LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

dlandsvZ28

If I had to do it all over again I would go this route. In Texas with a daily driver you got to have AC. IMO the fbody AC doesn't work so well with either turbos or Prochargers. Some will claim no effect while others will disagree. It depends on how many days you drive when temps are over 100 degrees. It's the 100 degree threshold when the ac system doesn't work so well.

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...nacharger-kit/

Cruising with Sally would be a blast. Check out the Sally videos.

007FJ

iTrader: (28)

maroonls1z

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I had a buddy with a P1SC on his 00 Camaro and had issues keeping his coolant temps under control.
Switched to turbo and stood up his radiator and no problems.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

That is completely backwards. And the fact he stood up his radiator makes the back to back invalid. A blower doesn't have an entire hot side under the hood or an air compressor that uses hot exhaust gases sitting behind the radiator. I would guess your friend used the stock fan shroud from ATI and their fan/fans which are terrible and that's why he had issues.

dlandsvZ28

The owner of Sally states the rwhp in the video

You have not heard of them perhaps because of the clearance issues at the cowl, so few fbodies owners have installed them. Hawks appears to have designed a modification that works with the wipers and doesn't look like a hack job at the cowl area.

Am tempted to install one on my 12 Grand Sport vette but have promised myself never ever again will I start modding a car like I have with my Procharged 98 Camaro. So one is a nice cruiser, the other likes to go fast. But neither are daily drivers and both require deep pockets. When you estimate cost - double it and you will be actually closer to true cost.

Just speculation with no statistics but appears the Corvette crowd prefers the Magnuson and Procharger whereas the fbody crowd prefers turbo's. There are pros and cons for each system.

dlandsvZ28

Agree.

It takes a very good fabricator to stand the radiator up and still have room for the AC condenser and FMIC. The ac and condenser was probably removed which in most cases solves overheating.

Not saying it can't be done but I don't have the resources to pay someone to do it the right and safe way.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

dlandsvZ28

The P1 and early version D1's had dual air to air 3 1/2 inch intercoolers - one on each side. Later Procharger came out with larger dual intercoolers - 4 1/2 inches I recall.

My 2005 version of the D1 4th gen fbody kit came with the 3 1/2 intercoolers. One tuner refused to continue with the tune because my IAT's were so high with the twins.

IMO the intercoolers didn't get a lot or air flow either because they laid horizontal attached to the frame compared to FMIC kit's that mount vertically in the front bumper cover. The front surface area of the typical fbody fmic is probably at least a third larger also than twin 3 1/2" intercoolers.

To the OP - if you find a kit with 3 1/2 intercoolers - since you are in Texas heat move on unless it is an extremely good deal.

dlandsvZ28

You might want to read this this thread.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...h-hard-do.html

maroonls1z

007FJ

iTrader: (28)

If you go Procharger...Go D1SC preferably the latest version and 4.5 Twins. Do not go 3.5s or P1. You'll be fine at your power goals. Mine was over 750 like clockwork with Twins but the IATs were sucking at that much pressure even with Alky Control as insurance and chemical cooling. Back that down for your bottom end and goals and you have a safe combo at around 8#s to 10#s. The Twins can manage that. I should have added two small fans to my Twins and tested some more.


A good pump in the tank with a Hot Wire kit and a set of Deka 80's (Budget reasons) but ID850s are another option.

Another thing to consider is if you like a loud car or not. A Turbo Car is much quieter.

007FJ

iTrader: (28)

Jon at Huron or Bob at Brute are just straight up good people.

