X Max vs stand alone boost control
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 627
From: Florida
if you dont already have efilive/hpt, and even more so if you are swapping so you need a harness, the stock ecm route is pretty hard to justify. going in a 4th gen with an existing harness and dash definitely makes the decision point harder, but a boost controller isnt cheap, then you need a wideband, youre stuck tuning open loop, and data logging is pretty crippled compared to a holley.
my 02 silverado worked great but all the different 'add on' boxes was a little inconvenient, though effective.
my 02 silverado worked great but all the different 'add on' boxes was a little inconvenient, though effective.
if you dont already have efilive/hpt, and even more so if you are swapping so you need a harness, the stock ecm route is pretty hard to justify. going in a 4th gen with an existing harness and dash definitely makes the decision point harder, but a boost controller isnt cheap, then you need a wideband, youre stuck tuning open loop, and data logging is pretty crippled compared to a holley.
my 02 silverado worked great but all the different 'add on' boxes was a little inconvenient, though effective.
my 02 silverado worked great but all the different 'add on' boxes was a little inconvenient, though effective.
Is there a way to upsize the FONT on Holley?The 3 different views of my HPTuners datalogs are 100X easier for me to see and navigate.
Me having the other stuff...wideband, 2 step, boost controller, transbrake, etc...has been the biggest "CON" for me switching...
I've had a Terminator X or X Max in "My Cart" at least a dozen times...LOL.
That and a ROLLBAR kit...I still have that in my cart, at Rhodes Race Cars, since February.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 627
From: Florida
i havent tried it, but i bet the font sizes in the holley are a system/windows setting not a holley setting.
already having all that stuff could be a con, but i think the counter to that is that the holley makes it all one place and allows you a ton of flexibility and making it all 'work together'
but, its all a personal choice, and in your shoes i can definitely understand both directions.
already having all that stuff could be a con, but i think the counter to that is that the holley makes it all one place and allows you a ton of flexibility and making it all 'work together'
but, its all a personal choice, and in your shoes i can definitely understand both directions.
Biggest issue I have experienced with Holley datalogging, including even my own Sniper TBI setup when they first came out, is the IN-ability to see the damn thing outside if there's even a hint of sunshine. Even if it's inside with visibility, all the X and Y axis numbers are way too small for me to see. Is there a way to upsize the FONT on Holley?
The 3 different views of my HPTuners datalogs are 100X easier for me to see and navigate.
Me having the other stuff...wideband, 2 step, boost controller, transbrake, etc...has been the biggest "CON" for me switching...
I've had a Terminator X or X Max in "My Cart" at least a dozen times...LOL.
That and a ROLLBAR kit...I still have that in my cart, at Rhodes Race Cars, since February.
Is there a way to upsize the FONT on Holley?The 3 different views of my HPTuners datalogs are 100X easier for me to see and navigate.
Me having the other stuff...wideband, 2 step, boost controller, transbrake, etc...has been the biggest "CON" for me switching...
I've had a Terminator X or X Max in "My Cart" at least a dozen times...LOL.
That and a ROLLBAR kit...I still have that in my cart, at Rhodes Race Cars, since February.
As for the rhodes kit, its hard to beat for the price and came in two weeks via fedex. On my car the "roll bar" section fit great (main hoop, harness bar, rear supports, door bars etc), the forward 8.50 bars are a bit lower than I wanted but is what it is.
What are you viewing the log on? You could use whatever you are using for HPtuners that lets you see clearly.
As for the rhodes kit, its hard to beat for the price and came in two weeks via fedex. On my car the "roll bar" section fit great (main hoop, harness bar, rear supports, door bars etc), the forward 8.50 bars are a bit lower than I wanted but is what it is.
As for the rhodes kit, its hard to beat for the price and came in two weeks via fedex. On my car the "roll bar" section fit great (main hoop, harness bar, rear supports, door bars etc), the forward 8.50 bars are a bit lower than I wanted but is what it is.
Yeah, on the rollbar, I have no idea wtf I am waiting for...lol
They unknowingly "let me" go 11.0's during bracket racing, but all it'll take is one crybaby to protest me beating him, and then I'd be screwed. I'm 100% NOT doing a cage, but at least with a 6 point, I'd be able to go 10.0's, "legally". Also, would surely be a lot less raised eyebrows than when I run 9's with nothing...
