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Blown pistons and sleeve... Lots of rebuilding and ?'s... Paging EPP and KP

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Old 11-11-2006, 12:30 PM
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Default Blown pistons and sleeve... Lots of rebuilding and ?'s... Paging EPP and KP

I dont know exactly what happened but i pulled the engine out and I need all new pistons... So I want to change things now while the engine is out... I have a good chunk of money and need your honest opinions what I should do or what YOU would do if you had my ride...

This is mostly a drag car with occasionally drivin on the street for about an hour or less at a time...

While the motor is back at W2W I need to know what I should do (from your experience)

2000 ws6
I have a ls6 346cid blower motor 9.5:1 compression
TH400 with 5200 stall with 2 step and trans brake (stall and 2step is new)
12bolt w/ custom 3.90gears (gear is new)
D1 procharger @ 15psi @7200rpms
I will be installed the FAST computer system this winter (finally - i know - i know)
Removed all A/C and HVAC (new)
Car ran 9.90 @ 140+ on a hott summer day

1.) What pistons?
2.) What bore and stroker kit? (KP - EPP - help!?!?)
2.) Whats the best cam to use? (KP?)
3.) What aftermarket radiator to put in?
4.) Should i put an electric water pump?
5.) Best flywheel?

These are just the things I can think of... I'd like to have a consistant 9second car for next summer... Any and all help would be appreciated...

Jayson
Old 11-11-2006, 12:50 PM
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I'm pretty sure the guys at W2W can answer most of your questions. I would do a BS3 over the FAST if I was going to go with a standalone.

Your car ran decent for the weight in the summer, I would stay with what you had but if the block and pistons are trashed I would maybe go to an LS2 block, if you want a 4" stroke (402) thats up to you.

Cam, I dont think what you had was that bad, once again I would discuss this all with W2W. They have more LS1 experience then anyone and I would trust their judgement.

EWP, it works out OK for me and its great to have at the track. But after a while the alternator is getting taxed, I had to upgrade to an 140amp alternator to keep up. Six of one/half dozen of another but the ability to cool the car off between passes at the track in 10 minutes makes it worth it to me.

Any radiator that fits is the best to put in

I am using the TCI flexplate with no issues, ATI, hughes and several others make LS1 SFI flexplates as well.
Old 11-11-2006, 07:10 PM
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dont get the mahle pistons.....get some made from 2816 or 2618...i forgot the number
Old 11-11-2006, 09:21 PM
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Did you detonate the shortblock and are the piston skirts messed up? I've done that.

I'd do:
BS3 not FAST

I don't know what your cam was before, but I'd not go nuts with cam unless you are building a track only car.
Old 11-11-2006, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
dont get the mahle pistons.....get some made from 2816 or 2618...i forgot the number
Why not? Thats what we run in our 408 and what I have in my LS2. These are the race pistons spec by W2W.
Old 11-11-2006, 09:37 PM
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w2w says not for more than 1000flywheel....i think you have their custom severe duty. I am talking about the standard turbo Mahles.
Old 11-11-2006, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
w2w says not for more than 1000flywheel....i think you have their custom severe duty. I am talking about the standard turbo Mahles.
I'd say we do.
Old 11-11-2006, 09:49 PM
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Mahle makes pistons from 4032 and 2618 in there performance line. We have tested every major piston made for power, then tested the best four (most power) for durability. Mahle is second to none.
Jayson would get the best piston for his engine, unless he specs something else.

Kurt
Originally Posted by cablebandit
dont get the mahle pistons.....get some made from 2816 or 2618...i forgot the number
Old 11-12-2006, 05:08 AM
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If you crank is still in good shape, you certainly could reuse it which would keep the cost down. A 346 cubic inch can certainly make the power you are looking for.

It sounds like you already had forged internals, did you determine what caused the damage?
What intercooler/intercoolers are you using? The reason I ask is we once tried running 15 psi of boost on an engine with the smaller 3.5" twin intercoolers, and the inlet air temps got extremely hot. Bob
Old 11-12-2006, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by kp
EWP, it works out OK for me and its great to have at the track. But after a while the alternator is getting taxed, I had to upgrade to an 140amp alternator to keep up. Six of one/half dozen of another but the ability to cool the car off between passes at the track in 10 minutes makes it worth it to me.
Slightly off topic perhaps...