If you want to look at the T4 Kit partially installed, Hop on the Busa or whatever and you are welcome to come by and eye ball mine. I didn't jump from the F1C due to performance reasons as it is more likely the fact that I am nuts and take apart good running stuff for weak *** justification.

ls1charged

iTrader: (8)

I daily the hurondpeed v3 ac kit in Florida.... The kit is very solid so long as you look out for a few things during install i.e. brake lines to close to headers and the downpipe melting the steering rack boot have been the major issues.... I'm on a sbe 5.3 and make ~550 whp on 10psi.... It's extremely streetable

Snake_Skinner

iTrader: (12)

What do you personally not like about your 98 procharged camaro? Just the simple fact the ac doesnt work so well on 100+ days? and what fan setup are you running on your procharged camaro?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I think its a general comment. between all the extra piping, intercooler(s), and a compressor generating heat; the A/C will not work as good as stock. That said I have no issues with the A/C in FL weather. Derale 16925 pusher fans are fantastic. It's what Huron recommends with their kit as well.

dlandsvZ28

The Harrop from Australia is only 9mm taller than the TVS2300 - post # 7in this link below. Hawks has confirmed their cowl modification for the fbody has enough clearance.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...h-hard-do.html

Don't have any info on Magnuson for their 2650 and its dimensions. However since Hawks is a vendor you might want to contact them.

dlandsvZ28

My comment to the OP about a third option is strictly my opinion based on where I live and what the temps are here in KS during June, July, and August. It's not a daily driver and I am not going to drive it without air when temps are north of 90.

My previous setup was custom aluminum charge pipe to a Brute Speed FMIC (OCX I recall when I got it - 07) along with a Spal Extreme 16 inch puller and Spal 9 inch puller on a custom fan shroud. In addition I installed two 12 inch pusher fans on the face of the ac condenser. With that setup I could drive pretty anytime without cooling issues when temps were south of 90 degrees. But over that with heat radiating off of city streets far north of 90 it would overheat. A test with a $600 BeCool radiator didn't help.

Back in the day (06-07) I was probably one of the first to challenge the theory that one Procharger fan would keep the engine from overheating and received a lot of flack for it. Those who tried it called it the 'dlandsv' mod. Opinions change however, and now most agree a second fan helps.

I was also one of the first to install pusher fans on the ac condenser. Again received a lot of flack with naysayers predicting it wouldn't help. Trust in OK tried it and it helped with his overheating as well. He had twin 4.5s intercoolers making rwhp north of 700. It gets hot in OK, KS, and Texas. However, this setup still wasn't enough when temps get to close or over 100 degrees.

So last summer I fabricated a mounting system to move the ac condenser off of the face of the radiator placing it in front of the stock windshield washer tank along with two Spal pusher fans and behind a huge Mishimoto intercooler.

The ac lines had to be lengthed to reach the condenser. The condenser is thicker, taller, and wider than the stock condenser with at least 20 percent more surface area. The pusher fans because of their placement act as pullers for the fmic.

Since the Spal Extreme puller (06 version - one hour at a time) isn't for normal daily driving, I have replaced it with the Spal 16 inch puller that can be used long term along a with Spal 9 inch puller on Nasty's custom aluminum shroud. This shroud is hands down much better for sealing than the ATI shroud.

Since the space allocated for the condenser in front of the radiator is empty I installed a stacked Derale transmission intercooler in that space. The radiator now when parked or moving gets a huge straight shot of air because there is no restriction due to the ac condenser in the original pathway. This solved my cooling issues once and all. BTW - the radiator is a new stock A4 radiator (no big 4 inch BeCool needed). I did not piggyback the Derale off of the radiator. Six AN stainless braided lines run back to the Performabuilt level III 4l60e and Yank PY3450 torque converter.

As for the AC - testing last summer I was getting as low as 40 degrees from the drive side vent. I never could get the car to overheat or have to pull over, turn the ac off or park the car because I couldn't tolerate the interior cabin temps.

But I seem to never be satisfied, so I fabricated new brackets to mount the ac condenser and fmic. See pics below. These are steel but will replace with T61 aluminum brackets this winter very similar to the brackets ATI has for their FMIC kit. Simple in design and very light compared to the overhead bracket that is attached now .


Will there be naysayers about my setup - no doubt. Do I care? No.

It works for me and that is all that matters.

maroonls1z