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Hey Everyone, probably beat to death but not exactly sure what I'm doing wrong.
I've got a procharger going on a forged LS2. Crankshaft is an Eagle forged crank. I bought the crank pinning kit from Brute speed (the one that drills end on) The bit that came with it broke once it cut through the ATI hub and then made contact with the end of the crankshaft.
I went and bought a cobalt bit, managed to cut into the crankshaft about an 1/8 of an inch and then it broke. I'm going fairly slow (took about 2 hours to cut into it an 1/8th, slow speed on the drill, moderate pressure, cutting fluid, keeping bit cool). Im running out of ideas as I dont have 24 hours to spend drilling this thing end on.
Someone guide me in the correct direction? What am I doing wrong? What do I need?
Hey Everyone, probably beat to death but not exactly sure what I'm doing wrong.
I've got a procharger going on a forged LS2. Crankshaft is an Eagle forged crank. I bought the crank pinning kit from Brute speed (the one that drills end on) The bit that came with it broke once it cut through the ATI hub and then made contact with the end of the crankshaft.
I went and bought a cobalt bit, managed to cut into the crankshaft about an 1/8 of an inch and then it broke. I'm going fairly slow (took about 2 hours to cut into it an 1/8th, slow speed on the drill, moderate pressure, cutting fluid, keeping bit cool). Im running out of ideas as I dont have 24 hours to spend drilling this thing end on.
Someone guide me in the correct direction? What am I doing wrong? What do I need?
Thanks!
I push as hard as I can on the drill as you don't want to work harden the surface. I run the drill at a fairly high speed, keep fluid on it and push hard which normally gets the shaving spiraling out. Bob
__________________ ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
A proper cobalt bit should go through a steel crank with ease. Proper cobalt bits are expensive though.
And I would disagree about a fast cutting speed. The fast speed of the average cordless drill is plenty fast. You could use a cutting lubricant too...but a cobalt bit shouldnt really need it for this quick/easy job.
HSS drill bits or even just coated drill bits will barely mark the hard steel of a crank.
I drilled 2 of mine with harbor freight bits Titanium Drill Bit Set 21 Pc and then cut the end off the same bits to use as pins but it was a stock crank. I'm cheap what can I say lol
The other one I drilled using the bit that came with the kit, Didn't have trouble with any of them.
Not sure why but multiple different brands of Cobalt bits are not making a mark. M42 not M35 cobalt bits.
I went and got a tungsten carbide dremel but to see if i could cut away some surface material if it was hardened (which it very much appears so, machine shop thinks it was nitride hardened?) and it does seem to get through it. But even after shaving away about an 1/8th of an inch around where 1 pin would be drilled, the bits still wont eat into it.
Guys at the machine shop not sure, we're just going to get a carbide bit and try and get through it.
I went with the slow go and cutting lubricant. Not quick or easy in the slightest. I think ive got over 10 hours in trying to cut into this thing. So far the dremel is the only thing doing it. Have to wait a week to get a carbide bit out here.
Not going to lie, I checked that about 8 times because I'm insanely confused. Its nice to know the carbide bits chew through it, I dont get why the cobalt ones wont though.
Make sure the leading edge of the bit stays sharp, if it is dull you'll be there all day. I sharpen my own drill bits on a bench grinder, been doing them that way for probably 35 years. Bob
__________________ ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
Hey Everyone, probably beat to death but not exactly sure what I'm doing wrong.
I've got a procharger going on a forged LS2. Crankshaft is an Eagle forged crank. I bought the crank pinning kit from Brute speed (the one that drills end on) The bit that came with it broke once it cut through the ATI hub and then made contact with the end of the crankshaft.
I went and bought a cobalt bit, managed to cut into the crankshaft about an 1/8 of an inch and then it broke. I'm going fairly slow (took about 2 hours to cut into it an 1/8th, slow speed on the drill, moderate pressure, cutting fluid, keeping bit cool). Im running out of ideas as I dont have 24 hours to spend drilling this thing end on.
Someone guide me in the correct direction? What am I doing wrong? What do I need?
Thanks!
If you ever have to do it again get the ATI crank pinning kit, its much easier to install and use especially if you have to remove the pulley again. The kits that drill end on are annoying and basically ruins a perfectly good crank and balancer (assuming you wanted to ever sell either in the future). I know that's no help now, but like also said why doesn't a forged crank have a keyway? Eagle just being cheap I guess?
Is the crank out of the car? If so, why not have a proper keyway cut? My local machinist will cut a crank key for $150. A lot more contact area than a pin.
If it's in the car I understand this is one of the only options. Let us know how the carbide bit works out. I'm surprised you had so much of an issue with cobalt bits.
But as above, with the correct bit this will be really easy.
When I tried even a decent HSS bit on a steel crank...it wouldnt even mark it.
Cobalt bit...30 secs, job done with no real effort at all. I used this and had new pins made to suit this size. ( part number seems to suggest carbide...I was under the impression it was cobalt but may have been wrong )
Steve that looks to be a carbide bit! I think that's what I ordered 😂. So that makes sense. The carbide dremel makes quick work of it so I hope the drill does the same.
I'm not sure why it doesn't have a key way but it's in the car or else I'd just have a shop do the cut.
I wanted the end on as I heard the other ones are generally not as strong? Beats me but everyone seems to use the end on pinning kit.
But as above, with the correct bit this will be really easy.
When I tried even a decent HSS bit on a steel crank...it wouldnt even mark it.
Cobalt bit...30 secs, job done with no real effort at all. I used this and had new pins made to suit this size. ( part number seems to suggest carbide...I was under the impression it was cobalt but may have been wrong )
Let me rephrase... ruin is strong, but I would not buy a crank or dampener that someone has gone to town on with a drill. Use a keyed dampener with the ATI pin kit and all is well, easier to install, looks more professional, really a win win. Really doesn't impact me anymore because I don't run superchargers but to each their own.
Let me rephrase... ruin is strong, but I would not buy a crank or dampener that someone has gone to town on with a drill. Use a keyed dampener with the ATI pin kit and all is well, easier to install, looks more professional, really a win win. Really doesn't impact me anymore because I don't run superchargers but to each their own.
What you are saying doesn't make any sense. The ATI Performance Products 918993 requires drilling the crank as well. The keyway in the hub is not used unless you have an aftermarket crank that is keyed. Bob
__________________ ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
05-14-2019, 06:44 PM
Crank Pinning - Hardest metal on earth? 
