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I think they were meaning more-so pre-existing dirt, ect. But that is fine, if the trap door method works I'll go that route. As for the hotwire kit, I should still be able to run the wiring without dropping the tank shouldn't I?
Yes. The bulkhead is on the backside of the rear seats, below the tank so you can access it. You'll need a buddy to snake up the wiring from there to the top of the tank.
For tuning / PCM - should I order a pretuned PCM from a vendor, send mine off to have tuned, buy tuning hardware / software, or take it in for a dyno tune?
If I order a pretuned PCM, will I need to do anything with VATs?
If I take it in for a dyno tune, will the stock tune be enough to get me to a tuner or will it need to be towed?
Usually a mail order is to get you in the ballpark until you can get it to a dyno/track to really tune it. You can always learn yourself which is rewarding, but there can be a steep learning curve.
For tuning / PCM - should I order a pretuned PCM from a vendor, send mine off to have tuned, buy tuning hardware / software, or take it in for a dyno tune?
If I order a pretuned PCM, will I need to do anything with VATs?
If I take it in for a dyno tune, will the stock tune be enough to get me to a tuner or will it need to be towed?
We sell pcm's and program or just program yours if you send it in. With bigger injectors I would not drive it at all without getting atleast a base tune put in. Our recommendation would be buy HP Tuners and we can do everything through email if you have a wideband (we sell them also). As cheap as HPT is its worth having with a modded car IMO even if you dont know how to tune someone can always remote in and its great just for diagnostics.
We sell pcm's and program or just program yours if you send it in. With bigger injectors I would not drive it at all without getting atleast a base tune put in. Our recommendation would be buy HP Tuners and we can do everything through email if you have a wideband (we sell them also). As cheap as HPT is its worth having with a modded car IMO even if you dont know how to tune someone can always remote in and its great just for diagnostics.
Come to think of it, thats something I forgot, I'm using the stock LS3 injectors, is that going to be an issue for the BTR Stage 2 Cam? If so, what injectors should I grab?
Come to think of it, thats something I forgot, I'm using the stock LS3 injectors, is that going to be an issue for the BTR Stage 2 Cam? If so, what injectors should I grab?
Head Studs. Was going to go with ARP head studs but couldn't tell which part number to purchase, they don't seem to list LS3. I was guessing get the ones for an LS2?
Guys Im sorry, I ended up letting a shop do the work. I came pretty close to doing it myself but I lost confidence at the idea of pulling the motor and trans on my own with no prior experience to doing so, that and the front struts. They are a LS only shop and are very familiar with LS1 > LS3 conversions which was a big deciding factor in why I chose to go with them over doing it on my own.
The cam is in and the LS3 intake is installed
Anyway, they mentioned that the LS3 longblock was harder to turn over (by hand) than what they usually see. It is a freshly rebuilt long block but they said its rare they get them this stiff. They said its likely that the builder just didn't oil the rings, ect when installing them.
Comparing to an assembled longblock with the valvetrain intact they basically say my longblock is about twice as hard with the valvetrain components out.
Well if they are concerned, and presumably they've used this source or builder before ? Then of course you should be concerned if you're paying and buying this as a properly reconditioned motor.
Well if they are concerned, and presumably they've used this source or builder before ? Then of course you should be concerned if you're paying and buying this as a properly reconditioned motor.
I chose the builder, they're only supplying the labor, but yeah. I'm going to have them tear it down and check clearances. Builder already knows about the cam so if anything is wrong I pretty much have no warranty on it. Hoping its nothing serious.
I got my car back, LS3 installed. Its loud AF but the more annoying this is the exhaust rattle. (Speed Engineering True Duals). I'm going to take it to an exhaust shop if I can find one thats open and see if they can fix it.
Soooo I've never driven a cammed and stalled car before but it seems like you really have to put your foot into it while cruising to get it to do anything. Also its not really downshifting like it used to, I can go almost WOT and it wont kick back into 2nd.. Is that normal? Really seems like something is wrong with the tune, but not sure... I have a PLX device which can tell me OBD information while driving, I can't do it right now though, its way too loud to crank at night.
I have videos but someone called me and interrupted the recording so I'm going to retake it tomorrow.
10-10-2019, 10:07 AM
