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You guys welding your own SS V-Band flanges. How do you keep from warping? I welded up some last year and they warped pretty badly. I have a Tig Welder but I don't have more that about 5 'Q' bottles of Argon to my experience in TIG welding. Specifically, I'm welding stainless 3.0" v-bands to schedule 40 mild steel and to stock LS truck manifolds. I read several articles and tried to be judicious in tacking one side ,then the other, then the third side, and finally the forth. Letting It cool between each. But after that, I just welded around the perimeter. On the first one, I welded around the outside. It warped noticeably. So I thought I'd try welding the next one on the inside. More warpage. Got any tips (other than to take it to a pro :) ) ? Thanks, |
After lightly tacking the flange in place, I typically clamp the two flanges together with the v-band clamp. Then you want to use just enough heat to wet the metal and don't move the torch too slowly. What filler rod are you using and what diameter rod and tungsten? |
Yep, i welded the pair clamped, and did about a 1/4 of the total weld at a time and let them cool. Seem to seal fine. |
I found them easier to do with my MIG machine. It's just a 120 volt MIG with 309 wire and helium mix for gas. I have a TIG machine but with the big variance in thickness it was just easier with the MIG. That includes welding up the stock manifolds. Not the best picture but you get the idea. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...94d3e1cb0b.jpg |
Clamp em and do a little at a time (inch or so). |
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I'm using Blue Demon 1/16th" and 3/32" 309L rods. I've tried both. On the tungstens, I'm using a variety of diameters, both pure tungstens and some lanthanated. I'm using gas lens with several different cup sizes in an effort to achieve better welds/less warpage, but it's been elusive. I know (well , found out ) that the larger rods can over cool the pool so I've gone back to just using the 1/16th rods.
Originally Posted by R_trim 93GT
(Post 20007732)
After lightly tacking the flange in place, I typically clamp the two flanges together with the v-band clamp. Then you want to use just enough heat to wet the metal and don't move the torch too slowly. What filler rod are you using and what diameter rod and tungsten? |
Ive been tigging for about 15 years. I only use two tungstens. Red for steel, SS, high dollar stuff like Monel, Iconel etc and green for aluminum. |
Thanks for the tips!
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
(Post 20007761)
Ive been tigging for about 15 years. I only use two tungstens. Red for steel, SS, high dollar stuff like Monel, Iconel etc and green for aluminum. |
tack, preheat to 300F, 1/16 thor with a needle point, 309L .045 rod. it's counter intuitive at first, but use more amps and move faster and it'll pull less sometimes it'll pull no matter what. draw file and block it flat. |
Originally Posted by mightyquickz28
(Post 20007759)
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I'm using Blue Demon 1/16th" and 3/32" 309L rods. I've tried both. On the tungstens, I'm using a variety of diameters, both pure tungstens and some lanthanated. I'm using gas lens with several different cup sizes in an effort to achieve better welds/less warpage, but it's been elusive. I know (well , found out ) that the larger rods can over cool the pool so I've gone back to just using the 1/16th rods. |
Originally Posted by truckdoug
(Post 20007777)
tack, preheat to 300F, 1/16 thor with a needle point, 309L .045 rod. it's counter intuitive at first, but use more amps and move faster and it'll pull less sometimes it'll pull no matter what. draw file and block it flat. |
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
(Post 20007761)
Ive been tigging for about 15 years. I only use two tungstens. Red for steel, SS, high dollar stuff like Monel, Iconel etc and green for aluminum. |
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
(Post 20007761)
Ive been tigging for about 15 years. I only use two tungstens. Red for steel, SS, high dollar stuff like Monel, Iconel etc and green for aluminum. |
Thanks for all the great tips guys! |
Originally Posted by squarles67
(Post 20007743)
I found them easier to do with my MIG machine. It's just a 120 volt MIG with 309 wire and helium mix for gas. I have a TIG machine but with the big variance in thickness it was just easier with the MIG. That includes welding up the stock manifolds. Not the best picture but you get the idea. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...94d3e1cb0b.jpg |
Originally Posted by TrendSetter
(Post 20007805)
this is a pretty old school technique. it does work, but you should really try some of the newer mix tungstens like the light blue ones, you might really like them. I try every new fancy blend that comes out. After about 15 mins of welding, it doesn't seem much different than anything else. I feel like people get hung up on tungsten blends and forget the basics, arc length, tungsten size & shape, and travel speed vs amps. but every guy that touched a torch is gonna have his own opinions and preferences |
Originally Posted by truckdoug
(Post 20007858)
I try every new fancy blend that comes out. After about 15 mins of welding, it doesn't seem much different than anything else. I feel like people get hung up on tungsten blends and forget the basics, arc length, tungsten size & shape, and travel speed vs amps. but every guy that touched a torch is gonna have his own opinions and preferences |
Hmm may try that. I will have to do some research. When I welded for a living I never had to do aluminum. So I'm still learning it. |
if you have to do a lot of thick ally, probably invest in a push-pull mig set up. real time saver https://i.ibb.co/F38vVHY/MVIMG-20181128-163859.jpg |
Originally Posted by truckdoug
(Post 20008631)
if you have to do a lot of thick ally, probably invest in a push-pull mig set up. real time saver https://i.ibb.co/F38vVHY/MVIMG-20181128-163859.jpg But it back to the topic these guys have gave some good tips. Clamp two flanges together whenever you can. Buy flanges with a longer pipe section on it if possible. Like truckdoug said sometimes you have to run more amps to you can have a faster travel speed. It is counterintuitive like he said but it allows you to get on and off of it quick. When welding ss purge gas (which you need to be using with ss) will also give some cooling effect. Mild steel and aluminum don’t need to be purged but ss does even when welding to mild steel. I did some 3.5” v band down pipes the other day for a guy, he didn’t have any extra flanges to clamp to nor did he give me a clamp like I asked. Taped them up purged them welded at about 60/70amps and they turned out very flat when done to my surprise. The clamping surface was maybe an inch from the weld joint. |
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