Drewstein

I did 640rwhp on a procharger, cam, and headers safely on 91 octane.

It's all in the tune.

THEhomelessONE

damn, how much psi did you have to run?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You are looking at $3K minimum to do a forged shortblock. My motor made 867rwhp. Mine cost more than $3K but it's not as high dollar as some of the big cube stuff.

THEhomelessONE

lol sorry dont know much about american engines, what do you mean by doing a forged shortblock? getting a new engine? if i dont get a sportbike i can get 10g's by sep or oct

BigBenz

iTrader: (7)

short block is no heads. long block has heads. Shops ar about 65 to 90 dollers per hour. If your going to have a motor build ask bob if he does them. FI (forced induction) is super fun when its all done. But you will get the "bug" were you have to keep going faster and faster. you would be better off getting a ATI D1SC kit from bob. Instaling it your self and going from there.

THEhomelessONE

that kit is the procharger one right? yea my friend has that "bug" he just bought an integra typr r and now hes tired of the JDM b18c5 and wants a b20 boosted, his car stock was quick, only weighs 2400lbs, does the supercharger use oil? if it does do i have to make a line from the engines oil or is it self contained?

Project Dc2

iTrader: (4)

tell your friend b20 boosted is a horrible idea. boost the b18C5 if its not a 96 motor with 11.3:1 compression

I've done many successful stock type R boost setups.

BigBenz

iTrader: (7)

First his car most likely aint quick. When you come out of the ricer world there is true speed. If you have a stock LS1 im willing to bet you will smoke your buddie. Is all self contained. Its the best out there. The supercharger has its own oil resivor. This is the D1sc procharger kit from BoB at EPP. There is a few different choices you would want to call bob and talk to him for the kit that best suits you.


http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=798

THEhomelessONE

its a high comp. jdm one, he wants more torque out of it, hes going to swap a VTEC head on it

THEhomelessONE

lol yes ur right, thats why im trying to learn a bit about american cars, imports get boring because your mostly limited at about 300hp, 400hp if you have the money and are willing to take the risk of your engine blowing, and with the same amount of money you get 400 out of an import you can get 600 from a domestic, but my friends wont change lol one of them just got an 01 eclipse, i just nodded my head and laughed and he did too(dont think he knew i was laughing at him)

BigBenz

iTrader: (7)

and their HP is flywheel. When we talk about HP is rear wheel hp. I got 460 with just a procharger.

THEhomelessONE

which PSI option did you choose?

THEhomelessONE

lol because power doesnt get to their rear wheels

BigBenz

iTrader: (7)

im running 460 rwhp at 7.78 bls of boost. on my D1sc procharger. I have the 8 lb setup. Get the D1SC kit dont get a P1SC.

THEhomelessONE

ok, what is the difference between the D1SC and the P1SC? wont they both work on the LS1? ill take your word on it, im just curious why

THEhomelessONE

thanks for helping me out with everything guys, this board is great.

torlak_t

hope u will get reply from EPP, they might be too busy that have not replied me last two times.!!

Project Dc2

iTrader: (4)

b20's Siamese sleeves proves to be very weak in design. I do not recommend him boosting a b20 at all. He will make more reliable power just changing out his pistons. ( if its 10.5:1 compression he can STILL boost it up to 320WHP rather safely)


umm ... 2500 lb chassis/ 400 WHP = 6.25 HP per lb ( power to weight ratio)

F-bodies are roughly what .. 3400 lbs ? / 600 WHP = 5.67 Hp per lb


name of the game is traction, torque and power band.


incorrect, you can easily make 300- 325 WHP ( FWHP *brouhaha *) on a stock integra Vtec *( B18C1/C5) motor with proper tuning. Some risky individuals have pushed up to 500 WHP out of bone stock motors on race gas tunes.
While I do not recommend pushing 500 WHP out of stock internals, 400 WHP with a simple rod and piston build is very easily accomplished.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Get the D-1SC, it flows more than the P-1SC.

BTW- the "SC" stands for "self contained" as in self contained oil, you don't use your engine oil, it has its own oil you change every 6k miles.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

the D1SC is reccomended because theres room to grow.. you actually are limited by how much power you're willing to push on your stock motor.. not the blower.

the P1SC is a smaller supercharger, and is right near its limit on the LS1.... it cannot grow much further...


thats the basics of why people reccomend the D1SC over the P1SC...

as for the power level, i wouldnt push a daily driven, still 30hwy MPG dead stock LS1 past 550hp...

once you upgrade the rods and pistons, then push it as far as you want.. the block and crank can take more power then you can afford to make anyway...

your primary limitation is not going to be making the power... its using the power you make.. as you go up in power, the drivetrain will slowly need to be upgraded.. first a rear.. then a clutch... driveshaft... trans.. ect...