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I was always under the impression that the angle of the upper arms on the G-body didn't quite match up with the Fox rear rear axle upper ears. Is that not the case?
By the looks of it you upper boxes didn't change the angle of the upper link.
Andrew
That was my thought too. This guy used a Crown Vic rear I believe because he said the upper mounts on the rear were closer to the G-Body:
This is way too fancy! Looking forward to the rest of the build up. I always enjoy your relaxed style of building and think you do a nice job on your videos. Keep putting up pics of your progress, I'm ***** deep into putting an 8.8 into the rear of my '02 Silverado RCSB right now. Way easier since it's leaf sprung, but has challenges of its own
I think I have a disc/disc por. valve laying around you could have, one of those brass ones,
came in a kit and I had to switch to disc/drum.
You got mad skills.
The second pic looks like the factory ran out of shielding gas and continued to weld
every GM A/G body I've owned over the years has atrocious welds on the frame. I've been on forums with GM execs who were like yeah, fisher just had crap QC thats why they were never allowed to build truck frames and bodies. one even told me my '86 cutlass front end would be off square by 7/8 to an inch...I measured and sure as **** he was right.
Originally Posted by jimmyg
Are you planning on notching the frame at all? On my cutlass , widest tire i can fit is a 275/40/17 (without a notch)
Not at this time. I use a 275/60 on the street and a 28x9.5 slick at the track. Might have to roll the lip a tiny bit but hopefully leave the chassis mostly stock (except for fixing the terrible factory fit and finish)
I am curious about how you guys are caging these cars. I'd love for my back bars to land on top of the rear axle upper spring perch to beef that area up, but it looks like I'd lose my rear seat that way
Also i'm pretty sure the rear springs have been replaced with some lift springs since it sits so high. I'm having trouble finding lowering springs with less than 150lbs rate I want....what are you guys doing for springs?
every GM A/G body I've owned over the years has atrocious welds on the frame. I've been on forums with GM execs who were like yeah, fisher just had crap QC thats why they were never allowed to build truck frames and bodies. one even told me my '86 cutlass front end would be off square by 7/8 to an inch...I measured and sure as **** he was right.
Not at this time. I use a 275/60 on the street and a 28x9.5 slick at the track. Might have to roll the lip a tiny bit but hopefully leave the chassis mostly stock (except for fixing the terrible factory fit and finish)
I am curious about how you guys are caging these cars. I'd love for my back bars to land on top of the rear axle upper spring perch to beef that area up, but it looks like I'd lose my rear seat that way
Also i'm pretty sure the rear springs have been replaced with some lift springs since it sits so high. I'm having trouble finding lowering springs with less than 150lbs rate I want....what are you guys doing for springs?
Trz and Wolfe racecraft make adjustable perches to use 12”X2.5” coil over springs. I use 150lb on my a-body.
[QUOTE what are you guys doing for springs? ][/QUOTE]
I went to the local circle track supply and got some weight jack bolts to weld in over the top spring bucket. Then you would have to use a straight non pig tail spring and a different perch on the axle. You can get almost any weight spring and even run different weights on each side since the ride height is totally adjustable.
every GM A/G body I've owned over the years has atrocious welds on the frame. I've been on forums with GM execs who were like yeah, fisher just had crap QC thats why they were never allowed to build truck frames and bodies. one even told me my '86 cutlass front end would be off square by 7/8 to an inch...I measured and sure as **** he was right.
It's even worse on some of the 70s/80s handbuilt cars I have encountered. I don't put crusty Triumphs on the lift anymore, most of the time when you take them off the doors, trunk, and hood won't shut.
well it's all fixed up now. had to grind all the boogies out and zap it with my neighbors millermatic 211...my lil miller 135xlt just doesn't put out the juice to do a lap weld without serious preheat.
8.8 is in and functions as promised. I'm in house move limbo packing all my **** for the move.
01-24-2019, 06:46 PM
