FI Motor, Need Advice
05-17-2007, 03:18 PM
#1
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FI Motor, Need Advice Okay some of you know I blew my motor about a month ago and I'm tired of seeing her dead in the driveway. Motor is half pulled (left it in because I like being able to roll it around and go vroom vroom 
). I decided to just get a 6.0 LS2 block and upgrade from there. It came with a modified crank for use with the ls1 sensor. I'm new to both the 6.0 and to an LS2.
Plans for the motor: Forged bottom end, stock crank, lower compression for FI; I'm still debating on the method of FI.. love turbo but dont want to lose AC or have pipes under the K-Member so I might go S/C, then I can keep my long tubes and exhaust note aswell. I have ported heads that I'll be taking off and getting flow tested. I'm getting a fast 90 mm intake manifold aswell.
Goals: I'd like to be in the 700-800hp range once it's all said and done and have the car be reliable as a DD.
Money: is an object to a point. I'd rather not spend $1000 on something that I can get for $800 that is just as good if not better(for example, Wiseco pistons instead of Diamond). When its for those 'added insurance' deals, I'd rather be safe then sorry.
So: What would ya'll suggest I fill the short block with in regards to pretty much everything, from brand to size. I know a good automotive machine shop aswell if that makes things easier. Also, would it be a good idea to go ahead and get a new (bmr or similar) K-member? If so, which mounts? I planned on replacing my existing mounts with poly ones when doing the swap. I'm also not sure which parts will transfer (oilpump, pushrods, lifters, heads, headers, ect) from my existing motor, please enlighten me. I also need to upgrade my fuel system.
Ugh I feel lost when it comes to the exact sizes of this and that. Once you deviate from stock size I go clueless. Plus I've never gone into the bottom end of an engine (aside from cam swap). Once all the parts are decided on, I may have a shop here in Houston do the final assembly on the bottom end because I want it dont right (Dont trust myself I guess)
Thanks everyone for your input. I'm sure I left needed info out, just ask. Also, if anyone in the Houston are needs a wrench hand on their FI car, I'd love to help out and hopefully learn a thing or two. Thanks again.
). I decided to just get a 6.0 LS2 block and upgrade from there. It came with a modified crank for use with the ls1 sensor. I'm new to both the 6.0 and to an LS2.Plans for the motor: Forged bottom end, stock crank, lower compression for FI; I'm still debating on the method of FI.. love turbo but dont want to lose AC or have pipes under the K-Member so I might go S/C, then I can keep my long tubes and exhaust note aswell. I have ported heads that I'll be taking off and getting flow tested. I'm getting a fast 90 mm intake manifold aswell.
Goals: I'd like to be in the 700-800hp range once it's all said and done and have the car be reliable as a DD.
Money: is an object to a point. I'd rather not spend $1000 on something that I can get for $800 that is just as good if not better(for example, Wiseco pistons instead of Diamond). When its for those 'added insurance' deals, I'd rather be safe then sorry.
So: What would ya'll suggest I fill the short block with in regards to pretty much everything, from brand to size. I know a good automotive machine shop aswell if that makes things easier. Also, would it be a good idea to go ahead and get a new (bmr or similar) K-member? If so, which mounts? I planned on replacing my existing mounts with poly ones when doing the swap. I'm also not sure which parts will transfer (oilpump, pushrods, lifters, heads, headers, ect) from my existing motor, please enlighten me. I also need to upgrade my fuel system.
Ugh I feel lost when it comes to the exact sizes of this and that. Once you deviate from stock size I go clueless. Plus I've never gone into the bottom end of an engine (aside from cam swap). Once all the parts are decided on, I may have a shop here in Houston do the final assembly on the bottom end because I want it dont right (Dont trust myself I guess)
Thanks everyone for your input. I'm sure I left needed info out, just ask. Also, if anyone in the Houston are needs a wrench hand on their FI car, I'd love to help out and hopefully learn a thing or two. Thanks again.
05-17-2007, 04:03 PM
#2
Well Save the $1000 and don't get a Fast intake and Keep your LS6 or get an LS6 for $300.
As far as everything you are replacing. All your gaskets Oil pump and lifters are a good idea while it is apart. Go with head studs over bolts. I have my motor out and at the machine shop right now. I decided to go with a new cam as well while it is apart.
As far as everything you are replacing. All your gaskets Oil pump and lifters are a good idea while it is apart. Go with head studs over bolts. I have my motor out and at the machine shop right now. I decided to go with a new cam as well while it is apart.
05-17-2007, 04:32 PM
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Already have a ported ls6 pump, good to know it will carry over. Also have studs on my other block so I'll be carrying those over too.
I'm on my 3rd or 4th cam, haha.
