Hassan1

Hello everyone

so I have reading alot of info about the best way to build a 5.3 or a 6.0 junkyard ls engines basically I am thinking about something unusual but I am lacking a little bit of info there so I thought ls1 experts can give me some guide lines straight forward here .
1-if I want to sleeve a 5.3 or a 6.0 what is the max cubic inches I can reach safely maybe 500ci?
2-I want to destroke it after sleeving it to its max safe cubic inches for example 500ci after destroking it will be something like 454ci or something which is still plenty of displacement so alot of torque and at the same time I get to run alot of boost at higher rpm's levels and at the same time it's cheaper than an ls7 or an LS3 which you can only stroke it to a 427ci without sleeves and at the same time higher rpm's engine .

3-what is better a dry sleeve vs a wet sleeve and why

​​​​​​4-I know some of these question may seem very strange or maybe not right as I said I am no expert I am someone who likes to read so far this is what I have came up with from collecting info here and there but i think or actually I am very sure I am messing something or misunderstood something about the sleeves because i don't totaly understand it however of anyone can tell me whether this setup is possible or not and why not the major thing here is to understand why this isn't possible or possible with the explanations.

thanks in advance.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

tblentrprz

destroke = reduced stroke. Based on your questions, it appears you want to stroke (add stroke) to a 5.3. It would be good to do some homework to know what factory bore and stroke is of a 5.3 and 6.0. What are the ci equivalent. What is the bore spacing (i.e. limits max bore). What stroke do you need to get to the ci you mention. This will help you grasp a little more of what you're asking.

You might get some better insight by asking, "I'm looking to build a motor to accomplish this goal, on this fuel, in this chassis, within these parameters and this budget." "What would you build and why?"

LetsTurboSomething

1: 391ci with a stock stroke length
2: If you de-stroke it to say, the 4.8l spec of 3.268" down from 3.622" then your 4.15" over bored block becomes a 352ci engine...
3: Use a factory block and crank and don't over think this.
4: The end.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Correct me if I'm wrong but that would result in an over-square combination which would be great at un-shrouding the valves would it not?
Also couldn't he then run a longer rod and increase his piston dwell time for more efficient combustion?
I remember these being tricks for N/A engines back in the day, would they translate into a tangible benefit in a boosted application today or am I slipping into senility lol.

LetsTurboSomething

Maybe? Im not sure what the longer rod will do because I'm not sure how close the piston top is to the deck height on that combo. But IMO it's still over thinking it for the majority of projects.

There is a rule I have for these types of posts in the forced induction forum. That is that what matters more to getting good information here is just telling people how much horse power you want from what engine you want to use. It's about that simple. As soon as you apply all the finer details of how to pull min/max amounts of HP out of N/A setups, you might as well just get a little more turbo under there and shove more air down it's throat because that is much, much easier than what N/A people do to find 8hp here and there. $3000 for ported heads, and another $3000 in manifolds and you get a 600hp 6.0 or you stick a $450.00 s475 clone on it and throw down 800hp. But in concept you are totally correct in that anything that makes and engine run better N/A will do the same for F/I.

If you have never built an engine and it's your first rodeo, don't go for trick **** in my opinion. Boost a factory engine with bigger injectors and maybe a cam change and work off of that. Because for 99.9% of people who come in here, they can get exceedingly higher HP levels than they even thought possible when they came through the door here off just a factory engine and a 78/75 setup mounted to bolt-on parts.

And also, when it comes to the topic of de-stroking an LS engine, it's just not worth considering. There is no real reason to do it unless you need to limit displacement for racing rules or something. All the classic reasons to de-stroke a small block v8 are moot with an LS engine. They can spin at warp speed from the factory at every produced displacement.

Hassan1

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

13-1500whp is pushing a stock block.
When it comes to rpm I've always been the type to make as much power as possible without needing to spin it to the moon, To make a high rpm engine reliable it can be expensive for the added power you're going to make. What kind of budget do you have for the long block?

tblentrprz

5.3 (thick/stable cyl walls), CCW crank, pistons (at least 11.5 comp), 3/4" deck heads, 1/2" studs, cam/valve train stable to 8500, supporting induction system, M1, ~38psi and tune (not aggressive). Done! Don't need short stroke to turn rpm.

Youtube Squirell or Capizzi to see gen 4 SBEs in >8k action. Nothing real fancy in valve train either.

Hassan1

Actually i see alot of people on YouTube running 5.3 blocks stock around these hp numbers and it seems very reliable that's why I assumed a modified one will take the power ,when it comes to rpm maybe your right maybe it can be pushing it or not but either way I want to see how a high rpm engine is just for the experience as long as it makes power about the budget if let's say average to low budget how much are we talking about

Hassan1

Thanks for the input that's like a full recipe for the power I want appreciated ,just curious is this a setup that you used to run or had any experience with ,great youtune channels by the way they are actually running 7s 1/4 mile passes on a sbe junkyard engines videos like these are what actually persuaded me into modifying a 5.3 or a 6.0 ls engine

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Interesting video of an engine tear down to see what broke and how other things held up.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

tblentrprz

That's the recipe I would use if were to build a stock block today for 1500whp. No sleeves. No longer stroke. I might start with E85 and see how far I could push it. Ultimately, M1 for serious power and keep things happier.

Here's some stock block steam. Sub 4.50 1/8 mile stuff, 1500+whp. Looks like issues with head and deck seal blowing out the side of block. Jump to 13:10 to see carnage.

Check out next vid for replacement build. Fuel hoops would be a good addition to help keep things sealed up.