I think the biggest reason I won't commit on that, is because I feel that with T-Tops and that serious F body sloped windshield, any form of rollover would be lethal with just a 6 point rollbar anyway. Dumb, no doubt, but that's the reason
Good to know it fits nicely. That's what I have heard from quite a few others.
EDIT****
Just viewed one of their sample tunes and see no option of resizing the fonts... I can't see ****, lol
Last edited by rel3rd; Jul 6, 2021 at 01:34 PM.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 627
From: Florida
Using same laptop. Since any Holley logs have not been "mine", I haven't tried to magnify them or whatever. I just know I can't see them...I just make whomever's log it is, tell me what it says...It sucks getting old...
Yeah, on the rollbar, I have no idea wtf I am waiting for...lol
They unknowingly "let me" go 11.0's during bracket racing, but all it'll take is one crybaby to protest me beating him, and then I'd be screwed. I'm 100% NOT doing a cage, but at least with a 6 point, I'd be able to go 10.0's, "legally". Also, would surely be a lot less raised eyebrows than when I run 9's with nothing...
I think the biggest reason I won't commit on that, is because I feel that with T-Tops and that serious F body sloped windshield, any form of rollover would be lethal with just a 6 point rollbar anyway. Dumb, no doubt, but that's the reason
Good to know it fits nicely. That's what I have heard from quite a few others.
EDIT****
Just viewed one of their sample tunes and see no option of resizing the fonts... I can't see ****, lol
Yeah, on the rollbar, I have no idea wtf I am waiting for...lol
They unknowingly "let me" go 11.0's during bracket racing, but all it'll take is one crybaby to protest me beating him, and then I'd be screwed. I'm 100% NOT doing a cage, but at least with a 6 point, I'd be able to go 10.0's, "legally". Also, would surely be a lot less raised eyebrows than when I run 9's with nothing...
I think the biggest reason I won't commit on that, is because I feel that with T-Tops and that serious F body sloped windshield, any form of rollover would be lethal with just a 6 point rollbar anyway. Dumb, no doubt, but that's the reason
Good to know it fits nicely. That's what I have heard from quite a few others.
EDIT****
Just viewed one of their sample tunes and see no option of resizing the fonts... I can't see ****, lol
Definitely cannot see the "labels" in the X and Y axis columns/rows
Using the link above, I do not have the "Display" page as referenced. MY option was to make everything bigger, from 125%, to 150%, which only screwed up all of my icons, lol. There is no option to resize anything via Holley, that I can see. HPTuners allows you to make the graph lines thicker, although untouched, I can see those MUCH easier than the Holley stuff
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Can't really see the graph lines, especially if there's any sun in the mix.
Definitely cannot see the "labels" in the X and Y axis columns/rows
Using the link above, I do not have the "Display" page as referenced. MY option was to make everything bigger, from 125%, to 150%, which only screwed up all of my icons, lol. There is no option to resize anything via Holley, that I can see. HPTuners allows you to make the graph lines thicker, although untouched, I can see those MUCH easier than the Holley stuff
Definitely cannot see the "labels" in the X and Y axis columns/rows
Using the link above, I do not have the "Display" page as referenced. MY option was to make everything bigger, from 125%, to 150%, which only screwed up all of my icons, lol. There is no option to resize anything via Holley, that I can see. HPTuners allows you to make the graph lines thicker, although untouched, I can see those MUCH easier than the Holley stuff
The other option is if you use the Pro Dash you can log and playback on the dash directly which is pretty much all I've done since I got it. You can make a pass and review it on the return road, or on the street make a pull then replay it while cruising.
Can't say I've ever messed with the lines in HPtuners either. Perhaps you just need a larger screen? I use a 15.6" screen with a typical 1920x1080 resolution and can have Holley and HPtuners open side by side and fully usable.
The other option is if you use the Pro Dash you can log and playback on the dash directly which is pretty much all I've done since I got it. You can make a pass and review it on the return road, or on the street make a pull then replay it while cruising.
The other option is if you use the Pro Dash you can log and playback on the dash directly which is pretty much all I've done since I got it. You can make a pass and review it on the return road, or on the street make a pull then replay it while cruising.
Maybe I just need some 4X cheaters...
What are you wanting your boost control to do now that it doesn't?
A decent manual controller will meet 75% of the street/strip users needs IMO. If boost is creeping or doing odd things, its not the controller. Its usually the WG placement. *IF* the gate is working as it should a manual controller/spring should get you your target within 1-2 psi pretty consistently. Then use timing to control traction where needed.