So you're saying a ls6 intake would work better than a fast? Or just the gain is minimal. I'm still running a stock ls1 inake and throttle body (no ported). I figured going to a 90mm intake and tb would be a good idea.. plus as far as I know the Fast flows the best aside from a ...l92 I think. I dunno.
I'm on my 3rd or 4th cam, haha.
So you're saying a ls6 intake would work better than a fast? Or just the gain is minimal. I'm still running a stock ls1 inake and throttle body (no ported). I figured going to a 90mm intake and tb would be a good idea.. plus as far as I know the Fast flows the best aside from a ...l92 I think. I dunno.
05-17-2007, 05:03 PM
#4
Tha gain from the fast is minimal and because of the two peice design they have had some issuse with FI. Most FI guys are running either an LS6 of going to a carb style intake with a elbow.
You will need new studs for an LS2 block. 97-03 has uses the same head bolts buut newer blocks have a different setup so you will beed different head studs
You will need new studs for an LS2 block. 97-03 has uses the same head bolts buut newer blocks have a different setup so you will beed different head studs
05-18-2007, 04:52 AM
#7
I am using Callies compstar rods and Diamond Pistons. They seem to be a pretty popular choice.
Also just so yout know with the LS2 motor you will need a different front cover and timing set to relocate your cam sensor and your knock sensors will get relocated too
Also just so yout know with the LS2 motor you will need a different front cover and timing set to relocate your cam sensor and your knock sensors will get relocated too
Trending Topics
05-18-2007, 05:40 AM
#8
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=686
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=683
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=721
It more cubes are wanted, here is the crank I would use.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1078
Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=683
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=721
It more cubes are wanted, here is the crank I would use.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1078
Bob
05-18-2007, 03:34 PM
#9
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I'm glad I didn't change my timing set (aside from chain) last cam swap. Is the stock ls1 harness long enough for the sensor relocating or will I need to run an extension? Now would probably be a good time to invest in a two piece timing cover.
EPP. Thanks loads for the links. I'm already upping the cubes by going with the ls2 block over the ls1, but it's a DD so no need to up it anymore than that.. to me anyways. Those Compstar rods look like a fantastic piece, how much machining is needed to get everything together properly? Also nice that they come with the ARP2000s, less I have to buy. Also, the piston's say they're for ls1 h2 hummer.. I'm assuming that it's interchangable, but just thought I'd double check. Like I said, I'm clueless with which parts will fit properly and switch over no problems.
What about main bearings, caps, bolts and also piston rings?
Thanks
EPP. Thanks loads for the links. I'm already upping the cubes by going with the ls2 block over the ls1, but it's a DD so no need to up it anymore than that.. to me anyways. Those Compstar rods look like a fantastic piece, how much machining is needed to get everything together properly? Also nice that they come with the ARP2000s, less I have to buy. Also, the piston's say they're for ls1 h2 hummer.. I'm assuming that it's interchangable, but just thought I'd double check. Like I said, I'm clueless with which parts will fit properly and switch over no problems.
What about main bearings, caps, bolts and also piston rings?
Thanks
05-18-2007, 03:50 PM
#10
Diamond > Wiseco
LS6 intake > Fast 90 (when it comes to boost and power at the level your talkiong about)
I personally consider head studs a necessity at that power level. Main studs are a very good idea also. Some eagle H beam rods with good bolts are plenty of rod, you dont need anything crazy. Speed inc has proven them in their 370 iron block thats boosted and put down 1001RWHP and has gone high 8s with them.
Heres my setup im building now. 6.0 iron block, .030 over, diamond pistons, diamond pro-select rings, eagle rods with L19 bolts, stock crank, main and head studs, stock LQ9 heads (unported) and im going to max out a D1SC and spray on top of it too most likely. Looking for 900+ at the crank on spray.
Theres 2 or 3 good choices for bearings. Personally like clevite.
LS6 intake > Fast 90 (when it comes to boost and power at the level your talkiong about)
I personally consider head studs a necessity at that power level. Main studs are a very good idea also. Some eagle H beam rods with good bolts are plenty of rod, you dont need anything crazy. Speed inc has proven them in their 370 iron block thats boosted and put down 1001RWHP and has gone high 8s with them.
Heres my setup im building now. 6.0 iron block, .030 over, diamond pistons, diamond pro-select rings, eagle rods with L19 bolts, stock crank, main and head studs, stock LQ9 heads (unported) and im going to max out a D1SC and spray on top of it too most likely. Looking for 900+ at the crank on spray.
Theres 2 or 3 good choices for bearings. Personally like clevite.
Last edited by BIG BAD BLACKSS; 05-18-2007 at 04:11 PM.
05-23-2007, 02:07 PM
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You can find the average weights here:
Compstar Rod Weights
They will vary slightly from batch to batch, but not much.
Nick
Compstar Rod Weights
They will vary slightly from batch to batch, but not much.
Nick