Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I am wondering if turbo charging an LSx engine is "more bang for the buck" / more power for the money??? I am thinking i will always pay more for a Natural Aspirated motor. Is it possoble to have a 800hp turbocharged motor, and use it for a daily driver also? i am always looking around of what i would like to do to my engine in my 00 t/a and i have no clue which way to go.

Thanks!

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

if you want "Bang for the Buck" get N2O or a stroker, lol! And you can have a 2000hp daily driver, it just depends on your tolerance for bad manners.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I have though about N20, but i think thats high maintenance, and i usually hear things go wrong.

But what about Forced Induction motors?

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

High maint.??? Fill the bottle up and go, how hard is that? Plus youre not spraying all the time so its pretty cost/labor effective to use it.
And if you look at all the problems associated with N2O, 9 times out of 10 its user default.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

So basically the owner screws up, if something goes wrong... like a blown engine.
Can you have a Turbo motor with N20?

52172

iTrader: (2)

Best bang for buck would problibly be a l92 stroker with l92 heads and l76 intake a shop here in Ca just made 520 rwhp with unported heads and unported intake and nothing fancy. 550 rwhp should not be a problem with a little more attention to detail. this setup is a lot less expensive than forced induction and probibly easier to maintain.

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

thats another NICE option!

chris.shea

N2O aint exactly "Cheap". price it out to do it right (directport, standalone, all associated goodies and fills) when you spray big (200+) you burn through nitrous quick. id burn through 20lbs of nitrous a day at the track on a smaller 150shot. ($6.50 per pound so after taxes 140 bucks). this doesnt even count how much i used on the street. maintnance was simple(check noids, jets and clean filter)

otherwhitemeat

iTrader: (3)

if you think n2o is high maintenance.........dont get a turbo!!!!!!!!

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

Well, there is no law stating that you have to run a direct port, standalone or bells and whistles... and its also legal to run just a 100 or 150 shot. And do it right??? I guess my uncle who has a mid 9 second Chevelle with a plate system (for the last 5 yrs WITHOUT a problem) isnt "doing it right" then huh? Bottom line is, COMPARED to FI, N20 is CHEAP (on initial buy-in). Of course if you want to do a top dollar setup then the price will go up (like with anything).

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Any high HP DD motor is going to be pretty pricey to setup correctly. The less you initially spend, the more maintenance will be required. The good thing about turbos is the ability to make insane power and keep good driving manners on the street. The highest HP/displacement factory cars that have to be relatively maintenance free and carry a warranty are turboed.

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

now aint that the truth. ive had a n/a motor and FI and i had the most fun with the NA setup. it was reliable and didnt have to continuosly watch the gauges. go with that l92 stroker setup. thats what i would do. call ron at vengence racing and forget about it

jn1300r

TTT

chris.shea

well lets try keeping power between the two the same. you dont bolt on a supercharger/turbo and only shoot for 100 and 150hp gains respectively. i too have a plate kit(qualiy piece)but leaves me some to be desired for even cylinder distribution. your average AFR between 4 cylinders may read 11.8 but you can have quite a difference between each cylinder. if i did nitrous again it would be the way i stated. the buy in is cheaper but nitrous has a nice way of nickel and diming you to death when your only "fast" on the bottle. if your strict track racer nitrous will be cheaper over the life of the car but my car is used daily and i want power on tap any time i want.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

Bang for buck is N2O. FI is extremely intense as far as money, labor, and planning. Don't get me wrong N2O can be but it can also be simple and cheap. It will also depend on what power level you are shooting for. If you spray big and go to the track a lot your motor will pay but not due to malfunction but just in wear. A huge hit effects the engine differently. If just run a 100 or 150 you would be fine. My opinion is a H/C with a 150 shot wet kit for bang for buck!

EPP

iTrader: (22)

For reliability, check out this 740 rwhp Corvette that is being driven on a road race track, and was also recently driven on a vacation and saw 28 mpg. Bob

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

without question forced induction is the way to go.

the cost of refilling bottles over a year adds up, plus you have the inconvenience of not having the power there when the bottle is empty.

Go F/I and never look back. Add nitrous on top to go into hyperspace!

LittleV6

I'm a big fan of FI, but that's cause it's about the only way to make power with small motors. Being an import guy, my standard of small way different than yours. 122CI (2.0L) is typical, and my car at 181 (3.0L) is a "big motor".

As far as what's going to be lower maintenance I can't help. Oh, and the turbo+ N20 thing is just as bad, as straight N20. Your only going to be your standard of fast on the bottle, everything else just seems slow.

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

Lets be realistic for a second, how much does it cost to refill a 10lb. bottle ,what, ~40 bucks? And that SHOULD last for about 8-11 full qtr. mile passes...Now unless youre getting your bottle filled every other day, it will be a while before you catch up to the price of a FI kit. Now general maint. is req'd of all setups, FI you have belt, oil, bearings, springs, etc. (granted, if anything needs to be replaced it will cost money of course ). Nothings lasts forever anyway so if youre on a VERY SMALL budget...Go N2O!!! No matter which way YOU pick, I guarantee you'll be faster!

chris.shea

the general rule of thumb is 1lb is burned every 10 seconds for 100 shot. you will never get full use of all 10lbs unless you use a push system(not NHRA legal?) with a heater i would get about 5-6 solid runs before performance started dropping off. if you race plenty expect to burn 15+lbs a night. check local prices before you commit to nitrous. ive burned over $2thousand+ in nitrous being conservative with 5 bottles a month @ $6.50LB+Tax. from june to december alone. this doesnt count bottles tuning or giving people rides just strictly what i personally burned racing.