Just make sure you have the conv. seated before installing, aprx 1" from
face of trans to the conv. pads. Ck to make sure the pump bushing is still in place also.
style which it sounds like you have, since there was a gap. The conv was running unsupported
by not reg. into the crank, which could have hurt the pump gears. How ever, since the car wouldnt
move, maybe to much pull out and the gears were not engaged. The new spacer/FP will cure
your spacing problem. Just make sure you have the conv. seated before installing, aprx 1" from
face of trans to the conv. pads. Ck to make sure the pump bushing is still in place also.
Thanks for your input, I will see how the pump looks.
#96
The plot thickens. No damage to pump, no scratches that can even catch a finger nail. The converter snout looked fine and I measured the gap between bellhousing flange and converter pads at just over 1".
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Scratching my head here. Was it just low on fluid? If so, why did the fluid level not go down on the dipstick with the engine running?
The only other thing I can think of is that I was running a dished flywheel with no spacer, which Jake's Performance told me would work. I will be installing a flat flexplate with spacer.
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Scratching my head here. Was it just low on fluid? If so, why did the fluid level not go down on the dipstick with the engine running?
The only other thing I can think of is that I was running a dished flywheel with no spacer, which Jake's Performance told me would work. I will be installing a flat flexplate with spacer.
#99
Transmission in, filled up with 4 quarts. Started it up, Continued to add fluid. At no time did any fluid come out the cooler pressure port so I still have no pressure. To make sure I had enough fluid I kept adding oil until it started to dribble out the breather up at the bellhousing, meaning the case was full. I pulled the pan and checked the filter (which was new), nothing unusual, no clogs or debris. At this point I'm stumped.
Is there anything electrical that might cause the pump to bypass internally? Solenoids?
Is there anything electrical that might cause the pump to bypass internally? Solenoids?