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nah but you can be bleeding pressure off internal. if you had pressure and everything else was fucked you'd still have a slam in to first and then binding as reverse came in
i've been right here before, norb---and this is just my opinion
spend the money on a known running 80e and move on. you cant stall a project this long and finish in time to brap while the weather is good.
there's some **** that easier solved with hindsight
You know Doug i was thinking about that this morning. I may just yank it again and drop it off at a local performance builder and pay to make the headache go away, especially since literally everything else on the truck is done. The other option is to pick up another craiglist 80E but I have no guarantee those are good either. Option 3 is a junkyard unit which is more reputable but $$$
It's just killing me not knowing if it's something super simple that I can fix myself, and save myself the labor of pulling this thing out yet again.
right and if it's something easy to fix you can have that unit as a back up. i try not to hit every problem with my wallet, but sometimes you just gotta pay to move to the next chapter.
having it built or sourcing another JY pull out is a good next step.
I'm kind of fighting that battle now, the 80E I built went together good, but locks up trying
to go for/back-I pulled it apart and cant see anything, I thought the gasket pattern looked
a little weak, so I stoned the case body. When I orig pulled it apart to rebuild it, found a lot
of damage, direct drum, middle shaft, bushings comp. wiped out. I replaced everything with
correct parts, but might swap the whole gear train out of another. I have 3 other units to pick
from, I may just start over on another build, lol. I'm no trans builder, but have always done
my own-agreed its nice to just drop it off and pick it up when ready.
Set a new record last night - from a running vehicle to tranny sitting on the floor in 2 hours. Dropping it off at a local performance trans shop to be gone through next week.
Nice build man, I've been following along and just finished adding a turbo to my 05 Silverado. I'll be keeping an eye on your 80e swap, as I'm sure I'll have to do mine sooner than later!
Nice build man, I've been following along and just finished adding a turbo to my 05 Silverado. I'll be keeping an eye on your 80e swap, as I'm sure I'll have to do mine sooner than later!
Sounds sweet with that SS2, thanks for the motivation! Be sure to post up some burnouts!
Actually it's a Summit Stage I truck cam (I lied to myself that I would keep the truck n/a). I would post up some burnouts, but I still have the 60e, and G80 LOL I'm sure they'd explode as soon as I tried a burnout!! Keep up the work, I like following along.
Update – it runs and drives! Currently NA with the charge piping off to shake it down, it’s a dog since I have the turbo timing (11-12 degrees) in it right now but I’m just happy it moves under its own power.
Picked up the trans from the shop with the Rav4 2500HD
Immediately loaded it up with junk to take to the scrap yard
Turns out one of the valve body gaskets had shifted when I installed the HD2 kit and it was blocking some passages. The gasket had some impressions where check ***** had obviously pushing into the gasket material rather than the hole in the gasket, resulting in massive internal leakage. The shop confirmed that the pump looked fine and clutches looked good. Although it wasn’t fun to pull this thing out a couple times, I think it was worth it to have a pro go through this $200 80E and give it a clean bill of health.
Been driving this thing to work getting miles on it, now that I've made some very rough adjustments to the VE table and corrected the speedo for the tiny rear tires, it drives really nicely if not a bit rich around town. No boost for now, charge piping is still off it. EFI source 3bar MAP works great so far, easy to install.
Left to do:
Figure out how to connect my AEM UEGO wideband to my HPTuners Standard so I can log and tune VE]
Wire up a Y from the single O2 sensor to both O2 plugs so I have narrowband control in closed loop
Vent valve covers or install catch can
Have my welder finish up my charge piping for me
Relocate IAT, unplug MAF sensor
Adjust shift linkage, currently it doesn't drop down into 1st. I reused the 60E shift cable and bracket/lever arm, I wonder if I need to install one from the 80E? It seems like the shifter doesn't have enough throw length to reach between Park and 1st.
I used a serial cable adapter to hook into my USB on my laptop to log AFR error per the video below:
I've had mine up to 9#'s so far and it's doing great w/ probably close to 500 miles on it so far. I have both O2's in my crossover, but I have them turned off now so I can tune my VE table.
I used a serial cable adapter to hook into my USB on my laptop to log AFR error per the video below:
I've had mine up to 9#'s so far and it's doing great w/ probably close to 500 miles on it so far. I have both O2's in my crossover, but I have them turned off now so I can tune my VE table.
Been driving this thing to work getting miles on it, now that I've made some very rough adjustments to the VE table and corrected the speedo for the tiny rear tires, it drives really nicely if not a bit rich around town. No boost for now, charge piping is still off it. EFI source 3bar MAP works great so far, easy to install.
Left to do:
Figure out how to connect my AEM UEGO wideband to my HPTuners Standard so I can log and tune VE]
Wire up a Y from the single O2 sensor to both O2 plugs so I have narrowband control in closed loop
Vent valve covers or install catch can
Have my welder finish up my charge piping for me
Relocate IAT, unplug MAF sensor
Adjust shift linkage, currently it doesn't drop down into 1st. I reused the 60E shift cable and bracket/lever arm, I wonder if I need to install one from the 80E? It seems like the shifter doesn't have enough throw length to reach between Park and 1st.
You mentioned in post 103 that everything else on the truck was done.
05-22-2019, 04:26 PM
