Tube front/ flex fuel rear mount radiator GTO build vsr88/348
07-13-2019, 02:55 AM
#81
First, you don't want to spray pre-compressor because some will always mix with engine oil. Just ask your turbo manufacturer...
Next, water takes more heat per unit volume when it moves from liquid to gas state than ethanol or methanol.
water has a higher heat capacity and it is safe to spray through charge plumbing.
Compressing a flammable fully aerated/vaporized gas within thin-wall aluminum tubing held together by silicone and plastic parts. Is basically a rolling flame-thrower and makes for crispy critters, I would think there is no racing sanction where this would be considered 'legal' but I know people do it sometimes anyways and its always a bad idea in my opinion. This method makes up for intercooler inefficiency. If air is already coming out of the intercooler at ambient temperature, then any additional cooling due to high rate(highly volatile evaporative solvents such as methanol/acetone/etc) is going to force the intercooler to act like a heat absorber, since ambient will be higher temperature than inlet temps if you are successful. So now you also need water/air intercooling and then maybe you have some 10*F headroom, 2-3% or something after all of that maybe.
More info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...l#post18239813
Next, water takes more heat per unit volume when it moves from liquid to gas state than ethanol or methanol.
water has a higher heat capacity and it is safe to spray through charge plumbing.
Compressing a flammable fully aerated/vaporized gas within thin-wall aluminum tubing held together by silicone and plastic parts. Is basically a rolling flame-thrower and makes for crispy critters, I would think there is no racing sanction where this would be considered 'legal' but I know people do it sometimes anyways and its always a bad idea in my opinion. This method makes up for intercooler inefficiency. If air is already coming out of the intercooler at ambient temperature, then any additional cooling due to high rate(highly volatile evaporative solvents such as methanol/acetone/etc) is going to force the intercooler to act like a heat absorber, since ambient will be higher temperature than inlet temps if you are successful. So now you also need water/air intercooling and then maybe you have some 10*F headroom, 2-3% or something after all of that maybe.
More info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...l#post18239813
Last edited by kingtal0n; 07-13-2019 at 09:57 PM.
07-13-2019, 02:10 PM
#82
Doesn’t seem any different to me than a draw thru or a blow through setup on top of a sheet metal intake. I’m be never seen a car spray water on a PD blower car and have ice on the runners after a pass. Either way, I’ll post up the data one way or another.
07-15-2019, 09:11 AM
#84
Man ive seen those before and I wondered how much more work it is to remove the coils? Can you remove the whole valve cover without removing the coils? If not and you have to remove each coil to get the valve cover bolts out, well that would be no bueno in my opinion. Hopefully these make things easier for you and not harder. The coil brackets just make it so easy to just move all 4 coils out the way.
07-15-2019, 11:22 AM
#85
Man ive seen those before and I wondered how much more work it is to remove the coils? Can you remove the whole valve cover without removing the coils? If not and you have to remove each coil to get the valve cover bolts out, well that would be no bueno in my opinion. Hopefully these make things easier for you and not harder. The coil brackets just make it so easy to just move all 4 coils out the way.
Oh yea, it all comes off as one! Coils don’t need to be removed
08-11-2019, 03:16 PM
#95
Used another f body I had around to make a jig for the upper mounts, so I can make sure the angle and spacing is correct. Working on k member mounts currently and making sure the car is square on the k member. Difficult job by yourself to say the least
08-13-2019, 01:26 AM
#96
Well member is completely in. So stoked. Originally I was just going to drill
A hole through the top and bottom of the frame and call it good, tighten the bolt up and go. But, I thought maybe I should add some strength. So I tigged in a sleeve around each bolt, so that when I tighten the bolt down there is zero give between the top and bottom frame, and tigged a washer around each hole to spread out the load, as well as welded nuts to the bottom so it’s only one tool to remove like factory. Took a lot longer but I feel it done right now and am very confident in its structural strength this way. As soon as my chromoly rod comes in it’s time to start on the forward bars so I can get the struts mounts done.
08-18-2019, 09:06 PM
#100
Front motor plate is mounted in the car, gotta drill the holes out to 7/16 and add two more, but called it a night. Got all the front bars welded in, added more bracing to the strut towers, now to build the trans mount and then I’ll add the mid plate. Coming along nicely!