Trying to bring IAT's down with TVS2300 ideas?
 

Had my C5 on the dyno yesterday and IATs skyrocketed bad on the TVS2300 and even on E85, we had to go to a bigger pulley to get the IATs somewhat lower :( Tuner thinks I should run the heat exchanger lines to the trunk and put a big enough tank in there, away from the underhood heat. I was thinking of doing that together with a nice pump back there like a Craig Davis... What do you guys think? Also can I use regular coolant rubber hose like 1" heater hose for the lines?

I also have a Co2 sprayer kit I got a while back, that sprays co2 on the the heat exchanger during boost - maybe I should try that out?

This is not a track car or drag car, just a show and go weekend warrior car :)

What kind of IATs are we talking about here? and what is considered skyrocketing? A lot of dyno operators don't have fans that work for shit especially in the summer on Corvettes.

I am not familiar with the heat exchanger that the TVS uses on a C5.

Do you have a means to monitor your own IATs and if so what are they like actually rolling down the road?

Street driven ?
Verify that coolant pump is operating ?
Are you getting KR ?
What is actual IAT ?
Do you think this would be a problem with actual AIRFLOW while driving the car ?

IATs where up in the 180s after one dyno pull with outside temp around 80F. I am using the oem heat exchanger that comes with the tvs2300 and it is mounted directly on the front of my radiator (engine coolant temps are still good). I can monitor the IATs on the road and it's still high like that. Note that the tvs uses its own IAT sensor which is mounted on its manifold - Yes this will make the temps higher but not that high as far as I know...

I might try replacing the IAT on the tvs2300 first...

180 degrees or higher on the dyno or the dragstrip is fairly "standard" for a TVS2300. The tank in the trunk with ice helps if you are at the drags, but you have to refill the ice often. The extra capacity helps a little even if you don't use ice. A larger intercooler would help also. Problem is--at wot, the iat's shoot up really fast and the internal cooler brick can't cool that much air that fast. I tried the CO2 spray and was really disappointed. Wouldn't recommend it, especially for just driving around. $40 bucks---poof! If you monitor the iat's during driving around, they are probably not going to get that hot unless it's 100 degrees and you get stuck in traffic.
If you have a newer Heartbeat, Magnuson has changed some sealing internally of the two bricks and also rerouted the way the coolant flows through the bricks. You might check on that, because it DOES help.

Wmi..

Yup only way to get a PD blower to work worth AF. Run 100% methanol through the blower and it will stay frosty, my throttle body, snout, and lid was nice and condensating on 20PSI that way. Pick up a little boost from sealing the rotors better as well. Then got rid of all that junk and went turbo :jest:

spray m1 methanol.

Some of the local dirt track cars have rigged conventional Windshield Washer spray pump and nozzles to throw straight water at the front of radiator, and will dump a gallon of FREE evaporative coooling near the end of a points race. .
I've heard they can bring cylinder head coolant temps down 20 degrees.

Ya Subaru and Mitsubishi tried that. However, I'm not sure its the greatest idea to throw water under a RWD cars tires on asphalt.

So no 50/50 water meth? I have an AEM water meth kit I could use... will 50/50 make ANY difference or just use straight methanol? Thx!

It'll make a difference, especially if you already have it.

Only 1 way to find out. 100% would try it.

Magnuson clearly states that meth is not to be used with the TVS blowers. It will remove the coating on the rotors. Not sure if throwing it in downstream of the blower would do much good.

Depending on how fast it goes up, it could be a thing with the IAT sensor and resistances in the ecm if they switched from a MAF style sensor to an independent one. I know when putting my LSA on my G8 and switching the IAT to the Lid there is a resistance difference the LSA motor uses in the tune and having the old information can cause the IAT to read high and sky rocket.

I've also experimented with the flow of fluid and have found that cooling comes best from Supercharger IC -> Res -> HX -> pump. I remember on an old TVS2300 setup a friend did for his G8 that it had the pump pushing through the HX and flow was weak I figured from resistance. Switched lines around and was a river coming out instead of a trickle and IAT dropped noticeably.

Depending on how far you want to take it, you can look at doing one of the A/C tie in systems or do as others suggested and do meth injection. I have an A/C reliant system on my G8 and driving to work on a day like today with ambient being 98* my temps got down to 72 without the race setting switched on so I had cabin A/C. Drawback is it does take a while for the system to kick in after it has sat, but once it is going it's hard to beat. Just my 0.02.

So my tuner thinks I need to quit hanky panking around with a 2300 and go to a Kong 2650. The engine is built to handle well over 1000hp btw, fully forged LSX 388cu... idk decisions decsions lol

How much does it cost to install a WMI kit you already own vs. buying a 2650?

LOL oh don't get me wrong, that thing is $$$ and I'm definitely gonna play around with the water meth first or hell even just enjoy it for this year :)

After reading this I am glad I never bought their C5 kit. That is pathetic.

I've never seen IATs anywhere near that high with the LSA.

Always runs well under 100 degrees just driving around and might pick up 10 degrees on a 2nd and 3rd gear pull. I would expect maybe 25 degrees on a quarter mile pass.

No ice tanks here. Stock brick and stock ZL1 heat exchanger.