But how are these for road use ?? reliable enough ?? It isnt a DD but I do cover about 6-7000 miles a year.
When stationary, with engine running, would they offer any cooling benefits over the stock pump ? ( thinking about traffic situations )

I'd like the ability to cool the engine down whilst at the track too, when queuing for runs, but it would need to be an all round performer, rather than just an engine off cooling pump.
Old 11-12-2006, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Slightly off topic perhaps...

But how are these for road use ?? reliable enough ?? It isnt a DD but I do cover about 6-7000 miles a year.
When stationary, with engine running, would they offer any cooling benefits over the stock pump ? ( thinking about traffic situations )

I'd like the ability to cool the engine down whilst at the track too, when queuing for runs, but it would need to be an all round performer, rather than just an engine off cooling pump.
Not that much off topic since he did ask

The main advantage is it is moving the full volume of water at slow speeds/idle. On the highway I would say the stocker wins by a small margin, I think at higher RPM the stock pump can move more water. But thats with no OD and 3.73 gear, a M6 in 6th on the highway may be different since the rpm is lower.

First one I had started leaking within a day but to be fair I bought it from summit and the manufacture date was 2 years old so its been sitting a while, sent it back and it was fixed very quickly and its been fine since.
Old 11-12-2006, 09:52 AM
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We like the mahle and the diamond, I like the EWP it's nice to keep the motor cool at the track.Sometimes you get forced into hot lapping the car and keeping the motor cool is going to help you ward off detination. Upgrade the intercooler if you havent already this is key to making it perform and repeat with out any worries, know your IAT and let them decide if your going to abort a pass or not. alot of guys do not calibrate the IAT timing table its there for reason!
And Ill probably get flamed but i like that IRON block, go for the cubes! a stainless top ring, and im sure W2W will get you a stick that will give you some good mid range torque to accelerate that procharger.

Good Luck!
Brent
Old 11-12-2006, 10:08 AM
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since an EWP is being discussed i figured this would fit. what is the life span of one? ive always been leary of buying one because i was afraid it would last very long. is this true? my car is being built for mostly street use so reliability is a huge concern for me. what is the failure rate like for these and is it something ill have to replace every year or so or will it last a long time?
Old 11-12-2006, 10:16 AM
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I have no idea what the failure rate is on theEWPs, maybe ask in the external section. I know a few guys that have them on their DDs and I havent heard any complaints except for an occasional drip here and there.
Old 11-12-2006, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Brent@EPP
And Ill probably get flamed but i like that IRON block, go for the cubes! a stainless top ring, and im sure W2W will get you a stick that will give you some good mid range torque to accelerate that procharger.


Brent
No reason to get flamed for that, its hard to argue that an iron block is stronger but unfortunately it comes at a weight price.

Now if you have a 3900lb land barge I agree that 100lbs is no big deal, but 100lbs over the nose is a lot on an already nose heavy car if you are looking for ETs. After a point that 100lbs will seem like a million when you try to lose it Not to mention the procharger bracket loses one of its mounting points on the iron blocks..

IMO the cylinder bore distortion thing is way overplayed, if you are building a 1000-1500hp setup then I would be scared. for a 500-800hp setup I dont think anyone will have issues. I can guarantee way more FI engines lose seal and tear up from detonation, wanting to be a pump gas hero and bad tuning then bore distortion.
Old 11-12-2006, 10:50 AM
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Mahle and Wiesco/JE are the best choices IMO. If you are buying the power pack from Mahle then you want to make sure what the specs are, but if you order a custom set they will be made from the material that is best for your application such as 2618 etc... Good lucj.
Jeff
Old 11-13-2006, 09:46 AM
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I know the guys at w2w will take care of me - like always - but i just wanted to get a round about idea of what i could be dealing with... I still dont know what happened to the engine... It appears that the electrode off the plug broke off and got inside of the cyclinder wall... Their is a small scrape on the side of wall... I'm waitin for Billy to get back with me @ w2w...

I think i'll be pushing real close to 900fwhp so i want to make sure im doing everything correct to our knowledge. I just want a consistant 9second car that i can tune myself and user friendly - think the bs3 is the way to go... I wanted to stick with fast because most of my car has all the fast components...

I am using a Griffin I/C (FMIC) - I mad 15.5psi at the blower and 15psi at the throttle body @ 6700rpms - i'm certain its very efficient.

I still need to debate if im going with that EWP, i'm just a bit skeptical - but being able to run that thing while the car is off in the lanes is what im estatic about...

Anywho, thanks y'all for your help! I will keep you posted on the new setup, specs and HP she'll be making... Look for her in February when the bird should be able to get into COBO for Autorama...



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