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Semi Sloppy Reg Cab 1500 Stepside Turbo Build

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Old 04-17-2019, 11:23 AM
  #81  
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i use one of those cheap flexible ones, but you have to adjust them so they read correctly

if its possible at all to use an OEM type one...do that
Old 04-17-2019, 11:51 AM
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You can heat them and bend them small amounts, I have done some w/o heat.
They make a couple diff ones for swaps, one comes up in the trad. way, another
goes to the outside of the block.
Old 04-17-2019, 04:43 PM
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The 02 2500 and 3500 gas trucks used the 4l80e. Should be 12563918

EDIT, that is the engine dipstick tube. But should be able to find the trans tube as well.
Old 04-17-2019, 07:20 PM
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Thanks boys, I got the trans tube bent with some heat. I ended up packing it full of play sand to act as a mandrel but it didn't seem to help much. Got it bent just enough to poke up next to the #8 plug wire. Don't let perfect get in the way of good enough!!!

Gonna try my hand at the 80E segment swap and 3 bar map conversion now
Old 04-17-2019, 07:43 PM
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Goddamnit I love the internet sometimes. Between this forum, HPTuners forum, youtube and Performance trucks I had all the files necessary to 80E segment swap and 3bar OS swap my tune in about 10 minutes.

In case anyone needs it I've attached the 80E file I used to segment swap my tune (OS 12212156). I'm also going to post up the links that a noob like me found helpful.

Cheers

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tuners-530880/

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...wapper-utility

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-537760/page2/
Attached Files
File Type: hpt
Old 04-17-2019, 10:57 PM
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yeah that OS is pretty much the best of the bunch for p01 computers
Old 04-19-2019, 10:57 PM
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shitload of work done today - downpipe and rest of exhaust finished and connected to stock catback (lol), wastegate reassembled, etc. The shifter linkage is fully hooked up but when you pull the column shifter down all the way it only goes to 2nd; I assume the PRNDL switch needs adjusting/rotation to get full range of motion. Also need to finish the 4L80E wiring work, but that should only take an hour or so.

With the coils unplugged she cranked over easily so the cam swap was successful. I spent the rest of the evening copying over the values from the Sloppy Dontbsme tune, gonna flash it tomorrow and try to fire it up. Right now none of the charge piping is hooked up as I want to see how it runs NA and work out any bugs from the new trans and Ford axle before we get crazy

Taking bets on predictions for problems:
-Unplugged IAT/MAF means no IAT signal to PCM so I'm sure that will freak out the PCM
(I may steal the old IAT out of my 2000 C5 air bridge and try to see if I can integrate it into the intake mani)
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...n-truck-intake
-Power steering is weeping, may have nudged an old crusty line, will probably **** all over the floor
-I probably screwed up some fuel/injector settings in the tune that may cause it to run like ****
Old 04-20-2019, 01:47 PM
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****, I think I may have bricked my PCM. I was moving some pins around on the PCM plugs for the 80E swap and something sparked, I might have brushed the connector against something (no clue how). Now HPTuners won't connect, getting the "controller unlocker timed out" message, and when you turn the key to Run the fuel pump doesn't even prime. Got another 0411 PCM on the way, it sucks that I'll have to license that one too. Live and learn...any way I can check if the current one really is bricked?
Old 04-20-2019, 02:44 PM
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I think I have a 411 laying around somewhere if you need it.
Old 04-20-2019, 05:28 PM
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Hooked up the new 0411 I found locally - no change. Still cranks but no start. Definitely don't hear the fuel pump priming. At this point I'm thinking it's either a security issue (Pass Key?) or PRNDL switch problem since there is no "square" around 'P' when ignition is on, so it may not think it's in park.
Old 04-21-2019, 08:31 PM
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Blown 20A fuse for the PCM will do it!! Trucks started immediately but runs like ****, I think the tune is off. I just copied the majority of the Dontbsme tune but my injector info was 94.6 lb/hr as I read somewhere on the internet (I know, I know) along with differing Offset vs Volts vs Vac setting. I will copy over that table from the Dontbsme and change the injector data to 80 lb/hr across the board and see if that helps. The truck was running pig rich (10.0 flat AFR on WB) at idle and missing really badly.
Old 04-21-2019, 08:43 PM
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Truck still won't idle worth a ****, sounds like it's missing on a couple cylinder (probably because it's so rich). Tune and log posted. Thanks in advance for any help!
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
First start.hpl (38.0 KB, 23 views)
File Type: hpt
Stepslide Turbo 80E 3bar.hpt (260.2 KB, 19 views)
Old 05-02-2019, 03:48 PM
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Running into some trans issues, truck won't move in any gear.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...any-gears.html

Got a new flexplate/spacer I need to install, and need to verify converter is seated fully. I am hoping I didn't damage the pump.
Old 05-03-2019, 06:08 AM
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They should have told you if the conv. had the longer 60E style snout, or the 80E short
style which it sounds like you have, since there was a gap. The conv was running unsupported
by not reg. into the crank, which could have hurt the pump gears. How ever, since the car wouldnt
move, maybe to much pull out and the gears were not engaged. The new spacer/FP will cure
your spacing problem. Just make sure you have the conv. seated before installing, aprx 1" from
face of trans to the conv. pads. Ck to make sure the pump bushing is still in place also.
Old 05-06-2019, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by forcd ind
They should have told you if the conv. had the longer 60E style snout, or the 80E short
style which it sounds like you have, since there was a gap. The conv was running unsupported
by not reg. into the crank, which could have hurt the pump gears. How ever, since the car wouldnt
move, maybe to much pull out and the gears were not engaged. The new spacer/FP will cure
your spacing problem. Just make sure you have the conv. seated before installing, aprx 1" from
face of trans to the conv. pads. Ck to make sure the pump bushing is still in place also.
That's the frustrating part, I bought a brand new converter and was told it would work with all the stock components, plug and play. Now I'm having to pull stuff apart again and install spacers and enlarge flexplate holes to make it fit.

Thanks for your input, I will see how the pump looks.
Old 05-10-2019, 07:30 AM
  #96  
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The plot thickens. No damage to pump, no scratches that can even catch a finger nail. The converter snout looked fine and I measured the gap between bellhousing flange and converter pads at just over 1".

Attachment 715148

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Attachment 715156

Scratching my head here. Was it just low on fluid? If so, why did the fluid level not go down on the dipstick with the engine running?

The only other thing I can think of is that I was running a dished flywheel with no spacer, which Jake's Performance told me would work. I will be installing a flat flexplate with spacer.
Old 05-15-2019, 09:20 AM
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im running the flexplate that has an off set and that **** ring adapter thing for the converter. all depends on your flexplate
Old 05-17-2019, 12:55 PM
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Pump cleaned and reassembled, converter filled with 4 quarts and installed, depth checked at over an inch, fluid dribbling out cooler pressure port, flexplate with spacer installed.





Last edited by LQ4-E39; 05-17-2019 at 01:06 PM.
Old 05-20-2019, 05:57 PM
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Transmission in, filled up with 4 quarts. Started it up, Continued to add fluid. At no time did any fluid come out the cooler pressure port so I still have no pressure. To make sure I had enough fluid I kept adding oil until it started to dribble out the breather up at the bellhousing, meaning the case was full. I pulled the pan and checked the filter (which was new), nothing unusual, no clogs or debris. At this point I'm stumped.




Is there anything electrical that might cause the pump to bypass internally? Solenoids?
Old 05-21-2019, 08:27 AM
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While the pan is off, put the dip stick in, full mark should be aprx 1/16 to 1/8" above the pan rail.
Obs something is wrong, did you change any valves in the pump.


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