650rwhp help on ignition...
Good luck.
i talked to someone this weekend and something similar to this happend person... they said when this happend to them it was the ecu - they fried it because it got too hott... after the last dyno pull he let the car cool off for a good hour - tried starting it and fired right back up... ran it on the dyno and did the same thing... he replaced the the ecu and no problems since... now i dont know if this is my case but that would def. relieve alot of stress from me knowing it was...
how big of a pain in the *** is it to replace the timing chain/ reluctor wheel?
either way i probably will not be at milan friday... ****!
thanks guys for your help... once i figure the problem out for certain... i'll post what happens... along with some rwhp numbers itching at 700...
The reluctor wheel is tack welded - could it move even tho its welded?
Crank sensor was reading 69rpms when engine ignition is on acc... We replaced the sensor and the thing will still not start... No other codes were showing up and no check engine lights... All fuses are good... Relay's okay...
I removed the two step and that wasnt the problem...
After trying these things, which everyone recommended the car still WONT START... Now, what was odd to me is the engine cranks over and it seems like she wants to fire, but doesn't... At one time the engine almost fired but herd a big "boom" outta the exhaust... I called it quits after that...
I dont know what else to do? I'm getting a new pcm on monday to see if the pcm is fried... Could the timing chain be shot? Does anyone have any other ideas I can check...?
If the timing chain is broken, it shouldn't sound like it wants to start because the cam wouldn't be turning and there wouldn't be any valve events. More than likely it wouldn't turn over as anyway. I think if that were the case it would cause more problems than you're having.
I'd guess a backfire out the exhaust is better than back out the intake, but if there is no spark why did it backfire to begin with?
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