A decent manual controller will meet 75% of the street/strip users needs IMO. If boost is creeping or doing odd things, its not the controller. Its usually the WG placement. *IF* the gate is working as it should a manual controller/spring should get you your target within 1-2 psi pretty consistently. Then use timing to control traction where needed.
What are you wanting your boost control to do now that it doesn't?
A decent manual controller will meet 75% of the street/strip users needs IMO. If boost is creeping or doing odd things, its not the controller. Its usually the WG placement. *IF* the gate is working as it should a manual controller/spring should get you your target within 1-2 psi pretty consistently. Then use timing to control traction where needed.
A decent manual controller will meet 75% of the street/strip users needs IMO. If boost is creeping or doing odd things, its not the controller. Its usually the WG placement. *IF* the gate is working as it should a manual controller/spring should get you your target within 1-2 psi pretty consistently. Then use timing to control traction where needed.
I agree they work fine for what they are meant to do, boost has been on a rope with a $30 manual controller in many builds. But a lot of owners don't know how to use timing pull for traction with a stock ECM, or how to adjust it for varying surfaces. Heck a lot of guys have too much timing in general because they don't know what it actually wants.
Boost by gear with a manual controller? Sure you can use timing alone, but typically not clobbering the car with 20+PSI in first gear helps too especially on the street.
I agree they work fine for what they are meant to do, boost has been on a rope with a $30 manual controller in many builds. But a lot of owners don't know how to use timing pull for traction with a stock ECM, or how to adjust it for varying surfaces. Heck a lot of guys have too much timing in general because they don't know what it actually wants.
I agree they work fine for what they are meant to do, boost has been on a rope with a $30 manual controller in many builds. But a lot of owners don't know how to use timing pull for traction with a stock ECM, or how to adjust it for varying surfaces. Heck a lot of guys have too much timing in general because they don't know what it actually wants.
I joke, I joke! But even my little turbo setups didn't make moon boost in 1st. I was just curious what the OP was after that the manual controller wasn't providing. A 2 step manual controller is also cheap and easy to do.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
What I was looking for was a couple things, being able to program a certain boost, so I dont have to keep making street hits and turning the controller until I got that boost, and also do a 93 octane tune, and an E50ish tune.
Its a street car, at the most I might hit a rental or T & T, although my old local track is having a 2nd reopening, so depending on classes, might play, lol. I got my meth spray hooked up, so hopefully hit a dyno soon.
Its a street car, at the most I might hit a rental or T & T, although my old local track is having a 2nd reopening, so depending on classes, might play, lol. I got my meth spray hooked up, so hopefully hit a dyno soon.
Who in their right mind uses a manual transmission? I joke, I joke!
But even my little turbo setups didn't make moon boost in 1st. I was just curious what the OP was after that the manual controller wasn't providing. A 2 step manual controller is also cheap and easy to do.
I joke, I joke!But even my little turbo setups didn't make moon boost in 1st. I was just curious what the OP was after that the manual controller wasn't providing. A 2 step manual controller is also cheap and easy to do.
GTX55 on a 5.3L can see 27+PSI in first with a manual, if an auto can't do that something is wrong. What I was looking for was a couple things, being able to program a certain boost, so I dont have to keep making street hits and turning the controller until I got that boost, and also do a 93 octane tune, and an E50ish tune.
Its a street car, at the most I might hit a rental or T & T, although my old local track is having a 2nd reopening, so depending on classes, might play, lol. I got my meth spray hooked up, so hopefully hit a dyno soon.
Its a street car, at the most I might hit a rental or T & T, although my old local track is having a 2nd reopening, so depending on classes, might play, lol. I got my meth spray hooked up, so hopefully hit a dyno soon.
I was under the impression a spring was pretty much idiot proof. If you want a 2 step manual controller you simply spring it to your desired base low boost. It will be the same, all the time. So I'd have a pump gas spring at say 10-14lbs. Then you could use a simple manual boost controller to set your high boost setting. Set it and leave it alone. Have a vacuum solenoid to activate the high/low boost settings. This can all be done for less than $20. You can also trigger the "high" setting with something like a micro switch, shifter button, button on floor, etc. basically a "Scramble/go baby go" button. I think for many this is more than sufficient boost control.
Getting CO2 setup and blowing $500-1000+ boost controller setups is a complete waste for most street/strip setups. (IMO) If you already have an ECU that does this, more power to you... bit of a no brainer.